I was driving down the highway when I noticed that I could no longer accelerate. I coasted to a stop, the car shaking as it came to a stop. I placed the car in park, turned the car off, and restarted. It started up fine, and then it happened again about 10 minutes later. After a mechanic was unable to duplicate the problem, I thought it was perhaps "bad gas" and moved on. Two weeks later, it happened twice, once stopping me in the middle of a busy intersection (because this time I wasn't going 60mph this time). The diagnosis from Ford: A faulty throttle body sensor. The car is barely three years old, it has a significant defect (not caused by wear-and-tear or user-error), but it is not covered under their warranty. The mechanic at Ford says that they see a lot of these situations. They are grossly negligent in not warning families and offering to fix their mistakes by replacing the bad throttle body components.

- Land O Lakes, FL, USA

I stopped the car to close the gas fill lid, engine running, went to get back in and all doors were locked, they locked themselves. It was over 90 degrees out, lucky I had my cell phone to call my wife to bring her keys so I could get back in. If my grandkids had been the car, it could have been a scary problem.

- Laporte, IN, USA

Throttle control is defective. I have read several complaints about the same issue. The throttle control goes bad and then the car will abruptly lose power and stop in traffic. We were lucky that we weren't on the interstate when this happened. In order to move you have to put the car in park and shut it off and turn it back on. I had to have mine replaced yesterday. The car is only two years old and only has 50,000 miles on it.

- Augusta, GA, USA

While traveling on the expressway with the cruise control on my engine returned to idle speed and there was no response from the accelerator pedal. I had to coast to a stop on the shoulder, put the car in park, shut it off, and restart it. The next day this happened again twice, the check engine light came on, I read the code and it was P2112 throttle actuator control system stuck shut. I did some research and there are apparently some known problems with the throttle body assembly. My car is out of warranty and the dealer told me this part isn't covered under the extended emissions warranty. I was lucky that this didn't happen while I was turning or merging into traffic.

- Grand Rapids, MI, USA

Driving at 65mph in traffic on a state highway when the vehicle failed to respond to the accelerator. Vehicle went to approximately 750 RPM and there was no speed control. This failure occurred without any warning as I was passing another car and required me to take evasive action to avoid collision. Dealership says it was throttle body control unit and that there are "known problems".

- Eagan, MN, USA

On multiple occasions the car will just lose all throttle response, the car is still running, but will not accelerate. I have to find some place to pull over and shut the car off. Then restart the engine and then it will run good. The issue happens sometimes up six times in one day, and then you can go a week without an issue. I have seen this issue with speeds as low as 20 mph all the way up to 70 mph. From what I have read online it would appear to possibly be due to a defective throttle body. Apparently this throttle body uses a servo to open and close the butterfly that allows air into the intake manifold. I feel this could be a very dangerous problem especially if you are driving and it loses the ability to accelerate and you can not find a safe place to pull over to restart the car.

- Wedgefield, SC, USA

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph with the air conditioner activated, the engine stalled and immediately the warning indicator began to illuminate. The vehicle was coasted to the side of the road and after waiting a few moments, the vehicle restarted. The failure occurred four times when driving at various speeds with the air conditioner activated. The vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 45,000.

- Frederickburg, VA, USA

I went for an oil change and local center. The rep requested I come over to the car and see something. The battery acid covered the entire top of battery. It metalized the cables corroded the battery pan. The car is 2 years old and 22K miles. All were replaced by Ford under the warranty. I would not normally complain about a battery but this is my second Ford to have the same issue. I had Ford edge prior which the same thing happened but I was past 36K in miles so they considered it wear and tear. I had to replace all wire, battery pan, and battery. Ford needs to review the battery manufacturer they are using in there new cars.

- North Plainfield, NJ, USA

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion with a four cylinder engine. While driving to work, I started speeding up from an intersection, only to experience a complete and total loss of power, the wrench light came, the engine started misfiring (rough idle at less than 550 RPM), but all systems where still working. Pressing the gas pedal produced no results. I was able to pull off the side of the road, stop the engine, let the car sit for about 15 seconds, and then restarted it. When the engine restarted, the car started up and ran like nothing had happened. Yesterday (June 1st), the Fusion did the exact same thing, except this time I was pulling into an intersection (approximately 5 miles per hour). I had a catastrophic loss of power, the wrench light came on again, the engine was misfiring (rough idle), the rest of the systems continued working. Luckily no one was coming in my direction and I was able to pull off the road into a parking lot, stop the car, and then restart it. I took it to the dealer today and they diagnosed it as needing a new throttle body. They quoted the price and labor at $400 for the repair. I've had this car less than 1 year and it only has 49,800 miles on it. If I had been pulling onto a busy street and experienced the same loss of power, it could have been a much more dangerous situation. According to my research, this is a common problem with the 2010 Ford Fusion, and the replacement part has been "redesigned" according to the dealer where I took my car for repair.

- Lexington, KY, USA

I was driving on a 6 or 8 lane freeway when it suddenly downshifted to a much lower gear (probably 3rd) and the tachometer maxed at 7000 RPM and held there until I manually moved the shift lever to neutral. When I put it back in drive (still moving) it again raced to 7000 RPM and I put it in neutral and coasted to the side of the road. I put it in all the gears, then in drive and went back on the freeway. It stayed in 1st gear and I again went to the shoulder of the road. I shut the engine off, restarted it and got back on the freeway. It shifted ok, but after a few miles did it again. I sent my complaint to Ford Motor Company, but they say they can't duplicate the actions and therefore can not/will not do anything about it. (see Ford customer service case #0506021830 and my letter to them)

- Fayette, IA, USA

Bought my Fusion in April 2011. Began having problems immediately. Usually happens when the engine is cold, upon accelerating the car would lurch terribly and hesitate. First the dealer could find nothing wrong. Then they decided it was the transmission. Put new transmission in. Kept happening. Finally, it happened when the service manager drove it. Said Ford would put new computer in the car. Six weeks later since we heard nothing back, took the car to the sales rep and he said don't come get it until we fix it. Today my husband is back at the dealer to get me another car. They act like I am imagining all this. I am ready for an arbitrator!

- Millbrook, AL, USA

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Fusion hybrid. The contact stated that during routine maintenance, the dealer advised that the high voltage cable for the hybrid generator and battery was worn down to bare metal. The manufacturer was contacted but the vehicle was not repaired. The VIN was unavailable. The failure and the current mileage was 36,453.

- North Bend, WA, USA

While driving down a major highway at 69 mph with the cruise control on, the car just lost power. I first noticed the headlights went out, then saw the anti theft light illuminate. I tried depressing the gas pedal, but got nothing. Thankfully, I was able to coast out of the passing lane, into the right lane, and eventually to the side of the road without any tragedy. Once along the roadside, I put the car in park and turned the key to shut off mode. I then turned it back on, car started up fine. I took it to my regular mechanic, his code reader found nothing. Took it to the dealership I bought it from, they found nothing. It is now at a Ford dealership, but my guess is they will find nothing. I am on the road at least 4 out of 5 days a week on major highways. I cannot afford for this to happen again. I may not be so lucky next time.

- Wind Gap, PA, USA

Transmission keeps on lurching forward and dealership cannot do anything about it now. It's a safety issue for me as I almost got into an accident on the street due to huge jump. Transmission keeps on acting up and dealer keeps saying everything is fine and cannot duplicate the other since the time they rebuilt the transmission on my vehicle.

- Rochester Hills, MI, USA

I was stopped at a traffic light, it turned green and stepped on the gas pedal and the car immediately started to rough idle, the wrench indicator lit up and would not move forward. There was minimal response to throttle input. I was able to pull off the road out of traffic to a safe spot. I left the car running to see what was going on. The tachometer was fluctuating mainly downward as it idled rough. After about two minutes I turned off the motor. I made a few phone calls and while calling roadside assist decided to try and start the car. It started and I went straight to the dealership. As fate would have it, the dealership could not duplicate the concern and was not able to pinpoint the cause. They were kind enough to suggest replacing the throttle body and motor assembly. It cost me $512.38. Needlessto say I am not at all happy with this issue. This issue could have occurred in a more dynamic setting, heavy traffic, lane change or merging, etc, potentially causing threat to my life and that of others. This issue needs to be addressed by the manufacturer in my opinion.

- Boynton Beach, FL, USA

While driving on interstate I-81 the dash lights started going completely off and staying off for quite sometime before coming back on. I was not really sure if I had headlights until later when stopping behind someone on my destination and was able to see my headlights in their rear car. The weather was horrible, raining very hard and visibility was really only a few feet away. I turn on my fog lights just in case I had no headlights. I had hoped they work but I did not get out in the pouring rain to check. Fortunately, this incident was during the daytime and not at night. This could have lead to a fatal accident if it was at night. I feel that others should be aware of this problem and Ford should take care of it with no cost to owner. Also the spots on the charcoal dash should be dealt with by Ford because there is some reason other than sunlight or cleaner that has cause this, for I have only clean dash with a damp cloth and the car has been garage kept except for the time it spent on the dealership lot. There are many complaints on the charcoal dash on the Ford Fusion online. The dealership service department was very rude when I ask about this problem and seem to care less about their customers on this behalf and accuse me of using some type of harse cleaner on it...would not even listen to what I had to say. Lets hope that Ford stays behind their customers with problems on the Fusion since it does have some problems.

- Dandridge, TN, USA

As I was passing another vehicle, the vehicle lost power and a warning light illuminated telling me to pull over immediately. Luckily I was able to make it to the side of the highway. The codes pulled were P0010, P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204. The dealer checked the electrical connections and reassembled. The issue happened again on 5/30/11 as I was driving on the highway. The same codes as the first incident was found with an additional code of P1A03. Again the dealer checked the electrical connections and reassembled. I feel this is a safety issue because when you are driving along on the highway the cars around you do not expect you to dramatically slow down. If you manage to safely make it to the side of the road without being in an accident or causing an accident you still face another safety issue being stuck on the side of the road with traffic going by at 65 mph.

- State College, PA, USA

While driving at various speeds, the vehicle's engine would shutdown and all power assist features would be disengaged. The check engine, check traction control, check oil pressure, check temperature, and low fuel warning messages would illuminate. The vehicle suffered from these symptoms approximately 13 times over the course of 1000 miles ultimately resulting in several evasive maneuvers to avoid collisions caused by the lack of engine power. The vehicle spent 27 days in the shop and ultimately the main ECM was replaced. The symptoms have since ceased, but I am concerned that they may start again since the system failures seemed to increase with 100+ degree ambient air temperatures.

- San Antonio, TX, USA

After driving about 1.5 miles from home, my wife came to a set of lights and stepped on the brake to stop. The brake pedal went nearly to the floor and several dash lights came on including the brakes & anti-swerve. The vehicle slowed to a stop as she entered the intersection. Fortunately 2 things were in her favor, there was no one ahead of her and there was no cross traffic at the light. Either could have resulted in an accident. She drove the vehicle back home since she considered that the brakes had failed and she may not be able to stop the vehicle. She called me. I told her to call the dealership. She left the vehicle running thinking that perhaps as it warmed up it would work and tested it several times over an hour's time in the driveway. She pulled out the car's manual to see if there was anything listed regarding the brake failure. She read in another part of the manual about resetting the car's computer by shutting off the engine. When she restarted the vehicle, the dash lights went out and brakes returned to normal. The dealer said they "never heard of this problem" and said the earliest they could see the vehicle was 5 days later. We dropped the vehicle off the night before with a description of what was experienced. The dealer said they "could not verify the concern" and Ford does not provide any guidance regarding the issue. I was able to find quite of few instances by simply doing a "google" search including a video by 'consumer reports' who experienced the exact same problem. Ford assured them it was a 'software' issue and claimed that all 2010 Fusion hybrid owners would be notified to have the software updated. My car was a newer model 2010 and apparently not under this notification since we did not receive anything from Ford. The 'Ford customer care' suggested taking the vehicle to another dealer for service who said, "there is nothing we can do."

- Appleton, WI, USA

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Fusion. The contact stated that the reprogramming of the computer for shift modification was affecting the overall fuel mileage and performance of the vehicle. The contact informed the dealer who was not willing to address the issue and ignored the failure. The vehicle had not been repaired. The current mileage was 32,000 and the failure mileage was 14,000. Updated 04/15/11 the transmission was replaced. Updated 11/18/11

- Redlands, CA, USA