This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Speed sensor melted with plug and kept blowing 10A gauge fuse witch gauge stops working windows won't go down and battery will die if not handled and the vehicle was in park this will happen once you turn the key just turn the key the vehicle was not started just the key was turned into the on position then the fuse will automatically pop
The contact owns a 2001 Toyota Camry. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure was unable to be replicated. The failure occurred on several occasions. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was awaiting diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 40,000.
The vehicle overheated and stalled, I steered it to the roadside to call for a tow. Speaking with insurance tow service the car started to smoke from the front passenger side under the hood. As I supplied information the smoke volume increased from the front passenger side under the hood. Smoke volume continued to increase and a crackling/burning sound started. I told the agent I have to go and called 911. I supplied details of the area where the increasing smoke was coming from, the car location and my status. In the car I pulled the hood lever, went outside and stopped short of opening the hood. Realizing I had no means to put out the increasing fire I had to watch my car burn until firefighters arrived. I walk a distance away and waited, while the whole engine compartment went up in smoke....updated 09/22/15 updated 11/06/2017
Symptoms: 1. rear lights off warning comes on the dashboard 2. check warning light comes on with code 1780. (neutral switch on the automatic transmission has a problem) 3. no brake lights or reverse light on in the trunk area only when applying the brakes. 4. brakes vibrate when slowing down around 10mph to stop like your tires are riding a very rough surfaces. 5. reverse light comes on in the shift gear indicator when applying brakes to shift from park position. Initial attempt to fix this problem: Changing the reverse light bulbs and brake light bulbs, but problems continue to remain as describe in the symptoms. 2nd attempt by mike gerber from website www:\\automotiveforums.com. He reported there is a loose wires connection or frayed wires at the hinge of the trunk on the driver side. After careful inspection on the wire harness at the hinge connection of the trunk, discovered at least one wire that was about the break off from opening and closing the trunk of the car for many years. After fixing these wires, all the symptoms were resolved. Amazing!!! couldn't have solved this problem so fast without the reading the article from mike gerber. Thanks!!!!! reason from writing this compliant: Toyota manufacture should recall all these vehicles with this compliant without any charges to their owners..... this is a safety issue because it affected the performance of the braking system causing a vibration everytimes you apply the brakes like the ABS system is activated. In addition, the brake lights aren't working correctly even after changing all the bulbs in the trunk area.
I have 2001 Toyota Camry 4 cyl le model. Many times when I begin my trip from my home my car accelerates even I have my foot off the gas pedal. It only happens within first few miles and then the problem goes away. I have a stop sign close to my home and before nearing the stop sign I lift my foot from gas pedal and car will accelerate and then I have to step on my brakes to stop it by the stop sign. It is very tricky in winter when there is ice on road. Since I am aware of this issue I do not step on gas at all till I hit the first stop sign. Once the car is running for a while the problem seems to go away. I wanted to bring this to the attention as I firmly believe that there is something more than sticky pedal. Since the problem goes away after few minutes of driving. That clearly indicates that the problem is not with sticky pedal. Since my car is not recalled I hope someone looks into this year model too.
I was traveling in my Toyota Camry 2001 on I 75 S from royal oak to detroit, mi around 2:30 am on September 6th 2009, when suddenly I heard some cracking noise underneath the hood and fire from underneath the hood. I was traveling at around 70 miles/hr and tried to steer the vehicle to wards the shoulder and power steering failed and I saw engine light blinking, then tried to slow down and brakes failed. I quickly used hand brake and stopped the vehicle. I quickly turned off the ignition and tried to open the door and noticed that it was locked. I quickly pulled both the knobs simultaneously and got out of the car and called 911. By the time fire engine came to the scene, the car was on huge fire. My car didn't have any major issues in the past. I did change timing belt as per the company guidelines and at authorized dealer/service center. I changed the tires 2 months ago and oil change 1 and half month ago. Neither cops nor me could come to a conclusion on what went wrong. I am letting you know as it may help to increase the safety of cars if you investigate my car. I will be waiting for your response.
2001-Toyota Camry: There is a burning odor when car is operating. The ignition does not always start the car upon inserting and turning the key. Many times when turning the key, there is a high screeching loud noise and the car remains non-operational for a few minutes which occurs everyday. After the car is running for approximately 20-minutes down the road, there is a burning smell similar to burning rubber. The inside of the car near the floor on driver side and passenger side will become warm. It appears heat is generated from the engine into the inside of the car thus resulting in burning odor. Upon acceleration, the car has a jerky, propelling motion forward. Steering column has some stiffness and at other times it has lot of play with turns. The power/electric windows, clock, and cd/radio player do not work properly. These defects/faults occurred approximately 6 months after used vehicle was purchased. As vehicle was sold as is, I did not return to the dealership for repairs. Car was taken to local mechanic and found nothing wrong. With the exception of the daily ignition/start problem, other problems described above, happen approximately five times a month. Regular scheduled service maintenance are performed however all above problems continue to concern me.
The whole instrument panels lights and stereo begin flickering on and off and cuts out the stereo like turning it on and off when this happens. There seems to be no reason or rhyme as to when or why it happens. It has happened numerous times and occasionally smell a burning smell which seems to go away if I turn everything but the motor off. I am also experiencing the headlight lenses are fogged and have poor visibility. When I mentioned the problem to the dealer they said they would just switch it out with another vehicles headlight. They claim to have done this but it looks exactly the same to me.
Drove car on interstate & when reached approx. 60 mph, felt vibration & a shuddering; prepared to pull over but before I could do so, the right front tire exploded, as I literally watched my right front end come apart before my eyes; could hardly control steering but managed to pull off road to safety. After I had stopped, I got out & saw the whole tread of the tire in the road, along with parts of my car all over the place. I could have been killed! I called my husband who put spare tire on & I slowly drove it home & car died repeatedly during the drive we used battery cables to jumpstart, over & over again until we got it home & parked it. The next day the car would not start at all. I had the car towed (out of pocket) to local dealers service dept. (B'ham, al). Service man had to replace entire engine harness due to the harness being ripped out through the right front head light/pass front fender (about 3 feet ripped off). Service manager said he had never seen anything like this & that I should report it & try to have tire company pay for damages, etc. Engine harness destroyed, estimated cost $1890.50 to repair (not including body work which is estimated to be anywhere from another $1,500 to $2,000 in damages). The fender, front headlight and bumper will have to be replaced completely. I've made some arrangements to go ahead & get vehicle running, paying the costs of $1890.50 to get the car running again; again out of my own pocket. I can supply your office with a copy of the service manager's estimate & analogy of what happened to cause damages. I don't have the money to get vehicle completely restored & feel all damages should be reimbursed due to the faulty tire. Needless to say, I'm lucky to be alive since I could hardly control the car when it happened. Thank god the other drivers on the road saw me or it could have caused a multiple car accident, as many cars were traveling all lanes. I was in the middle lane & had to cross over the right lane to exit.
Vehicle hesitates when accelerating and stalls out when attempting to stop vehicle. Power brakes fail to work properly once call stalls out creating a hazard. No injuries or crashes to date but in fear of one occurring. Dealership has made many attempts to correct the problem with no success as of 11/11/04. Replaced the computer module, spark plugs, wires, fuel injectors & clean valves to no avail.
Vehicle stalled at 60 mph. Dealer could not find a cause. The A/C and the fun selector malfunctioned, but the dealer was unable to fix it. The vehicle starts and stalls immediately. The dealer installed a new circuit opening realy and the problem was solved.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Allentown, PA, USA