I just started having this problem after getting the intake manifold replaced a month ago. Three different times it hasn't wanted to start. First time, it took about 6 tries before starting, second time, wouldn't start until car sat overnight then it started right up and third time, was last night, drove to town just fine and after about 3 hours came out to start and it never started, would turnover but not fire.. left me stranded last night. I have already changed plugs and wires, fuel filter and had battery tested by walmart and they say it is still good. Some say it might be the fuel pump but I feel like it could be a sensor or module. Can't afford to do a lot of trial and error work. If anyone has an idea or a similar problem please help!!!
Update from Aug 10, 2012:...........................FIXED! I decided to take my car to have the electric system checked first before just changing the fuel pump... it turns out I had two bad relays; one to the fuel pump and I believe he said one to the engine? And nothing else showed up on his electrical tester. Hind site is.... the two relays are only around 30 - 40.00 dollars to buy and I could probably have changed myself but the fuel pump relay felt like it was working when we check it ...So the tester charge was 66.00 and labor 35.00, Hey! we all have to make a living and I'm not a mechanic.... I feel blessed my repair was this cheap and easy to fix....
Car wouldnt start intermittently, or would crank long before it would start when it was cold, was hard to diagnose, since when it started, it started back up fine, replaced fuel pump, which didnt fix it. Turned out to be crank sensor, bad wire on it, or sometimes they leak and get oil in them, if you tap it while cranking, it should start. Something extremely minor to fix, and I love my car again.
SOME DAYS THE CAR WILL START RIGHT UP. TAKE IT TO THE STORE . SHUT IT OFF. COME BACK OUT,AND IT WILL NOT START. IT CRANKS BUT DOES NOT FIRE. IVE FOUND THAT THERE IS AN INTERRUPTION OF POWER GOING TO THE FUEL PUMP. CHANGED THE INERTIA SWITCH,RAN FOR A WEEK. CHANGED THE PUMP, RAN FOR COUPLE DAYS. TOW IT HOME,IT SITS IN THE DRIVEWAY FOR 2 DAYS. I TRY IT AGAIN, AND IT STARTS RIGHT UP. CHANGED THE FUEL PUMP RELAYS. SAME THING. WHEN I FOUND THE POWER TO THE PUMP WAS NOT ALWAYS THERE,I STARTED TRACING IT BACK TO THE ENGINE. BEFORE I GOT 2 FT. THE POWER WAS BACK AND THE CAR STARTED. IS THIS FROM THE COMPUTER?IGNITION MODULE?IGNITION SWITCH?IT DOESN'T SHOW A FAULT CODE ON THE SCANNER. IS THERE AN IGNITION MODULE ON THIS CAR????IF SO, WHERE. DEALER SHOPS ARE ABOUT USELESS.
- George I.,
Cedar Lake, IN, US
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I just started having this problem after getting the intake manifold replaced a month ago. Three different times it hasn't wanted to start. First time, it took about 6 tries before starting, second time, wouldn't start until car sat overnight then it started right up and third time, was last night, drove to town just fine and after about 3 hours came out to start and it never started, would turnover but not fire.. left me stranded last night. I have already changed plugs and wires, fuel filter and had battery tested by walmart and they say it is still good. Some say it might be the fuel pump but I feel like it could be a sensor or module. Can't afford to do a lot of trial and error work. If anyone has an idea or a similar problem please help!!!
Update from Aug 10, 2012:...........................FIXED! I decided to take my car to have the electric system checked first before just changing the fuel pump... it turns out I had two bad relays; one to the fuel pump and I believe he said one to the engine? And nothing else showed up on his electrical tester. Hind site is.... the two relays are only around 30 - 40.00 dollars to buy and I could probably have changed myself but the fuel pump relay felt like it was working when we check it ...So the tester charge was 66.00 and labor 35.00, Hey! we all have to make a living and I'm not a mechanic.... I feel blessed my repair was this cheap and easy to fix....
- plynn, Kellyville, OK, US