This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
On 2/19/2024 i exited my vehicle and heard a popping noise. At that time I couldn't figure out where the noise came from. After existing the vehicle I attempted to close the door, unfortunately the door would not close property. It was clicking and the entire door wouldn't align properly without closing. when opening the door it also opens and hangs. Also the window does not roll more that 25% down and stops. Do if impact on either side, or a fire in the vehicle would prevent someone to escape I went to the internet and started researching the issue. I found many same model and year vehicles have the same issue. The issue is the 3 spot welds that hold the door fail and at the time of failure break the control arm that connects the door.
hi, I don't feel secure anymore driving this car with this fire recall, what can I do? Nobody want to buy that car with this failure. Best Regards [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
So there is multiple issues with my vehicle. First: I had the recall issue with the fuel injector "fixed" as the dealer stated. Now CO2 is leaking into my cabin when the car is parked and/ or when the remote start is activated. You can not breathe. I bought this car because I have 2 boys in car seats still. It is a serious hazard for anyone that breathes it in, especially kids. Second: after pumping gas it chugs. Like it will try to crank up but can't. I have had this car for less than a year. After the dealership "fixed" the fuel injector this issue started. When it finally starts the car smells strongly of gas. Third: there was a recall on a hose that had to do with the A/c system. It leaked onto wires and caused a shortage in my whole electrical system which in turn caused the vehicle to shut down on me while I was driving on the interstate. Fourth: The blind spot warning goes crazy when you are driving down a road with no one beside you. Fifth: The lane keeping assistant has completely stopped working. I have reset the system and it still will not work. Sixth: the radio, bluetooth, sound system does not work because of the water that leaked onto the wires from the A/C pipe that was recalled. Now my biggest issue is that the dealership that I purchased the vehicle from tried to charge me to have the recalls fixed. I had to take it to another dealership and afterwards was informed that, that specific dealership will claim to replace the recalls but not actually do the work so that way you have to come back and they can charge you for the work. Could you guys please look into this? Please call me at [XXX] in regards to the issues, so you can experience them first hand with me. Thank you so much for your time. Also if you google the problems everything i listed is a HUGE ISSUE with this vehicle but nothing is being done about it. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
* Spot Weld Joints failed on driver side door. The welds have failed. * Cannot open drivers side door due to to spot weld failure. * Dealer has seen the issue and said the only option is a new door. *Dealer has notified Ford Motor Company. I have a 5 year 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty that I purchased from Ford Motor Company. Ford told the dealer it is not a part failure so not covered under my warranty and the cost should fall back to the customer.. I was getting into my car to leave work on 2/15/2024 and when I opened the door I heard the loud popping/cracking sound.
2020 Ford Escape door welds went bad. First popping noise and then door wouldn-??t close and finally got closed and couldn-??t open. Hinges pulled out of door and left holes and then window could not be opened. I have been researching and this has been ongoing problem with Ford. I see where there were lots of recalls for this problem, but I am told my Ford isn-??t one for recall. I don-??t know why I had to pay $2,620 to have door replaced since they already knew about problem. I need help! [XXX] [XXX] [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
Ford Escape 2020 Hybrid 51,000 miles. Left front door pops and makes crunching noise when opened. The window does not go down now. just saw that repairs will be handled under customer satisfaction program. Door 'hinge' just started making noises. If FORD doesn't follow thru I will send another complaint.
UNKNOWN: I have a 2020 Ford Escape with a driver door "hinge arm" that has disconnected due to failed spot welds. The drivers window now does not operate.
Failure in the driver side front door control arm. After researching, there appears to be spot weld failures where the arm attaches to do door itself. It seems my vehicle is having the same issue. The arm completely detached from the door and was unable to close it.
The passenger front door middle hinge broke from inside the door. There are numerous online articles of this happening and causing costly repairs of the entire door instead of just the hinge, which is Ford-??s solution. Two days ago I noticed a creaking noise and thought I should spray wd40 and when I went to open my door to do this, there was a POP! And now the hinge can be moved up and down and it is also affecting the window, the window can-??t be rolled down. If there-??s an accident, this could cause someone not to be able to get out. This needs to be on ford to fix. There were no warnings of this. I can-??t take pictures of the issue without ripping my door apart and I-??m not a mechanic.
Consistent metallic cracking noise heard when opening side door. I cannot completely open the door without the door making this noise and it feels like the door could come off at ant time-??..I have to gingerly open the door on entering or exiting the vehicle. Also, the Driver side window does not completely go up and down when door is closed. Dealer diagnosed issue as: BY001 DOOR HINGE BROKEN/DAMAGED. WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED BY BODY SHOP. DAMAGE HINGE IS PUSHING INTO DOOR FRAME MESSING WITH WINDOW MECHANICS. The mileage is only at 37,835 and has only been driven for commuting to work/home, grocery shopping and very few leisure trips. It has not been in any accident or abused in any way.
The spot welds in the left front door at the check arm attachment points in the door assembly broke. It is available for inspection upon request. My safety is put at risk because the door check arm is broken and the window won-??t roll down as a result. The door has nothing to stop it from closing or opening, and if I were to require my window to roll down in the event of an accident my safety is jeopardized. This issue was confirmed at my dealership and they even provided me with a Ford memo SSM 51553 that acknowledges this problem. No one besides the dealership has inspected it yet. There were no warning lamps or messages. The issue started when the door suddenly made a loud popping noise when opened or closed, along with some resistance doing so. Then without warning the noise stopped, but now the door flings open and closed without any catching and my window will only roll down about 3 inches before stalling out. The first popping noise started three days ago, then it stopped and the door became non functioning yesterday. Dealership acknowledged this is a known issue, but Ford refuses to cover it.
Driver side door check arm sounds broken. Opened driver side door picking up dinner and it made loud popping cracking sound then felt like it dropped off hinge some so I lifted up quickly to close door. It-??s not latching properly. Inable to operate driver side window as I tried to roll window to check mail and it made a sound and stopped about half way so I pushed up and rolled it back up. Afraid to open door in the morning.
The problem appears to be related to defective spot welds at the check arm attachment point on left driver door. The window doesn't go down and the door doesn't shut all the way. Needs to be a recall ASAP before more accidents happen to everyday citizens!
Door stop check broke in cold weather. No wide swinging of door and no weight on door has occurred. Dealership is stating entire door needs to be replaced and paint matched. Charges are estimated between $2500-$3100.
The driver's side door has been making creaking and popping sounds for over a year and most recently the driver's side door window only goes down half way. Took the vehicle to the Ford dealership where the car was purchased and informed them of the problem and the SSM 50150 for 2020-2021 Escapes. After inspecting the interior of the door, they found that the check arm had detached and that what was causing the noise and the window to not be able to lower. The vehicle has 29,347 and was purchased in May 2020. They said the vehicle is out of warranty on the date (not mileage) and would not be covered although it's apparent the failure was occurring over several months.
I OWN A 2020 FORD ESCAPE. The Driver's Front Door started making a loud popping sound when opened and then it wouldn't close all of the way. It was hard to close but finally did. It kept making the popping noise louder every time it was opened and shut. Then, the Driver's Front Window failed to go down more than an inch and a half to two inches. It wouldn't roll up every time it was rolled down the couple of inches either. I took it to Mike White Ford Dealership in Coeur d'Alene, ID where I was informed that the welds on the control arm of the Driver's Door had failed and broken so the car needed to go to a body shop to be repaired. The dealership said that none of this is covered by my warranties.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Poolesville, MD, USA