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Coolant Leaking
2019 Toyota RAV4
This problem may be covered under warranty. Ask your Toyota dealer.
6.0
fairly significant- Typical Repair Cost:
- $490
- Average Mileage:
- 31,200 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 3 complaints
cooling system problem
Helpful websites
- No one has added a helpful site for this 2019 RAV4 problem yet. Be the first!
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
ENGINE COOLANT BYPASS VALVE - This is on every Rav4 forum - over 1 million views for this issue on just 1 YouTube video explaining it - which is an obvious sign that it’s a problem- not only with RAV4’s but with Corolla’s also. The worst part is finding out the part only costs 60-80$ but because on RAV4’s the hose that is connected to the actuator is pressure fitted (unlike Corollas) you have to replace the duo together and if you don’t have a lift you have to be a contortionist with spaghetti arms to remove and replace it. Or..: take it somewhere and they quote prices ranging from 650-1150. Service shops know people don’t have car lifts - so they are taking advantage of an issue that takes 1 hr at the most to do and saying it’s a 4 hr job. And then what? I replace it with the same defective part and have to do this every 35k miles? At the very least they could initiate a customer support program. It’s just insane that they refuse to acknowledge this as a defective part for which we - their customers should not have to bear the burden of paying for.
Update from Apr 25, 2024: Took it to an independent garage. Labor $120, Got the part (16260-F0010) and 1 gallon of coolant from the dealer $175. Total repair $295. There is a 10 min video on youtube posted by jrdgreat showing how to replace this on a Rav4. After researching the issue, I came to realize you really dont have to replace the hose/valve combo. If you take a flathead screwdriver and jimmy the hose over the little ridges/barbs (there are 3 ridges on the stem) you can detach it without damage to the hose. Then you can just replace the valve/actuator with the kind they use on the Corollas (#16671-F2010) which has a smooth stem and clamp instead of being pressure fitted around a barbed stem. This will save you money on the part and time on labor and you wont need a lift to get to the area where the lower hose connects to the transmission cooler, or the area behind the crank case that the middle hose connects. If you go this route, the hardest part will be removing the 12mm bolts that connect the valve to the bracket. Then remove the bracket itself. Battery removal is optional for more room. Good Luck
- pls do something , Mason, US