This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
On 11/02/2020 I started my car, warmed it up and then started driving. I noticed that the car shook and pulled when switching gears from 1st to second and seemed to want to stall. Also, when breaking the car wanted to keep accelerating. This is the second time this happens in a matter of a year.
While going from a stop to accelerating, my vehicle shutters and will attempt to stall. I have had this car almost cause multiple serious accidents and every time I take it the dealership (5 times) they tell me its the manual transmission assembly clutch. They say that Ford is aware of the issue but there is no permanent fix for it. I have myself and 2 very young children to worry about while driving, not to mention the safety of others. Also while driving at any steady speed, the car will randomly rev up sometimes going from 2000 rpms to over 4000 rpms.
I was driving on I95 around 330pm when my oil light came on, and I noticed that my vehicle started to loose power. I was able to continue to the exit when another prompt came up and stated service engine soon. When I got to the light I was able to stop turned the vehicle off and restarted the car, the vehicle started but it was a ruff start the same prompts came on along with a new one it was the check engine light. The vehicle was still not getting much power the car moved for another few miles and then completely stopped running. I was able to get off the road safely, and called a tow truck and had the car towed to my mechanic shop. I was told the the engine was blown it is 2017 vehicle with 94000 miles and I regularly had it served at the dealership where I bought it. I still owe on it and will now have to pay for a new engine to be put in this vehicle. I had read where the same vehicle had this same problem and wanted to share my experience with others. I had no other problems with this vehicle before this issue happened. Thank you
The contact owns a 2017 Ford Focus. The contact stated that while making a left turn, the vehicle stalled. The contact tried to restart the vehicle and it stalled again. The vehicle was pushed off to the side of the street. The vehicle was put in neutral and pushed to the contact's home closely. The contact called the manufacturer and they arranged a tow to the dealer (uptown Ford Lincoln 2111 N mayfair rd, milwaukee, wi 53226 (414) 771-9000) but they refused to do the repair that had to do with NHTSA campaign number: 19V515000 (fuel system, gasoline) because the vehicle had a minor crash six months earlier. The dealer stated that the crash was the contact's fault and the reason the computer software malfunctioned. The manufacturer called back to deny the contact's claim. The manufacturer researched the issue and had the vehicle towed to another dealer who stated same as the first dealer that the vehicle was not covered under the recall. The upper management of the second dealer denied to do the recall repair because the manufacturer would not cover the repairs. The manufacturer finally sent an email denying the contact's claim. The failure mileage was 47,000.
- Milwaukee, WI, USA
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When accelerating, typically from a stopped position but not exclusively, the transmission shudders. This started happening at about 20K miles and I'm told by the Ford dealership "some shuddering is to be expected & cannot be repaired". I disagree. This is not to be expected as no other vehicle I've owned did this unless there was a mechanical problem.
User had a quarter of a tank of gas before heading home. Shortly after, user started the car and it stalled. User did not think much of it. User shut it down and turned key to the "on" position and the check engine light turned on. The car turned over and worked. Shortly after, user was driving car down the road towards his house and the engine stalled. Systems and electronics screen were on, but everything else glitched and nothing really worked, the car torque steered the user into oncoming traffic lane. User had to use E-brake to properly slow down and pull to the shoulder of the road and turn key all the way off into the "off" position. User waited 5 minutes to ensure all systems were shut down, and started car back up again to safely drive the rest of the way home. User has extended warranty and will immediately have dealership look at vehicle.
1) battery was replaced. Corrosion surrounding battery & all parts of battery. Took the car to inspection <2 months later and corrosion was just as bad. 2) have taken care in every 2-4 months since purchasing new in 2018. Upon acceleration and turning, car shakes and stutters. Each time it is taken in, there is nothing done because "it's a known problem and there's no fix."
My engine light came on while driving to work on a city street around 7:30 am on my way to work and when I got home my husband check the code was P144A for a evap purge valve. After doing some research this is a common problem with a recall just not for my vehicle.
While coming down a hill my vehicle's engine began to big down as if to stall. My engine oil light came on, I pulled into a local oil service station to have them check the oil, (previous service was approximately 1 month prior and it had only been approximately 1200 miles since last service). They said that the oil was fine but I had them change the oil again just to be sure. The oil light refused to go out. I then had the vehicle towed to the closest Ford dealership because the vehicle became unsafe and could not be drive according to the service station. After a week at the Ford dealership it was determined that the engine was no longer holding oil pressure and that various components inside the engine had now started throwing the check engine light. The dealership informant me it would be approximately $7700 to replace the engine, as the vehicle's engine is in a state of failure. The vehicle has been towed from the dealership and sitting in my driveway at 71457 miles... the dealership says that because the vehicle is 11450 miles out of warranty that there is nothing they can do. Vehicle was regularly serviced. I have read various other complaints about this year make and model having the same issue which has lead to the vehicles becoming unsafe to drive and ultimately unable to be driven.
I was coming off freeway and getting onto another freeway when, as I was speeding up to merge, my car bogged down as if running out of gas. I looked at the dash and saw my oil light had come on. So I pulled over to an exit within 30 yds. And pulled onto a street about another 30 yds. Away. I shut off the car and let it sit a few minutes then checked oil. When I did, the oil showed full. I then called the Ford dealer I take my car to for oil changes and spoke with a service guy and told him what happened. He was puzzled and asked a few questions and then we tried to reset the oil light. After doing the reset the oil light came back on. I tried starting the car and it started fine. No abnormal sounds coming from the engine and it idled fine. I decided to try the freeway again to see if the oil light was a fluke. The next exit was only a half mile away so I could easily get off freeway if necessary. Again, the freeway was only about 30 yds away so when I started to merge onto the freeway the same thing happened. The car accelerated slowly and then bogged down and the dash flashed the engine needed attention or something like that. Again I got off at the next exit, which was right there when it happened. I had the car towed to the Ford dealer near where I live. Service was closed but some sales people were still there and they told us where to put the car. They didn't look at the car until Monday and even then they didn't really open the car up and look at it. The technician said probably the timing/oil pump belt broke or shredded and clogged up the oil pump. To open up the engine would cost $800 to find out the actual problem and if the tech was right the engine would have to be replaced costing $7400. All this because of a faulty belt designed to last 125,000-150,000 miles. Luckily I wasn't driving 65mph in the middle of the freeway and breaking down and getting slammed.
Slippage with transmission on turning corners. Fluid is good on vehicle. Happens with each turn, right or left. Engine revs on turns up to pass 3 rpms. This started with the purchase of the vehicle in Aug 2019. I knew my dealer would not address it a few days after purchase.
The contact owns a 2017 Ford Focus. The contact stated that while driving at 45 mph, the oil level warning light flashed on the instrument panel. The contact pulled the vehicle over and inspected the vehicle but found no issues with the vehicle. The contact called perry Ford of poway (12740 poway rd, poway, ca 92064, (858) 748-1400) and spoke with a representative who attempted to assist with the warning light failure. The contact was unable to reset the warning light and attempted to resume normal driving however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed to the same dealer but was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the contact was informed that the vehicle was out of warranty. No further assistance was provided. The failure mileage was 68,000. Mechanic told the consumer there were isssues with timing/oil pump belt (located inside the engine) broke/shred. Oil pressure dropped and pieces of belt clogged oil pump and also circulated through the engine. Engine needs replacement. Estimated cost: $7100.
Purchased vehicle 2017 Ford Focus SE 03/2019 by August 2019 my check engine light came on and my car just start stopping suddenly out know were and when I put gas in the car it jumps and take some time to start back up not clear why this was happening went and got a smoke detector test and it was discovered I had an evap/mission problem. I noticed that it was a recall on this same issue in the same year I purchased the car and my car is not consider on the recall.
Gas pedal gets stuck when moving forward. I have to get underneath the pedal and return it back to neutral spot with my toes. Engine jerks when fuel gets to 1/4 tank. Once after a trip to the grocery store, gas pedal stayed stuck after placing it in park. RPM's were above 2000.
Every 6 months my check engine light comes on for example it been on since 5/11/2020 every time I put gas in crack up it shakes and cuts off you have to raise the motor the obd reads bank too lean 2 & 1.
On our way back from Florida I smelt burning coolant I looked and it was low so I filled it up as we were down the street from our house the smell got worse I attempted to accelerate and the car shook, the transmission warning then came on and I lost steering control and power I pulled over safely and tried to restart the vehicle and would not start. I popped the hood and there was coolant all over the motor and transmission. 2 hr later the vehicle still won't even turn over.
I was accelerating from a stop sign when the car didn't want to go forward, the rpms just idled as the engine revved but I couldn't drive forward, then the vehicle lunges forward, as if the transmission was stuck in neutral. After it jumped forward it began making a terrible grinding noise and lost control, almost driving straight into another car. I then proceeded to pull over and turned off the car, then it made these loud clicking noises and the emergency transmission light flashed red and said 'transmission overheating, stop and turn off the engine.' I left the car sit for 2 am hour, then went to turn it on and it would not start. It only made the ticking noise again. After trying to start it 3 times, it finally turned on, but continued to get stuck as the car would not move even though it was in drive. The next day I took it to the dealership but as I left my house and got on the freeway, the vehicle started rolling backwards on the inclined on-ramp even though it was in drive. Oncoming traffic swerved around my immobile car as I panicked and floored the gas petal. It finally lunged forward, seconds before a semi came barreling through the lane. I got it to the dealer as it flashed the transmission overheating light. The check engine light was on as well each time. The car had already been serviced 4 times prior to this, for transmission issues and multiple recalls. Each time I took it to get serviced, it got worse. When I finally picked it up, I couldn't even get it home because it broke down half a mile away. The dealerships service department refused to do any repairs to the vehicle even though the transmission failed and nearly killed me. They printed me the papers stating the clutch, actuators a & B, the T/O bearing, and another part need to be replaced and it will cost me $1800. In other words, I have to pay them just so I don't die in Ford faulty car
The contact owns a 2017 Ford Focus. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to gene latta Ford Inc 1565 carlisle St, hanover, pa 17331 to be diagnosed. The contact was informed the a solenoid needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 52,000.
A few months ago, my car started to shake (in a jerking, forward and back motion), and struggle to accelerate. It would make this noise, like gears grinding. I took it to the dealership to get it fixed under warranty, and they replaced the clutch. For about a week, it was fine. Then it started to do the same thing again. It will jerk back and forth when I accelerate from a complete stop (at a stoplight for example). Recently, I have been losing gas very quickly because it will go all the way past 4rpms just to get from 0-20mph. I'm not sure if the warranty is still on it, but it only has 12,000 miles on it. I have only made one very big trip with it, to Kansas and back to Virginia. It does this off and on every single time I drive it. I have to drive anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour for work, so this is really not convenient to have. Multiple times I was worried it would break down as I struggled to keep it from overdoing itself while accelerating. A few times, I could smell something like exhaust in the vents. This has been happening over the course of 6 months and has only gotten worse, even after taking it to the dealership, and having them tell me it was "fixed."
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Reading, PA, USA