This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
This is the 3rd time this has happened since purchasing this vehicle. Purchased on 7/27/24. The previous 2 times it resolved itself and the vehicle started and ran with no apparent issues afterwards.1st was on 8/05/24, 2nd was on 10/14/24. On this 3rd and current time I went to start the vehicle and vehicle would not start. The lights and radio work but the vehicle did not start. Only displayed a stop safely now message on the instrument panel. This is one of my worse fears happening as I type this. I'm stranded with a vehicle that will not start and my father is on his death bed with no way to get to him....
I was driving around 35-40mph, slowing down, heading to a right hand turn lane. No vehicles in front of me. As I crossed over my lane into the turn lane my e-brake automatically came on and my pre collision braking light came on. No warning, nothing caused by me, and I have no clue how it happened. I had to physically pull the e-brake lever to release the brakes on a major road.
on January 20, 2024 I serviced my F-150 due to a malfunction. The DTC code came back as P0A1E-00. This is for the Starter/Generator Control Module. The belt and starter were reaplaced. The code appeared again on 12/21/24 2 times, 12/25/24, 12/26/24 2 times. I brought this back to the dealer on 12/19/2024. 12/26/2024, 12/27/2024. Somehow there was a TSB which I cannot acces that information, but this mentioned to test the battery. My battery failed. I paid for the diagnostics and battery. Then 3 hours later on 12/26 my Tuck went into a powersave mode. This time I brought it back on 12/27/2024, and got a call form the dealer on 12/31 that the replacement battery was defective. This was replaced. I am trying to find out why my battery died after only 2 years. Also since my DTC is related to the charging system, this could ptentially damage my battery. And they also replaced it with a defective battery. Ironically, there is a current recall of over 20,000 batteries being defective from Ford. I mentioned all of this to dealer and Ford directly, and no one can give me a straight answer of what it says to fix my issue.
The daytime running light on my headlights is an LED strip that completely lost all use. Ford is having us replace the whole headlight unit for their manufacture issue. Ford refuses a fix and says a $1700 replacement headlight unit is the only way to get it fixed. It is their headlight components for the LED daytime running light.
Extreme corrosion on connector for headlamp assembly and front camera. Also, extreme corrosion on connector that powers lightbar. Ford denied warranty claim by considering it a lamp issue even though lamp was good. The lightbar and connector w/ corrosion are one single part. Corrosion was so bad multiple pins had rusted off. This could cause electrical short and potential fire risk.
- West Fargo, ND, USA
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I am constantly receiving error messages that pop up while driving telling me that there is a headlight system malfunction. I have also had adaptive cruise control lane. Keep assist and associated features.Uh pop up as error warnings. My headlights are cornering headlights while driving. They have failed by moving to the downward and inward position and stayed in that position, significantly reducing my visibility. My alarm constantly goes off for no reason. While driving, the speaker system makes a very loud noise. That almost sounds like a gunshot.Hitting the windshield, which is extremely frightening and will cause you to jerk in response. I have taken this back to the dealership five times trying to get this diagnosed, and it still cannot be fixed. I have asked that this be considered a lemon. Due to covid, my diagnostic time was pushed back beyond the one year mark, so I was not able to get the first diagnosis until after mao one year of owning the vehicle.
While driving my entire dashboard went off. No speedometer, No Tach, No fuel gauge, No odometer, nothing. Replaced appropriate fuse still out. Vehicle has just over 36,000 miles
Ford has an outstanding Technical Service Bulletin (24-2039) that they have not notified me in a timely manner. If they had done so, it was have been replaced by Ford at their expense, either as part of bumper to bumper warranty or as a recall. Instead, the only way to find error is to have Service department run a system wide check. Ford dealer technician also feels its should be part of a recall. It's an expensive repair, $655 to replace the DC/AC inverter. This should be a recall item and notices should go to car owners.
My rear passenger side window will not go back up. It is constantly receiving power to pull the roll the window down. This is a known problem in the community. If you visit any Ford F-150, Explorer, or Maverick forum, there are post about work arounds on how to get the window up and temporarily get the window to stay up until the part comes in to repair it the correct way. Many of the people are posting that it is a known problem and the Dealerships are just "Yeah, we know, the parts are on back order, we can get you scheduled when it comes in". My argument is that if it is a known issue, why is the Manufacturer waiting until the owner reports it to perform the repair. Especially, because due to the constant power being applied, it could burn up the power window motor, safety interlocks for auto up/down, or if the materials get too hot eventually causing other electrical issues. From what I have found online it appears to be a known problem affecting mainly 2021-2022 year model vehicles.
Three warnings light up: Antilock Brake Fault, Hill Start Assist Warning, and Pre-Collision Assist Not Available. Brakes failed. I was fortunate that no one was in front of me but the truck barely stopped. Took full pedal to the floor to force lockup. I am filing the matter as it does appear to be a frequently occurring concern in 2021 and 2022 models based on what I have read to date.
The contact owns a 2022 Ford F-150. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle went into sleep mode. The error message was displayed that the battery was low. While opening the door at night, there were no interior lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who informed the contact that the vehicle was working as designed. The dealer tested the battery and determined that the battery was working as designed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to another local dealer and the NHTSA Hotline. The failure mileage was approximately 15,000.
I have a 2022 Ford F-150 Platinum with B&O Sound system. Yesterday, while driving I experienced a loud boom followed by loud staticky crackling sounds coming from the sound system. I thought I had been hit by another vehicle or somebody had thrown something at the car. I stopped immediately to see if glass was broken and got out of vehicle for fear it was going to burn or blow up. The crackling sound continued even after turning off the sound system and turning off the vehicle. The crackling continued for approximately 30 minutes. This morning, I started the car and the crackling sound was not present. This is a safety issue because it caused me to be alarmed and behave in abrupt manner to get out of the car, and may have even caused hearing damage.
I started my 2022 F150 with B/O Audio and an extremely loud blast that sounded like a cannon shot out of the speakers. My volume dial didn't work and loud crackling and popping sounds were coming out of the tweeter speakers. This has been reported many times already. Turning the audio and the entire vehicle off did nothing. Crackling actually would continue when vehicle was turned all the way off for at least 2 minutes, which would indicate some power was still being fed to the speakers for some reason. No warning lamps/messages appeared.
Instrument cluster screen goes completed black while driving. This happened once every couple months. Turning off the car and restarting it seems to fix the issue.
When looking under the vehicle we noticed that Ford came up with a poor design when it comes to road debris and Snow/Ice conditions in regards to sealing up the main battery connections/terminals. With normal driving on freezing days there is nothing to keep water/snow from building up on top of the "Skid plate" for the front of the battery compartment. This might be the worst attempt at covering or trying to protect a very expensive battery system from the elements. With a system such as the Lightning, we recommend a full custom skid plate replacement from the front of the front drive axle to the crossmember at the front of the battery tray.. This will involve numerous hours of work to confirm fitment and keep them as tight to the frame as possible. We also recommend trying to resolve the gaps in the wheel well opening where debris (mud/snow/water) from everyday driving can have a chance to get through the openings and again pile up onto major battery wiring components.
I-??ve had 11 times back at the dealer to fix my airbag, pre-collision and battery. Ford can-??t figure out the solution and keeps throwing parts at it. Already replaced my computer, computers, my wiring, harnesses, my charge port, my wiring harness for the charge port, my seat cushion for the airbags. Ford no longer knows how to fix the problem And is leaving the truck in the backyard for over six weeks now. I-??m seeing multiple people having the same problem and Ford doesn-??t know how to fix the problem even though they-??ve reset my modules and replace them. Ford hotline doesn-??t know how to solve the problem either so they-??re just resetting The code and telling customers to get back in their vehicle. I found out that Ford wanted me to drive my truck for a month with a code reader with no airbags, hoping that they could find the problem but I told them no and when I said that they said I-??ve already been driving it for months even though they never fix the problem Not knowing if I had airbags. Ford is willingly putting people in vehicles with no airbags, hoping the problem is fixed, but they don-??t know what-??s causing the problem and I-??m not the only person I know five other people with the same problem.
Another Ford F150 Supercrew leak from the front cowling area into the passenger floorboards. This is a 2022 Hybrid F150 Supercrew built during COVID and purchased March 9, 2022. There are too many reports online of leaks due to lack of sealing components where large aluminum parts meet. For example the fender and the cowling area. This particular leak is having a dealership spend 17 book hours at $215 per hour plus parts to fix a defect in workmanship. Ford is offering to partailly pay for the fix since the vehicle is 6000 miles out of warranty. The fact it is a defect in workmanship is not a consideration. It was never sealed. Thank you
While driving A/C unit will slowly stop blowing cold air. It is very random when this happens and the vehicle has to sit a for a while before it starts working again. Vehicle was purchase in August 2023 and the issue did not start until about 2 months ago and has now happened 4 times. First time I drover for hours before it happened, this last time I was only driving for 20 minutes. I think this is related to the Ford TBS 22-2089. I am just over the 36,000 mile Warranty, but under the 3 year Ford Warranty, so I will probably have to pay for this out of pocket. This should be a recall for affected vehicles as this is a very expensive fix to have on a 2 year old truck that was no fault of the owners.
This complaint was already documented here: NHTSA ID Number: 11487857 Turned my truck on to hear a LOUD pop, scared everyone inside. Speakers continued to crackle and pop, at a lower volume. No audio or music played. Thinking it would go away, I continued out of our neighborhood. When it didn't, I stopped and turned the truck off, as well as locking the vehicle, with the same crackling noise coming from the speakers despite everything being shut off. Turned the truck back on and went through audio settings. The only thing that made it stop was switching from "Stereo" to "Surround" mode in the settings.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Madill, OK, USA