This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Upon starting the trucks engine, putting the transmission in gear (either Reverse or Drive), at idle engine speed (approx 700-800 rpm) or very low (near idle speed) the trucks engine starts to surge from idle then drops down to 500 rpms with a voltage drop (5V) too. It will do this a couple of times and then the trucks engine dies (engine stops) while in gear and no codes are shown on the CEL or saved in the vehicle control module. When I put the transmission in Park, the trucks engine restarts without a problem. But when I go to Drive or Reverse gear it then will do it again. The truck sounds like the engine brake is being applied causing the engine to lug/bog down. The torque converter has been inspected and replaced. The fuel pump/lifter has been replaced. The batteries have been replaced. The fuel filters have been serviced; the crank case breather has been serviced. The emissions controls equipment (EGR valve) have been serviced/cleaned. Knowing that my trucks engine can cut out/die at anytime at low rpms, poses a safety hazard. Knowing that the truck can do this without a code being throw feels unsafe.
The horn on the vehicle did not work when a small child was running out into the street in front of me. This horn condition was not known before the incident took place. The child was not warned and was nearly hit. I took the vehicle to the dealer and they would not fix even though there was a previous recall for the functionality Safety Recall R36 / NHTSA 15V-459.
The electoral component of the climate control started on fire while vehicle was parked and turned off. The truck was deemed a total loss by insurance. There is a fire and police report stating the fire started in the wiring of the climate control. The fire department had to tear out that whole dash part to stop the fire. There was no warning that this was going to happen. We are now stuck with $8000 left to pay on this vehicle that was deemed total loss by American Family Insurance. This was faulty wiring on Dodges behalf.
The part that failed the first time was transmission module. We were 12-13 hrs from home when 2500 tried to engage 4wd while truck was moving approx 55 mph. While pulling horse trailer. It tried to engage 3 times during repetitive stops along narrow highway. Truck was making loud grinding noise during the attempts to engage 4wd while moving. Truck failure on highway with NO shoulder with NO option but to stop put whole rig in danger of collision. After internet research we pulled appropriate fuse & drove into park. Upon return home 2500 was driven to Russell Barnett Dodge for inspection and repair. Cost to us $721.05 due to no warranty. 4wd service lite appeared while trying to engage. After repair, and approx 200 miles later during an out of state trip pulling horse trailer, the 2500 service lite appeared, and the truck tried to engage 4wd at 65 mph on interstate highway with the same noise. Again pulled fuse and continued trip. We have logged each event with Ram corporate and obtained case numbers. They did not feel this was a safety issue, was not covered under warranty, and our responsibility. So the first repair did NOT work and failed again 2nd time. Ram still would not cover repair & dealer repair shop is saying it-??s a different module. But all symptoms were identical from first event. We feel this is a safety issue - on highways pulling a trailer and potentially becoming a moving obstacle for other drivers if the truck had engaged 4wd at high speed.
- Gurley, AL, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
My digital cluster is out. Can't see info if something is wrong with truck. It's like the same issue with recall 13V486000 but Chrysler says it doesn't cover my truck. It has left me stranded on the side of the road because I couldn't tell what was wrong with truck when it was dinging.
Stop lamps, head lamps, exterior lighting, door locks. Repeatedly going out. Door locks and window no longer working. Recall P32 and N59 address these issues, however Chrysler states our manufacturing month is not within their recall dates. This has happened repeatedly since purchasing vehicle. We took it to a repair shop and they pulled up these recalls with our VIN from shopkeypro. All dates and mileage are approximate since this has happened repeatedly.
Driving in my neighborhood about 20 mph coming up to a stop sign hear this howling noise if you will. Then when I hear it instantly something grabbed and locked and stopped me! I've been having issues with my transmission slipping, well not slipping but between gears. Like the rpms were going up but nothing was moving. I'm not talking about the RPM gauge on the truck going up, it's just a rev up sound. Then will catch and go I'm guessing it's all with the transmission. I'm just glad I was only doing 20 mph instead of hwy speed when it locked
The contact owns a 2014 Ram 2500. While driving various speeds, the instrument panel blacked out and sometimes the indicators would flash. The contact called kimberly car city at 563-391-8300 (located at 625 w kimberly rd, davenport, ia 52806) and was informed that there was no recall. The manufacturer was called, but no one answered the phone. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 69,000.
I noticed the doors were not unlocking on the first try or at all with the key fob. I tried 3 different key fobs and the results were the same. Sometimes only the driver side opened and sometimes not at all. The same went for locking the doors. They would make a sound to lick but they would not activate the locking mechanism. I would have to use the key to manually unlock the driver door and then try to rapidly tap the unlock button inside the door. It would work sometimes. Other times I would manually pull on the stem to open the passenger doors but if you tried to unlock them unsung the electronics first, they would be stuck in this half way position and would not be able to be pulled up to unlock the passenger door. When the doors could not be locked using the electronic locks then the door stem would have to be pushed down on all doors. The problem was that unlocking with a key after triggered the alarm and it would not stop until an unlock signal was sensed. This took pushing the fob endless times. Sometimes without success. The real danger of this presented itself when we stopped driving and had to rapidly exit the vehicle due to emergency. The doors would not unlock. The door handles would not work on the passenger doors trapping my 3 kids in the back seats. I could not manually pull on the stem hard enough to open the doors. Fyi, the manual child locks were off. This incident scared me thinking if there was a fire or roll over and we couldn't get out manually or electrically. Also for safety we have the locks manually activate after driving a bit. This doesn't work sometimes anymore so we are left vulnerable to car jackings. These issues occur mostly when temperatures change outside (humidity?). forums spoke of locking mechanisms being changed without correcting the issue. Only changing the BCM body control module fixed the problem in every case.
Push rods are defective in 2014 engine explained to me by master mechanic at Dodge Ram dealer [tim short Dodge ] push rods were made of a softer steal where by mushroom in shape over time causeing extreme damage to the rest of the enternal parts of this 10.000 dallar engine. Maintaining regular schuled maintinance makes no differance according to master mechanic these are defected push rods in this engine for that year model Dodge has since corrected the defected push rods in the later model trucks 2015 2016 ect. Dodge Ram should replace engine or at a minimum replace defective parts and labor
On thanksgiving day 11/25/17 at 69,988 miles my ECU-PCM (electronic control unit-power control module) computer started throwing "check engine" light codes erratically "service air bag"installing new 16 spark plugs, new fuel injectors, new mass air flow sensor, codes for check brakes, new 8 ignition coil packs, new gates gas cap too. I had to tow it 125 miles from albuquerque, New Mexico to my hometown of las vegas, New Mexico via aaa last December 17th 2017 after attending my youngest son dalan's bs degree graduation ceremony from university of New Mexico. I pretty much parked it for 9 months off and on it'd go 50 miles, then 28 miles, then 1,500 miles, now I have 72,300 miles on it with it throwing codes and driving me and my mechanics crazy whereas I've already spent now >greater than $1,500 so far playing cat/mouse re-setting codes over and over due to the malfunctioning ECU-PCM computer. All my repairs so far to no avail due to the computer ECU-PCM needs a new unit! it has a dealer sticker under the hood in fading permanent sharpie marker indicating numbers that the ECU-PCM computer has already been replaced with a substitute one for whatever reason. I am taking my truck in to lithia Santa Fe, New Mexico on October 30 2018 in 10 days re:2 outstanding recalls. I'm going to ask head mechanic james valdez to replace the ECU-PCM with a new one I pay $543/ month payment to useagle fcu for not being able to use it and I owe $30,000 left on this pos! it has been averaging averaging 6 to 9 mpg for god's sake! because of this malfunctioning code issue. I reset the codes constantly-my mechanic lives 7 houses away I drive it when it doesn't throw codes. It's almost 11 months it has been nothing but a costly irritating pain in my behind with me only being able to put 2 000 miles & lithia sf, nm warranty administrator paulina sena ignores me not returning messages help me!
I have been receiving a fault code on my truck for "electronic throttle control" I take it to an auto parts store and dealership to only be told no codes are present, even when they see the light on the dash. Since having the code pop up my fuel consumption has increased drastically. My avg mpg went from 14.6mpg to 10.2mpg, with the same driving conditions and same route that I have driven the last 4 years. I have had both the dealership and auto parts store clear the codes that are present, the light goes out. But will return within minutes of driving. But yet no fault codes for it specifically. I have searched the net for this issue and have found several articles on multiple Dodge, Ram and crystler vehicles doing this same issue with the dealership telling them the same thing. For me to be consuming a larger amount of fuel with driving the same route and conditions this has to be doing something drastic and damaging to the emission and engine.
Vehicle will not start, "wrong key fob" appears on driver information center. After trying multiple times, key fob will not come out of dash. No push button or remote start. Research indicates there has been a problem with Dodge key fobs since at least 2011.
The left turn signal was activated while making a left turn on a city street and all lights on the instrument cluster began blinking and continued for several seconds after the turn was made and the switch returned back to the neutral position. As I pulled over the instrument cluster returned to normal so I continued on my way home (5 miles). Once I reached home (stopped in driveway) and turned off the vehicle and removed the key, all lights on the instrument cluster began blinking and the vehicle warning for key in the ignition was lit with the key removed. I re-inserted the key and went to run then off with no result, then started and stopped the truck with no result. I exited the truck and confirmed that all external lights (headlights, brakes, turn signals) were in fact flashing. I locked the truck with the fob remote and the problem stopped. 2 months prior I had a warning light to service the 4 wheel drive system that cleared after restarting the vehicle and the satellite radio periodically freezes.
Drove for about 17 miles and parked at a store. Within 5 minutes of parking the truck, white smoke could be seen coming from the hood on the passenger side. As I approached the truck flames came out from under the hood in the same area. Grabbed a fire extinguisher and returned within one minute to find entire engine compartment in flames. Unable to open the hood so the fire extinguisher was not much good. Fire department arrived within 5 minutes but it was too late. Insurance company took possession of the truck and totaled it. Unknown if it was ever determined what caused the fire. Updated 7/26/18
The contact owns a 2014 Ram 2500. While driving on several occasions, the anti-lock brake and check engine warning indicators illuminated. While the brake pedal was depressed, the brakes failed to operate as intended. The dealer diagnosed that the alternator and battery needed to be replaced, and the anti-lock braking module needed to be re-calibrated. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 8,000.
Factory trailer brake controller is speed sensitive but does not put out enough volts at speeds below 30 mph. Regardless of gain setting, trailer does not have adequate braking and is a serious hazard. Connected to a Ford factory controller, trailer will lock up brakes. Answer from dealer is to install an after market trailer brake controller. This is a serious safety hazard. I am not the only one.
My 8,000lb trailer will not slow down even after adjusting and checking all 4 electric brakes. F-150 hooked up to same trailer in same condition will stop the trailer very fast. Many people are having this issue. See below: Continental makes the itbm for Chrysler to Chrysler's requirements. Itbm was redesigned for MY13 and was used in 2013 and 2014 production which had a newly designed electrical architecture introduced for the 2013 model year. The new architecture changed the traditional brake switch signal and made it impossible for after market trailer brake solutions until the after market developed an interface cable. Chrysler again changed the brake signal back to traditional signaling but for an unknown reason (and also undocumented), designed a 70% maximum output from the itbm at speeds below 30mph. What makes this move more mysterious is the manual slide on the itbm, typically used to set the gain of the itbm's output, will not put out maximum braking, but is also limited to the 70% rule making setting your gain impossible as instructed by the owners' manual. We are all waiting for something to happen from Chrysler, all that is needed is a software update. I was told by Chrysler, if a change was made, it would be introduced in the next Ram hd refresh now scheduled for 2019. That was before more noise about this issue. Depending on what voltage your trailer's brakes require for forceful stopping determines if you will see the 70% rule issue. For example, my Montana needs 10.5 volts for a forceful stop, I'm out of luck. My utility trailer only need 6 volts, no problem, just difficult setting the gain.
Since purchased new with 30 miles on the odometer, my Ram truck has exhibited the following HVAC/electrical issues both while stationary and in motion: 1. air flow pressure is greater in the passenger foot well then the drivers 2. air temperature is hotter (when set to heat) on the passenger side then the drivers 3. air flow will continue from the front defroster position (windshield) when set to floor only from the control panel this condition presents a safety issue as I am forced to constantly fiddle with the HVAC while in motion to adjust the interior temperature for my family. Additionally, in my cold climate when heat is directed to the floor I have hot air blowing into my face and eyes that I cannot prevent. The vehicle has been taken to dealer servicing on two occasions. Both times the servicer 'flashed' the HVAC system and reported that it is operating as designed. On the second visit the servicer said that they checked another Ram on the lot and it's HVAC worked in the same way. They said there is nothing more they can do about the issue.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Thornton, CO, USA