The vehicles kick plate where all the wires connect are all corroded its a major problem with all evos there should be a recall to get this problem fixed.

- Milford , PA, USA

The heater control knob (hot/cold adjust) was difficult to turn. This was noted to the dealership after I bought the car. In addition, the magazine, motortrend, identified this issue in its review of evo vs sti. The dealer said that the part was known to sometimes stick but would be fine. About 3 months ago, 12/4/11, the knob completely broke off. The issue was covered by a tsb, however, the dealer did not state that the issue was known to have a fix. This is a common cause failure for all 03 lancers and outbacks. The manufacture has chosen not to issue a recall, but is currently waiting until the part completely fails and hopes it happens after warranty expires so it will be covered by the customer. This issue causes 2 problems. One, if it is selected to cold, you cannot defrost the window unless you reach under the dashboard to adjust temperature, or, us a pair of pliers to adjust the dial, and thus creating a significant driving hazard. Two, for those individuals that the knob has not broken off, it creates a hazard by focusing the drivers attention more on climate control and not on the road. The tsb that was issued does fix the problem but so far, Mitsubishi will not issue a recall on their defective part nor inform their customers if a fix for a previously identified issue becomes available.

- Dothan, AL, USA

I got into my car to start and it would turn over but not start. After replacing the fuel pump, checking all the fuses and relays, still the same problem. The wire harness fuse block that sits inside the drivers foot well has been corroded by water from a leak in the fire wall. This is a very common problem that even goes back to the previous generation, evo vii, and wasn't fixed for the following generation, evo ix.

- Centennial, CO, USA

Multiple dashboard lights activated simpltaneously (ABS, SRS, battery, emergency brake) at the same time the horn and wipers malfunctioned it was quite disorienting and happened in heavy traffic in a rainstorm! quite unsafe.

- Cortland, NY, USA

I had just arrived from work and pulled-in my driveway, I was idling my car before shutting off the engine. I then switched off my headlights, but the headlights stayed on. I then proceeded to turn the headlight switch on, then off; after several attempts the headlights finally switched off, but then, the headlights, parklights, markers and even the license plate lights would flicker until the ignition was switched off and pulled out the key, but just before this incident I used my wipers to clear my windshield of rain/mist with a one wipe/manual sweep and the wipers just seemed that it didn't want to stop wiping until the ignition was switched off and the key pulled out. This is the first incident and it was raining or had just rained. The dealership then replaced both light and wiper switches after determining that there was a short. This seemed to address and correct the problems. Then on April 28, 2008 I had just arrived at work and was idling my car before switching the ignition off, as I switched off the lights the horn started going off continuously. If the lights were left in the on or park position, the horn would stop, but when the light switch was turned off, it didn't stop going off even when the ignition was off and the key pulled out. It only stopped after the fuse was pulled out. Again, the weather was raining or had just rained. I then dropped off my car at the dealership and they determined that water intrusion through the driver's front kick panel to junction block, instrument harness, floor harness and chassis harness. Corrosion on pins and connectors causing failures and shorts to all systems. They had an outside vendor seal around wiring harness behind inner fender well. At this point none of the wirings nor harness were replaced. I was informed that this would all be customer pay and not covered under warranty as I have exceeded the 3/36 warranty period. Wipers horn and remote un/lock don't work.

- Parkville, MD, USA

My P300 error code comes on my Lancer evolution randomly while driving around.

- Verdi, NV, USA

1. this car is completely stock and driven by an adult who does not race or abuse any of the cars mechanical systems. 2. the issue I have is with a obd-II 'engine warning' code cell 0300 I repeatedly get while driving on the freeway. I experience this warning up to 5 times a day during my 20 mile freeway commute. The cel warning comes on most often during very light acceleration inputs (5-15% throttle) while attempting to maintain speed with the other traffic on the road. While gently touching the throttle, there is a sudden and violent engine misfiring that slows the car down considerably. This makes me a safety hazard on the streets because the car will not accelerate again until I let off the throttle completely then jab it violently (50% or more throttle). This error repeats each time I use gentle throttle inputs on the freeway. As a result, I drive around with my "check engine" light lit almost 100% of the time. In the state of ca, if your engine light is on when you go for your annual smog/emissions test, you are instantly failed! my car would fail an emissions test in this state because the equipment is not operating properly. 3. I approached the dealer with this issue. They replaced the coil packs and the spark plugs to see if that would fix things. And while they were very cordial about finding the source of the problem, and fixing it under warranty, they were not able to fix my car. They also don't know what is causing the ECU to throw this error code. So I am currently driving a 1 year old car that is still shuddering violently at highway speeds, creating a rolling roadblock when shuddering, and is an instant fail when it comes time to do a smog check. This problem obviously effects the safety of my vehicle and the resale value of my vehicle and needs to addressed right away.

- Newport Coast, CA, USA