Bought the 2012 Juke 1/5/2016 with 23941 miles. It now has 38000 miles and this is when the problems started. The car wouldn't start when I pushed the start button. I got my fast-starter unit and placed the jumpers on positive terminal and the negative jumper on the body. Car started right up. I knew nothing about this problem at this time. I took the car to Advance Auto and they tested the battery. The battery was fine, but it needed a charge. Fired it up again with my fast-starter and drove home.
Put my battery charger unit on the battery and it registered around 12 volts. I set it for trickle charge. when charge was done it registered around 13.9 to 14 volts. I left my battery charger on the car and started it to check on the alternator. Alternator tested good.
The next time I tried to start it was the next day. Again something had drained the battery. I removed the battery, placed it on the ground and put the battery charger on it. After it was fully charged, I cleaned the heck out of the positive and negative terminals. I put anti-corrosion pads on each terminal and then reinstalled the battery and greased it. After re installation I checked all of the different wires in wire groups. I noticed that some insulation had frayed due to engine heat. I covered with duck tape, covering any exposed areas.
Then it was time to check the under the hood and cabin fuse boxes. To my chagrin someone had removed fuses? Under the hood fuse box I was missing a 10A fuse (red) labeled Anti-Theft. In the cabin fuses I as missing a 10A audio mirror 2, IPDM IG2 10A. Then I read about the electric parts battery 10A fuse, which is not inserted when the car is transported to the dealer so the battery doesn't run down. After it gets to the dealer the fuse assembly is pushed in and activated. When I removed the assembly there was no fuse inserted, I replaced it. The 10A 4wd fuse was missing and I replaced it.
So far the car has been starting fine, but I will continue to monitor it. I still think there is an electrical problem. Some have had the ground wire replaced or the brake sensor replaced to fix this problem. I am still trying to determine how and what the battery monitor in normal drive mode works. In a normal analog Gauge, when you start the car and it is in the middle position you are good. If the gauge leans to the positive side it means battery is charging, and if it leans to the negative side your battery is discharging and perhaps your alternator is bad. With the computer gauge it has five ticks, or positions. I know if you try to start the car and look at the gauge, and only two ticks are illuminated, the car won't start. Even though there is enough electricity to run the navigation, A/C, and all the gauges , and lights. Also for those you have this problem and get stuck and have to call AAA or some towing service. You might want to buy a quick starter. It has about 500 cranking AMPS. Also has a compressor so you can fill your tires with air, an emergency lamp, and two AC outlets to run you portable radio. The new ones have USB ports to charge your electronic gear. You don't need another vehicle to jump you. You just take you unit and put it under the hood, connect the red cable to positive, and the black cable to negative or ground on the car body. Then power it on, jump in your car and press the start button and it will crank your car engine. It will also test your alternator, green for good, red for bad. I will check back in a few weeks or so to give you my results good, bad, or ugly. .
This the second time the car would not start! First time in February of this year and 8/30/16. The first time it was generator/alternator upgrade fix supposedly a 750+ fix which after a number discussions they covered. This time it was new battery. Which was 135.00 to fix. Once I stressed this should have been covered under the certified pre owned warranty and been handled before sale they relented and covered. The dealer and Nissan are quite aware of this problem!
Course, they did attempt to sell me a new Juke 2016 for a ridiculous price and a much lower trim level at almost full retail and bare boned price for the trade in. Didn't happen! So I had them replace the battery and it's done for now. Until the next time!
This is just stupid on Nissan's part not to research this defect and do a recall.
Man.. I've read this problem exist in the nissan juke 2012-2015 a lot on the forums and in all of the forums, no one seems to have it resolved, even after taking it to the nissan dealership several times. Nissan tends to say it's the battery problem because their computers didn't detect anything wrong with the car since "no codes" pops up and because the battery wouldn't hold a full charge or something like that. However, after changing the batteries, which a lot of these people from the forums have mentioned, the problem would resume again and again. Anyhow, I'd hate to bring it into the dealership after reading everyone's experiences with the situation but I'm gonna do it anyways and if I go through with the same problems, i'll do my best to take it to the corporate level and make sure everyone that has dealt with this problem will not go out in vain. Same team people.. we'll get this resolved together.. Wish us luck since I'm going back to the dealership now after they have changed my battery. =)
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
Bought the 2012 Juke 1/5/2016 with 23941 miles. It now has 38000 miles and this is when the problems started. The car wouldn't start when I pushed the start button. I got my fast-starter unit and placed the jumpers on positive terminal and the negative jumper on the body. Car started right up. I knew nothing about this problem at this time. I took the car to Advance Auto and they tested the battery. The battery was fine, but it needed a charge. Fired it up again with my fast-starter and drove home.
Put my battery charger unit on the battery and it registered around 12 volts. I set it for trickle charge. when charge was done it registered around 13.9 to 14 volts. I left my battery charger on the car and started it to check on the alternator. Alternator tested good.
The next time I tried to start it was the next day. Again something had drained the battery. I removed the battery, placed it on the ground and put the battery charger on it. After it was fully charged, I cleaned the heck out of the positive and negative terminals. I put anti-corrosion pads on each terminal and then reinstalled the battery and greased it. After re installation I checked all of the different wires in wire groups. I noticed that some insulation had frayed due to engine heat. I covered with duck tape, covering any exposed areas.
Then it was time to check the under the hood and cabin fuse boxes. To my chagrin someone had removed fuses? Under the hood fuse box I was missing a 10A fuse (red) labeled Anti-Theft. In the cabin fuses I as missing a 10A audio mirror 2, IPDM IG2 10A. Then I read about the electric parts battery 10A fuse, which is not inserted when the car is transported to the dealer so the battery doesn't run down. After it gets to the dealer the fuse assembly is pushed in and activated. When I removed the assembly there was no fuse inserted, I replaced it. The 10A 4wd fuse was missing and I replaced it.
So far the car has been starting fine, but I will continue to monitor it. I still think there is an electrical problem. Some have had the ground wire replaced or the brake sensor replaced to fix this problem. I am still trying to determine how and what the battery monitor in normal drive mode works. In a normal analog Gauge, when you start the car and it is in the middle position you are good. If the gauge leans to the positive side it means battery is charging, and if it leans to the negative side your battery is discharging and perhaps your alternator is bad. With the computer gauge it has five ticks, or positions. I know if you try to start the car and look at the gauge, and only two ticks are illuminated, the car won't start. Even though there is enough electricity to run the navigation, A/C, and all the gauges , and lights. Also for those you have this problem and get stuck and have to call AAA or some towing service. You might want to buy a quick starter. It has about 500 cranking AMPS. Also has a compressor so you can fill your tires with air, an emergency lamp, and two AC outlets to run you portable radio. The new ones have USB ports to charge your electronic gear. You don't need another vehicle to jump you. You just take you unit and put it under the hood, connect the red cable to positive, and the black cable to negative or ground on the car body. Then power it on, jump in your car and press the start button and it will crank your car engine. It will also test your alternator, green for good, red for bad. I will check back in a few weeks or so to give you my results good, bad, or ugly. .
- Peter W., Powder Springs, GA, US