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Engine Control Module Failure
2002 Toyota RAV4 (Page 2 of 4)
This problem may be covered under warranty. Ask your Toyota dealer.
CarComplaints.com Notes: If you're looking for a vehicle with one of the most complained about transmission on the road, look no further than the 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4.
In 2001 Toyota completely redesigned the popular SUV. While some enjoyed the new look, they did not enjoy the harsh shifting, jumping from gear-to-gear and eventual transmission failure that cost owners well over $3,000 to fix. The problem stems from a malfunctioning Electronic Control Module (ECM).
Consumer outrage coupled with pressure from different agencies led Toyota to extend the warranty nationwide back in 2010. The previous power train warranty only covered 5 years/60,000 miles, while the extended warranty now covers the transmission and ECM for 10 years/150,000 miles. Toyota also pledged to reimburse any owners who had previously paid for repairs, if they had "proper proof". Good luck collecting on that one.
8.6
pretty bad- Typical Repair Cost:
- $1,860
- Average Mileage:
- 99,750 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 69 complaints
Most Common Solutions:
- replace engine control module (29 reports)
- not sure (16 reports)
- replace ECU (9 reports)
- replace emc/rebuild tranny (4 reports)
- replace ecm computer (3 reports)
- repair ecu $ 500.00 + shipping (2 reports)
engine problem
Helpful websites
- Toyota Extends Warranty on Troubled 2001-3 RAV4 - Toyota is extending the warranty on automatic transmissions and electronic control modules on almost one quarter of a million 2001-2003 RAV4s and offering to reimburse owners who had already paid for repairs.
- Harsh Shifting Problems On 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4 - Description of the problem on 2001-2003 Toyota RAV4 harsh shifting, information regarding repairs and some diagrams as reference for users or mechanics
- Toyota Rav4 Recall Warranty Enhancement 150,000 Miiles - ZTL- certain 2001 through 2003 Model year Rav4 vehicles Customer Support Program (Toyota) - Specific Malfunction Indicator Light "on" diagnostic codes and/or harsh shift of automatic transaxle. If you are not the original owner, then register your vehicle with toyota.com and/or corporate, via telephone.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
The check engine light was on, (error code 750) and shifting was late, then sudden, like holding the clutch in too long, then popping it out suddenly, in the automatic transmission. The dealer wanted $5,250+ to fix it, or I could just do the ECM and hope the tranny would be fixed. I'd had the ECM reprogrammed 3 years ago, according to the records. Sales said they would give me $2000 for the car as is. All the new Toyotas are too long and too low to the ground to be useful to me, and that was just not enough money. Bluebook is about $7k. A local foreign car shop offered to fix just the ECM for $1700, including re-diagnosing the check engine light. The closest place to rebuild the ECM is 3 hours away, and they don't have any in stock. I called my dealer in CA who told me to disconnect the negative battery terminal cable for 10 minutes, then reconnect it. If the lights and horn still work, take it for a test drive. So far, so good. Shifting is fine. Wish my local dealer had told me that. The foreign auto mechanic says it may not last. At least, it is not doing more damage.
Update from Apr 3, 2010: Resetting the ECM by unplugging it- disconnecting the battery- worked for a couple of days, then it was worse than ever. I quit driving it, rode my bicycle everywhere, thinking about what to do. Found Dave in Winona, MN, who would rebuild the ECM for $65, with a lifetime guarantee. I googled the part to find out how to remove it, took out the 7 screws (need a 10mm socket wrench), sent it in for ~ $10 including insurance. Dave sent it back right away. THe car is drivable now, but still is late into shifting around 20 mph. Cheap cure may be Lucas Transmission Oil/Fluid, but the RAV4 transmission can't be overfilled without causing damage. Have to disconnect the rubber tube and run the car for maybe 30 seconds, so transmission fluid spills out, then put in the Lucas. So I'm not a mechanic. Thought it would be easier to siphon it out, but couldn't get a maybe 1/2" tube to go down around the corner of the tube the dipstick for the transmission is in, so can't siphon it.
This website has unreliable data. I first posted this on March 9, 2010, and the date on it has been changed. I copied out the complaints when I posted this, and have an email saying I posted this first complaint on March 9. Clicking on the link in that email brought me to my complaint on this website, with the number of the complaint as 39, and the date as Jan. 10, 2010.
Update from Apr 6, 2010: Put in Lucas transmission fluid, not making the fluid level any more than it was this way. I put down a beach towel under the car so I could get underneath to get to the transmission pan plug. I took out the pan plug with a 10 mm hexagonal allen wrench, caught the fluid in a bottle, put the plug back in, took out the transmission fluid dip stick, poured the lucas into the tube- works faster if you start the car every now and again for a few seconds and move it a few feet. Then poured the original transmission fluid into the lucas bottle so I would know how much NOT to put pack in. Put the rest of the fluid back in. Everything works fine now. Whew! Dave and Lucas, cost $85 total, would have been $5,000 + with the dealer. Thank You God.
It would have been better to remove the transmission fluid pan screws with a 10mm socket wrench, and clean the pan, and put in new fluid. I wasn't ready to have car problems, and wasn't sure that the gasket would still be good, and didn't have new fluid there, and didn't have the car jacked up or in the air, so didn't do that.
- Sue S., Austin, TX, US