This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that while in the vehicle, she noticed smoke filling the interior of the vehicle. Upon visual inspection, she noticed the smoke originating from a fire on the passenger side visor. The contact stated that she was able to extinguish the fire herself after removing the visor from the vehicle. A police or fire report was not filed. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who failed to provide a diagnosis as to the cause of the failure. The vehicle was repaired as the visor was replaced, but the failure reoccurred. ?When the failure occurred, the second visor light was blinking as the driver's side visor light was inoperable. The contact stated that the vehicle temperature gauge also increased. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer, who diagnosed an additional failure with the exhaust manifold. After investigating the failure, the contact related it to NHTSA Campaign Number?15V879000 (Electrical System, Interior Lighting), but the vehicle was not included in the recall. ?The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 134,742.
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that on several occasions while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost motive power, stalled, and failed to restart. The check engine and service traction warning lights were illuminated. The contact also stated that on various occasions she was unable to remove the key from the ignition after turning off the vehicle and that the power seat was inoperable. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic on various occasions, where the failure could not be duplicated, and the contact was advised to take the vehicle to a local dealer for further diagnostic test and repair. The vehicle was taken and towed to the local dealer on various occasions, where the failures could not be duplicated, and the vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that on various occasions, the vehicle stalled and then lost motive power. The vehicle failed to restart and was towed back to the dealer on several occasions, where it was diagnosed that the Central Body Control Modules (BCMs) remote key housing and the ignition lock cylinder needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure persisted, and the vehicle was towed back to the dealer, where the failures could not be duplicated. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 72,123.
Electrical system dies unexpectedly. Stabilitrac system alert lights up and car starts shifting like crazy. All warning lights flash and door locks and dome lights start flashing. This happens even when driving on the highway. Very dangerous and needs to be addressed immediately.
2014 Chevrolet Captiva on Friday July 8th 2022, The sun visor catch on fire from the passenger seat. The reasons still are unknown. The issue could be ending in a disaster and I have to claim this problem as fast as I can
The key keeps getting stuck in the ignition once the car is off. This prevents me from being able to leave my car unattended. I was trying to go grocery shopping and couldn't because the key wouldn't come out of the ignition for me to lock the doors. 01/04/2022. The most recent time this happened before today was about 2 weeks ago 12/21/2021. I tried starting the vehicle again and turning it off and it still wouldn't allow the key to release. My husband was able to get the key out the last after several hours. We will be scheduling an appointment with service center when an appointment becomes available to have it inspected. Based on research this has been an issue with captiva's in the past.
- Ironton, OH, USA
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When turning the ignation off, the key will not turn off, it stay's in the open position keeping the electrical part of the car from turning off, which could cause an electrial fire. I am unable to remove my key from the ignation, it makes the car battery run down, and sometimes the wires seem to get hot from this.
Key gets stuck in ignition. Lose all power WHILE DRIVING or parked! Requires a jiggle on the battery cable to restore power. Radio loses power randomly while driving. a/c shuts off. This has been happening since we bought the car in June 2021.
Key gets stuck in ignition and takes many tries to get it out, even from day one of buying it. Was informed that was a "safety" feature provided by Chevy themselves. When shutting off the vehicle, everything dies out like the battery went completely dead and car won't start again. Have to play with battery wires and fuse box before I hear the car make any noise again. Was informed by more than one mechanic that there are GM recalls for the thermal cable, battery protective cable, and starter motors, but nothing for my VIN has popped up. Have found almost 100 other complaints on multiple sites and more than a dozen reported accidents due to this issue. Car sits at almost 98,000 miles now and it will not turn over for me. Recalls should be put out for the entirety of this model because I have met 2 other people who have had the exact same problem and were informed that the dealerships have refused to acknowledge prior recall or safety information.
The Captiva suddenly shuts down randomly for absolutely no reason. The issue was directed to be repaired in the other Chevy vehicles because they issued a service bulletin however the Captiva is a fleet vehicle which means they didn't fix the known issue of putting a Ford battery sensor on a Chevy vehicle because fleet vehicles are rarely serviced by a dealership. This is dangerous and someone is going to die if they haven't already. This happened to me losing all power and completely shutting down going 65 mph on the freeway with my children in the car with me. I've not driven this car since August because I don't want to die and I still owe about 4 years of payments on this lemon.
Electrical power to the vehicle cuts out randomly, causing the engine to shut down if driving and losing power steering control and power brakes or the power parking brake randomly engages, creating the potential for a driving hazard. Power also cuts out randomly which causes the vehicle not to start. Driver has to open the hood and manually move the negative battery cable connected to the battery, sometimes multiple times, in order for power to be restored. This manual move puts the person in immediate danger of electrical shock should anything create a power arc while performing this maneuver. GM service bulletin #13186 dated June 2013 addresses this issue with a defect in the negative battery cable, but limits it only to the warranty period only of the new vehicle and not the vehicle as a whole, yet no recall has ever been issued. Based on comments posted on the Chevy forum, this problem is consistent and widespread across the Chevy Captiva vehicles. It is only a matter of time when one of these random power shutdowns leads to a serious accident or death. At the present time we are forced to replace both the positive and negative battery cables at a cost of $590.
I have a 2014 C. Captiva at 79K miles, one Sunday on my way to church, driving on the highway, I heard a pop and the car shifted right and slowed down, I get to church and the serpentine belt came off, pump was leaking oil electrical system shut down. Over $1200 in repair cost. A few months later P0430 error code - catalytic converter replaced, new brakes front and back. Car has not been right since. Past 4 months traction control issues. If I hold my foot on brake at stop sign, alarm goes off dashboard lights up: Traction control, engine light and stabilitrak. Three different mechanics looked at my vehicle to no avail. I took it to my Chevy dealer and yesterday was advised my car is fine drive it for 150 miles. I go out this morning at 5:00 am and while at traffic light, (1.5 miles) all lights back on. Whatever the issue, Chevy needs to thoroughly check to see what's causing the issue, the weather is changing. I'm just over 80K miles and I believe my car has been through the extreme and has yet to be broken in. All these occurences happend within 12 months. I love this car and hopefully Chevy can get to the root of my issues as they are directly related to the engine. 79K miles my car went to a Chevy dealer with complaints of engine. 80,547 miles back in for engine repairs. Diagnosis 15 loss of communication codes and low battery voltage.
The car will go completely dead with 0 power and the key will not come out of the ignition. Open the hood and pound on a fuse box and it will start. It is done this one is stationary and when you're pulling on to the highway or out of your driveway and it will kill itself
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that in order for the vehicle to be started, he would move the seat backward and forward by touching the electric seat switch then the vehicle would start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the negative battery cable was defective and needed to be replaced. The technician referred the contact to a Chevrolet dealer. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer and was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 62,000.
Key ignition doesn't work have hard time trying get car to start. While driving all electrical will go off and car will stop then after trying few times will restart. Had battery replaced and engine checked says maybe sensor.
Frequently car will not start even with good battery and cable connections. While driving car will lose power. The 3 gauges(RPM, speedometer, and gas) all stop and working. The car will still run but at a much less power. Sometimes they start working but rpms will run very high and speed is greatly decreased. Message comes across to service stabilitrak and traction control. Warning lights come on such as ABS, tcs warning, stabilitrak indicator, and parking brake warning. Doors lock and unlock repeatedly. At times have been able to reset by unhooking battery cable and reconnecting and waiting. No pattern as to when and why it happens. Major safety concern. Have even replaced under-hood fuse box. Oh and key gets stuck in ignition. While I will put a date, know that this is happened multiple times over the last year. Usually two times a week sometimes more
In January 2020 I took the car into the shop after hearing noise from the engine. I had to have the timing chain replaced, but as they looked it over they said the engine needed replaced, due to oil leaking. A couple weeks before it was very cold close to 4 degrees and while I was driving into work at 6am I heard a loud sound while at a red light, it sounded like a gun shot. I assumed it was coming from a nearby neighborhood. But to find out my mechanic said that was the engine frozen and popped. He said when its cold that happens to this engine. Unreal! two weeks ago, my car started to smell like it was burning and gas. So I took it in and they replaced the cat converter, exhaust manifold, and leaking seal. Last week, I went to unlock the doors with the remote the rear wiper fluid motor started and ran continuously, to the point it doesn't work at all now. Now this week my trunk will not open, both front head lights burnt out, my traction control keeps turning on/off, my speakers are popping, radio is cutting in/out. I bought this car from the dealer in 2014 with 12K miles on it, always serviced the vehicle, changed the oil regularly, inspected yearly, preventive maintenance every 6 months. Now have 83K miles and I need this car to last me two more years.
The ignition switch on my 2014 Chevy Captiva gets stuck and it does not allow the key to be removed when turning it off when stationary. Upon personal research it was discovered that this model has had this issue with countless drivers (typically at 40K-50K miles) and is not addressed by GM as a recall or safety issue. However, when the switch is unable to be removed it is a sensory issue, the vehicle key is also able to come out while on drive. A simple search 'Chevy Captiva key stuck' will result in many such incidents.
I bought the car used and within the first 7 days when I was leaving for work, the car wouldn't start. The lights flickered 1 time and then went off. I turned the key back thinking I had a bad crank and then tried to start it up again, there was no lights or anything. Tried to take the key out the ignition, the key would not come out. After playing with the car, trying to jump it, I lost home and was reaching to take my badge out from between the seats. When I was pushing the seats backwards, the lights came back in and the car started. 2 days later when I got home from grocery shopping, I hit the clicker to unlock the trunk, it wouldn't open, tried to unlock it from the door, wouldn't open. Put the key in the ignition, car wouldn't turn on and the key wouldn't come out the ignition.
I absolutely love my car. I take it in for regular maintenance. It has 71K miles. Within the past (9) serpentine belt came completely off, power steering pump had to be replaced, engine completely died electrical system needed to be repaired. Car out of commission for (3) weeks, had it towed from site to my mechanic and towed from their to bowser Chevrolet.. now my engine light is on. Sensor was replaced last week, light went out; my engine light is back on. I will be taking it in for repairs. P0420 issue. I'm hoping it falls within pa state specified major emission-control components are warranted for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use.
My current problem is that I am now in need of a new engine due to the fact that this engine, the same engine that is in the class action lawsuit, uses an excessive amount of oil and therefore has caused motor damage over the past 6 years. I regularly change my oil, but didn't realize how much oil this engine goes through in addition to regular oil changes. It should not need a new engine at this point if the engine functioned correctly. In addition, a few months back I have difficulty with the car not starting as if the battery was dead. No electrical would work at all in the car even with a new battery. I would have to mess with the battery connections to get the car to start or hit the fuse box. Also, I have had time with the key getting stuck in the ignition and draining the battery.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Sanoma, CA, USA