Used Grand Caravan, powerlocks did not work during test drive. We listed this as a required to be fixed item prior to purchase. We were told it was a fuse needing to be replaced. When we picked the vehicle up power locks were working.

A week later they failed. I removed the 20 amp IOD fuse for 30 seconds, and then the power locks began to work again. They failed again 3 days later. I removed the 20 amp IOD fuse for 1 second and they began to work again. Have a scheduled visit to dealer to update BCM module at their cost, as it was not corrected as per the purchase agreement.

Possibly addressed in Chrysler TSB 08-040-04 and 08-028-05 hopefully.

Does anyone have a real fix for this problem?

It is unreasonable to open the hood, fuse box, reset fuse, close fuse box, close hood, reset clock to get the locks to work. As well, you could be unaware that it has failed, leaving your vehicle unprotected.

I've tried removing the fuses, the BCM, battery cables....that solution works for a few days (perhaps a week) but then the problem re-surfaces....the automatic locks don't work...even stranger is that the back lift gate still works using the keyless entry but that is it. I would be curious if the person who had the switch replaced is still having problems. If anyone comes up with the solution I would love to hear it. This is my third Dodge Grand Caravan...I always thought they were good vehicles up until this one.

I purchased this vehicle used, had no idea about this problem. If I did, I would not have purchased it. The first time I mentioned, and the vehicle was under a 90 warranty the dealer re-set the computer and it worked for while. The next thing I know, while in a Walgreen's, the alarm goes off, I go out and try to see if someone is breaking into it, or or what...nothing. I cut the alarm off. When I go to leave the lock problem has returned. I just took the thing to a Dodge dealership....dumb as hell...but not too dumb to charge me for resetting the computer for $100, plus more for window regulator, that I find out is not in my extended warranty. I am some kinda happy.

This door lock issue is a PITA because the three dealers I've called for assistance know nothing or won't admit knowing anything. The only thing I've found that keeps me from taking a sledge hammer to the problem is pulling the 20 AMP IOD fuse in the fuse box under the hood. It's something that makes me very concerned due to the nature of locking the door with the key FOB remote. The lights with flash and horn will sound, but the locks don't respond. After this happened the first time and checking the fuse I fiddled with a whole host of electrical connections, checked for pinched wiring going to the door switches and nothing was obvious. I forgot to mention that the locks would not work from the manual switch on either side of the vehicle during this failure time. So, I started checking all other electrical accessories in the vehicle looking for something else that would not function; I didn't find anything. At this point, I called a dealer and another and another, but none of them had a clue. So, I started pulling random components from the fuse box under the hood seeing if any module would have some effect... the only thing in there that did anything related to the locks was the 20 amp IOD fuse. Just recently the alternator went out and I'm done with this vehicle and probably with Dodge all together. The whole process has just found it's end with me. Momma ain't happy and you all know what that means. If I could drive this thing to Chrysler's headquarters and have a stuffed shirt take this thing away for some kind of auto autopsy I would.

A little about my background... I'm an aircraft mechanic and an avionics repairman. I've worked on a whole host of crazy things on small planes up to corporate and military aircraft both mechanical and electrical. The one thing that has always been consistent is help from the manufacturer at the touch of the phone or through email. If there is a problem, the aviation industry cares about the problem and wants to fix it, document it and improve upon the design when possible. The auto industry doesn't seem to have the same level of concern. I'm not sure how to fix that, but the only connection to these problems seems to be the world wide web. I'm thankful for that anyway.

God Bless,

Darrell

Nixa, MO

Same deal. Lost power locks function at around 41k miles after nearly two years w/o a problem.

I've been pulling the battery cables (major PITA) and I've replaced the OEM battery with a brand new battery just to remove it as a possible factor.

Still no joy.

I'll inspect the BCM #1 fuse as described in this thread, but I'm not hopeful.

Can someone please post a DEFINITIVE FIX if one is found?

I can tell you right now that if I could make it a full month without the problem returning, I'd call that a resolution. Right now I'm resetting every two to four days.

Thanks for posting.

Hello out there,

Where is the BCM (body control module) located on my 2005 Caravan? I have the same old whine on my wife's van..........this thing has all kinds of electrical gremlins, the most recent of which is the power locks quite working. It also has trouble working the high beams, the wipers, the wiper/washers, we are on the 4th set of spark plugs (all platinum, by the way) and wires, they keep going bad, etc, etc. I tried the BCM #1 fuse trick, I tried the battery disconnect trick, I tried the IOD fuse trick, and none of these helped at all. Any suggestions? Is the BCM a "swap out" item (if I was to go to a salvage yard and get a used one), or is it something that, once changed out, the dealership would have to boot? I hate this vehicle and if I had known all the bullsh*t it was going to give me I would have NEVER bought it. I can understand having an occasional maintenance issue on a vehicle, that is understandable. But when you have major electrical problems (so convieniently AFTER your warranty runs out on the electrical systems), and the company will not cover the repairs when thousands of vehicles are affected, that is total bullsh*t. No matter how you look at it, you can't say it any simpler than that. Bottom line......these "creature features" that you car is equipped with (and I paid extra for these features) are also safety features, especially the wipers and the locks, and Dodge will not recall these problems, even with all of the people that are having them. God Bless America, and the monopolizing PIGS that rule it!! As far as my next car is concerned, I am looking foreign. I hate to do that, but from what I am seeing they have a much better track record than their American counterparts. Sorry about the encyclopedia that I just wrote, but I had to get this sh*t off of my chest?!?!

We had had this van for 5 months when this problem started. The remote key will not lock the doors. It will lock and unlock the back hatch but nothing else. When you push the button it will even flash the lights and honk the horn telling you that it is locking. But it doesn't. If you get inside the van and push the auto locks in there that won't lock them either. You have to manually lock the doors. At first I didn't think to much about it. But after the 3rd problem we have had with this thing I am started to get very annoyed with this Dodge.

I recently had a problem on my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan where my door locks stopped working. First trip in - My dealer recalibrated the body control module (I'm not sure what that means- I suspect he reflashed it or just pulled the fuse). Cost me $90.48 in labor. Lasted 24 hours. Same problem, this time I took it in it cost me $95.35 to tell me that I needed a new Body Control Module to the tune of $345.46. I did not have the fix done. Now the ABS light has come on. Seems like this 2005 w/45K miles is going down hill quickly. This is my first Dodge Caravan - and my last. I intend on trying the fuse reset. Has anyone changed their own BCM? Is it worth the effort, most internet activity I read - shows multiple other failures after the BCM is changed and the dealer will not warranty their work becasue they say it is electrical and all part of the diagnostic process. Can a fairly handy person do the fix? Any suggestions - other then the obvious (trade it in)? That is in the plans - just not an option right now. Thanks

Thank you so much everyone for posting this problem and solution. I had the same problem, took it to the dealership and was charged $135.00 to have "the wiring fixed." The dealer also said I may need the BCM replaced in the future. About 10,000 miles later, the electric locks were broken again!!! This time I bought a BCM from a junk yard for $55, and it fixed the problem, but the automatic side doors didn't open anymore. I figured the new BCM needed to be programmed. I looked online to find how to reprogram it and found this site. Then I just put back the old BCM, pulled the fuse and replaced it and everything works great. I'm really annoyed I spent $200 for nothing, but happy I found this page. I know a dealer would have charged me much more!!

I am very frustrated and disappointed in this vehicle! At 20,000 miles we went through 4 bleeping trips to the garage to fix an ABS sensor problem. Turned out it wasn't a sensor it was a faulty wire. At 30,000 coolant hose just mysteriously come loose. At 36,000 (yeah we barely squeaked by and it's being covered under the warranty) we have this auto door lock failure. We've had the wiring replaced in the sliding door in the passenger side, and it has now failed again in that door. The next day after returning from having the wiring fixed the check engine light came on and we now have a EBR (?) valve that needs to be replaced. Not sure the exact name but it has something do to with emissions system, and getting terrible gas mileage in the time before the part arrives... not sure how much THAT will cost, since we're 700 miles out of warranty. It really makes me think twice about that extended warranty I turned down...