This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
After only 27,000 miles the sliding door on the drivers side will not unlock/open by any means leaving it impossible to get out of the back in case off an emergency. Also the passenger side sliding door will not lock even while driving which means someone could open it while the car is moving and fall out. I believe Dodge has installed a batch of bad actuators for these doors. Searching the internet I have found this is happening a lot.
My rear sliding door's actuator has gone out on the driver's side. This was noticed when I pulled into my driveway and attempted to let my children out of the car, so it was turned off. The door is stuck in "lock" and will not open. It will not open manually, or with any of the automatic buttons. This is an extreme safety hazard in the event of an accident to my 3 underage children, and apparently has been a problem for several years. I am going to request in this description that a recall finally be issued before someone gets hurt because they are T-boned on one side and trapped in the car.
My driver side sliding door will not open. It seems to be an issue with several of these vans when I looked up a correction to it. It seems to be stuck in the lock position and wont open manually or with the fob. My 11 month old was in the vehicle and I have to climb through the car to get to him.
Without warning, the driver side power sliding door locked and would not open. The door would not unlock electrically or manually. If there had been an accident the passengers could potentially be trapped in the vehicle. The van was not moving when the door failed. It cost $1250 to repair/replace the mechanisms.
- South Bend, IN, USA
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Driver's side sliding door will not unlock or open in any way. It cannot be unlocked with keyfob, electrical unlock button, or manually pushing the lock. The door cannot be opened by pulling on the handle (inside or outside), pushing on the door open button next to interior handle, or pushing the door open button on ceiling control panel. Door is entirely unusable. The vehicle was parked in the garage overnight without any incident or interaction taking place. The door worked the evening before, then did not work in the morning.
Driver side sliding door is stuck in the closed and locked position. Will not unlock manually or by power unlock switch. No cause or symptoms observed before the failure. There was no mistreatment of the door. We always use the automatic power closure and latching. This is a safety issue. Passengers can be trapped inside the van in an accident.
I put the van in park. Got out to walk around and get a car seat & the van started moving in reverse (back up camera was not on) so I know I put it in park. The van hit another car beside me and if I was not able to stop it in time it would've hit my apartment complex because it was moving fast enough to go over the curb by itself! I watch multiple kids on a daily basis including my own and this is not safe! this situation could've ended way worse!
Driver side sliding door lock failed. Door is shut and locked and cannot be unlocked with key fob or buttons on driver's door. Door cannot be unlocked manually, slide lever will not move. Passenger sliding door lock is making loud buzzing noise when locking or unlocking and sometimes has to be locked/unlocked manually. Vehicle has not been taken to dealer yet/
Jacking the car using the manufacturers jack installed at the points indicated by the manual caused the metal rail to split. Tried three different places all within 6 inches and each time the jacking point split the metal. Metal would break after lifting the car and weight was on the jack. The jack would hold the car but the car dropped and moved each time the metal broke. Photos show the broken metal but not clearly because I spray painted it to prevent rust. Breaks are three up front and one in the back. All at the jacking points.
I was driving at 2 or 3 mph in heavy traffic on a city street and the car accelerated when I touched the brake. Pressure on the brake pedal would not stop the vehicle and it crashed into the car ahead, pushing it into the second car ahead. Eventually the rpms dropped after the collision. Fault code showed headlamp module (tipm)
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Parma, OH, USA