This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
A couple of weeks ago on my way home from school I could smell something burning. I stopped my car and started looking around to find that the front passengers seat was smoldering and burning a hole in my backpack, toque and the seat itself. The seat warmer switch was in the off position. My dad has since disconnected the wiring to the seat warmers on both drivers and passenger sides. This seems to be a safety issue. Has there been other complaints like this for these vehicles? We have not been to the dealer, we have contacted Nissan and were told the following "Your vehicle is out of warranty and therefore is not our problem" The car has 170,000 kms on it but this is a safety issue not a warranty complaint.
The contact owns a 2014 Nissan Juke. The contact stated while driving approximately 45 MPH, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The contact shifted to park(P) and restarted the vehicle. The failure recurred more frequently. The check engine, service engine, and engine temperate warning lights were illuminated. The dealer was notified of the failure however no assistance was provided. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 15V418000 (Electrical System). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 105,000.
Began noticing issues within first year of owning vehicle. Every occurrence would take it to dealership (grainger Nissan of savannah, ga) to get checked. By the time I got to the dealership, everything would be working fine. They did a computer diagnostic test on the electrical/navigation systems each time with no issues being found. I requested it to be documented each time in the event something happened after warranty ended. Unfortunately I do not have the dates/mileage but should be documented at the aforementioned dealership. So the dates/mileage stated is an estimation. The following is a more detailed explanation of what/how the components were affected. When I'm in an unknown area, I rely heavily on gps in my car, when it cuts out, I have no choice but pull over & wait it out, or hope to get cell service & use my phone's gps, not always an option. Each time it occurred is unexpected with no apparent reason. Every time is different, upon starting car, all electrical components are out/unusable. Happens when car is in motion at any speed. Navigation screen/radio goes black, controls unresponsive to all touch/pressure/turning/etc. I believe it is a possible loose wire connection or something similar, causing all electrical components being rendered unresponsive for various lengths of time. From moment of onset to the time it's operating normally varies from 30 min, up to 1-2 days. Components included are navigation/radio screen & all controls; all steering wheel controls; ac/radio knob controls; dash/instrument panel lights go out; driver side window/door controls become unresponsive. Dealership claimed they were unable to investigate further being the diagnostic tests failed to find any issues.
- Hinesville, GA, USA
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Brake switch stopped working when pressed each time but was still connected. Car could not be started when brake lights do not come on. After confirming no issue with the brake. The car started stalling periodically while driving causing a safety issue. Appears to be related to the start stop switch safety campaign.
Electrical issues began within months after purchasing (Dec 2014). Navigation system, radio, interior lights all go haywire unexpectedly. Radio//navigation completely black; interior lights either stay on, flicker or won't come on at all. After taking it back to the dealership & having them test it, they always claimed their computers didn't catch any issues. I requested that my complaints be marked down & sent in to manufacturer every time. That began happening before 20,000 miles and continues today (115,000 miles). The car has never thrown any codes & never had any check engine lights, or any such mechanical issue light notifications come up on dash. The car began losing power around 75,000 miles (oil changes, maintenance done on time)'when accelerating the car would skip, jump or almost stall whenever trying to pull out in traffic. Changed spark plugs at recommended mileage (100,000), no change. One day after driving to the gas station which is 4.2 miles from my home & back home, when mileage was around 100,000 (conveniently immediately after warranty expires) my cars A/C quit working, and the car ran incredibly hot (with absolutely no indication of any issues). I noticed my feet were burning under the driver side dash (while driving). Pulled over, popped hood-immediately saw coolant reservoir (plastic reservoir) was empty, checked oil dipstick and nothing'no oil. 3 days prior to this situation I checked fluids (in South Georgia during the be summer it's incredibly hot & I was taught to keep an eye on oil/fluids during extremely hot weather. I had an oil change roughly a month prior to this situation as well. After this overheating problem was resolved, my A/C no longer cooled. Recharging did nothing'due to the perfect timing of the warranty expiring that left me with no alternative other than accept my fate & the unbearable Georgia heat.
I brought my Juke into Nissan for an oil change. After getting the vehicle back that night I began having issues starting the car. Initially I thought the key needed to be reprogrammed. I spent the money bought a second key and the there problem still exist. The start/stop engine button on the car only starts the car after multiple tries. There is obviously an issue with the start/stop button. This has been a continual problem and has left me stranded because the car will not start back up. The battery is brand new, I have a brand new key, and the break pedal censor is good.
Vehicle has just over 25000 miles. When turning at low speeds and a couple times while driving straight at low speeds there is a clunking/clicking noise. It seems to do it mostly while braking. I'm thinking either the tie rod ends or maybe cv axle. I don't think a vehicle with less than 75,000 miles should have failing suspension parts. The navigation system/radio screen has gone black a couple times with no communication from any buttons. I couldn't turn it on or off, or operate any radio stations. I disconnected the battery terminals for a couple minutes and that seemed to fix the problem for now. Also, the steering wheel buttons to change the station/volume seem to work only when they want to. And the volume will sometimes erratically turn extremely loud or low with the slightest turn or the knob/one or two pushes of the button on the steering wheel. When parked/at low speeds, operating the windows will cause a drop in rpms. The auto up for the driver window no longer works, while the auto down still does. The car is a manual transmission nismo. It has low miles for the age of the vehicle. I shouldn't be having electrical and suspension issues at the mileage/age of the vehicle. I've read that multiple people are having the same problem with the nav screen. Also, I've read multiple people having problems with the windows causing RPM to drop. I haven't looked into the clunking noise much yet, but I'm sure there are people experiencing the same issue as I am. This is unacceptable. I trust Nissan brand and know they are excellent cars that can be driven for many years and miles. If you could please look into these issues and find a solution it would make many people with this make and model be more comfortable in their cars and have faith that they aren't going to break down/ have to dump loads of unnecessary money into it.
When I'm at a stoplight my car feels like it's going to stall out my rpms are bouncing between 500 and 800. I was at the carwash one day and as you know you have to put your car in neutral when the car wash is in process. When I went to go shift into drive putting my foot on the brake it felt like it was going to stall out. Also when it's just warming up in the garage my rpms bounce back and forth between 500 and 800 rpms. And when I go roll up my windows I get a really bad electrical shortage like it's going to die out I took it to the dealer and they said they can't find anything wrong with it or they don't know why my rpms are bouncing up and down like that they reset my idle control system and nothing has changed I changed out the battery put a brand new battery in it hoping it would change the problem and nothing happened. When driving sometimes when making a left or right hand turn after making a stop and I go to accelerate. It feels like it's going to stall out in the middle of the turn.
The contact owns a 2014 Nissan Juke. Whle driving 5 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. Upon making a left turn, the contact heard a loud clunking noise coming from the vehicle prior to the vehicle stalling. The vehicle was towed to eddie tourelle's northpark Nissan in covington, Louisiana where it was determined that the bearings and alternator seized. The alternator and the bearings were replaced on the vehicle. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was approximately 40,100.
Nissan Juke owners are reporting over the internet that the car suffers from a defective alternator or battery that causes the car to lose power during normal driving in hot weather. Temps are in the 100S in ca right now 06/20/17. I purchased my Juke a weeks ago. It drove fine when I did the initial 3 test drives before buying it. It was not until I actually drove the car some respectable miles that I noticed that this car has a safety issue that is triggered when any of the following conditions are met: #1. driving in hot temps on the fwy in stop and go traffic if the operator rolls the window down while driving the car will react by shuttering when the windows are rolled down or if you hold down the button. Once this is triggered the car moves at a snails pace for the rest of the time. #2 if you turn your ac on in auto mode in hot weather ~100 C or more for longer than an hour while driving in hot weather and stop and go traffic the car will suddenly lose power in an un-safe manner that could cause a traffic accident. It is not until you turn off the ac that the car will slowly start to gain power pack after the issue is triggered. Both of these issues are common amongst Juke owners. I have experienced both on more than one occasion and to be honest Nissan should have done their due diligence by recalling the Nissan Juke. It appears from what I have read and to the people from Nissan that I spoke with the Juke was specced with the weak battery and weak alternator that are both affected by heat soak which triggers the car to go into safe mode to protect the engine from damage.
While driving my 2014 Nissan Juke it went from 70 to 20 on the interstate and I was almost ran over by large trucks that were unable to stop. This has happened multiple times. While driving to work this time, it dropped in speed again and the rpms went over 6 but the car would not move. I push the gas to the floor and nothing happens. I am afraid to drive my car home from work due to impending death concerns.
Gauge cluster not displaying the flashing arrows when the turn signal stalk is engaged to either side but the lights outside the car is still operational. Also, the power locks will disengaged intermittently while the vehicle is in motion, on any speed. Updated 09/08/15 updated 10/27/2017
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Calgary, MT, USA