This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Car engine died and lost power on highway putting me at risk of getting into an accident. I had to pull over on shoulder quickly and then blew out a tire a I ran over a unavoidable object on the side of the road.
Kia has now settled their class action suit for all the other vehicles, yet the hybrids are still being left out of any recalls. There is plenty of evidence in the complaints here that something is wrong. I sunk $7000 that I didn't have to spare into getting a new engine put in this car. Only to have the transmission blow right after I got the car back from Kia after waiting 6 months for an engine. The transmission cost another $5000, and it took them three transmissions to install a non-faulty transmission. I almost lost my job because I couldn't reliably get to work on time, if at all. Kia themselves have said that the engines weren't manufactured correctly and that labor being done in Kia dealerships wasn't being done correctly. Hybrid engines should absolutely not be blowing rods at 60000 miles, or 80000 miles, and not even 100000 miles. Kia is knowingly delaying any sort of recall and forcing people to go into further debt or lose jobs.
Failure date: 06/25/2019 my 2012 Kia Optima engine shut off while I was driving and luckily I didnt get into accident and was able pull off the road to wait for a tow truck. This is very scary and dangerous. I had it towed to an auto repair garage they changed out the started and changed out the battery it just made a clicking sound but wouldn't start. I started reading on line that this exact situation has happened to other Kia Optima vehicles. My vehicle has 99189 miles so it falls within the power train warranty of 100,000 miles
I have a 2012 Kia Optima hybrid at 80, xxx, and have always kept up with the scheduled services/maintenance. I barely drive my car nowadays, and just ride my bicycle to take public transportation that is 1-mile away. My wife and I were driving on the freeway, going 65mph, 47-miles into our drive, our car started jerking. We have about 3-4 miles left to our destination. When you pressed on the gas, it sounded like it was just accelerating and not shifting to the next gear. There were no warning lights or notification as to why that was happening. We exited from the freeway and stopped at a local plaza to try and reset the car, and gave the car about 20-mins before driving again. When we tried driving about the last 10-mins, even at 20mph, it was still jerking and still sounded like it wasn't shifting to the next gear, and still no warning lights. We ended up towing our car back home because we didn't want to risk getting stuck on the freeway at 1-2am. Unfortunately, I am the 2nd owner, however, I do have extended warranty, so I hope this issue is not that serious. I will definitely contact Kia and raise this concern because it is a safety hazard.
- South San Francisco, CA, USA
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The contact owns a 2012 Kia Optima. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the vehicle started hesitating and the rear brake lights were illuminated without the brake pedal being depressed. The vehicle was taken to local dealer shawnee mission Kia (7951 shawnee mission pkwy, merriam, ks 66202, (913) 384-9100) where it was diagnosed that the shift solenoid needing to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,408.
Engine light came on while driving. When starting car, it's not starting as it should and staking lugging and sluggish while driving. Country road driving approximately 45 mph..
While driving on many city streets 0-45mph and interstate 0-70mph service engine light comes on and goes off periodically. When the light is on, car shakes and sputters as transmission gears shift (not engne). Appears to be something to do with the transmission. Caught the light on and read code P0711. According to tsb 043 [rev ] /2/2013 this is an internal problem and must be corrected by a licensed mechanic.
Problems start in 2012 engine recall in 2017 was replace, steering recall in 2018 steering coupling was replace how ever my rack and pinion was affected and needs to be replace. We call them in 2012 regarding the steering wheel witch they didn't fix at that time which caused rack and pinion to wear out. We went to three different dealer ships regarding this car and nothing was done. This car is still giving us problems and we want the manufacture to either give us our money back or fix this problem this car is a hazard to our family, if something ist done some one is going to get hurt in this car!!!. this car stop on us in traffic someone could of gotten hurt, aaa had to pull this car to the selma dealer ship at that time. On the freeway the steering wheel would pull side to side that's dangerous. From 2012 until now this car is still giving us problems. We have all the paper work that was done on this lemon.why don't someone help these consumers out here with these problem on the Kia. I need help as asap. Sincerely, [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
My Kia Optima ABS system will randomly make a crunch sound when I step on the brakes, and I lose some engine power immediately after to the point that my car will not accelerate past 40 mph. It has happened several times on busy highways where I have to fear causing a major accident. Kia dealer cannot figure out the issue, they had my car for a day and repaired the steering column and sent me home, only for the problem to occur again the following week.
The contact owns a 2012 Kia Optima. While driving approximately 65 mph, the vehicle went in and out of gear and finally lost all acceleration. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The contact had to pull over to the side of the road to a complete stop and then restarted the vehicle. The contact drove the vehicle to work and back home without any issues. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer or an independent mechanic for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and provided case number: K32Q8186. The approximate failure mileage was 42,900.
I was driving down the highway and my 2012 Kia Optima lost power with no warning signs. I had it towed to a mechanic only to find that the motor was locked up. Did I mention that I had just bought the car from boyles auto sales in jasper, Alabama on February 3, 2017 and the car quit on February 26, 2017 not even 30 days since the purchase of my car. Unfortunely, since we paid cash for the car the dealer basicly told us he wouldn't do anything. So now I am without a vehicle and having to find more money to replace the motor in the car that this dealer sold me. After further research I have learned that Kia has problems with the Kia Optima's for several years and the 2012 that I purchased is included. The mechanic told us that all the components of the car that should have oil, water, any type of fluid was fine but that something internal had stopped operating and caused the motor to lock up.
I took car in for the clicking noise in steering wheel. While car was up inair on stands. The rep stated their was a small leak coming from the turbo oil feed line. However it was not cover under warranty because its not the turbo. I told the it is if its feeding the oil. I did some research on the problem and found that it is a common issue with all of their cars and they are refusing to fix the issue. I told the rep that if the oil causes a burning smell it can cause a fire. I was told the manager would call me but now they are not taking my calls about replacing the line to the turbo.
While driving approximately 65 mph on a highway, the engine shut down without warning. The vehicle was coasted to the side of the road but would not restart. It was towed to a mechanic who diagnosed a catastrophic engine failure. The shop maintained that the engine seized due to apparent improper oil change. The vehicle was purchased less than 30 days prior to the event. The vehicle was subsequently towed to a Kia dealership where they, too, were unable to manually turn the engine over. Kia service center removed the valve cover and found heavy sludge built up in engine causing it to fail and lock up. Kia motors of America denied claim due to lack of proper maintenance. However, Hyundai sonata engines were recalled due to metallic debris in engine which restricted oil flow and presented the same manifestations of engine sludge. Kia Optima sedans were built using engines manufactured at the plant cited in the Hyundai recall.
I have a knocking sound in my steering wheel. The noise happens when I turn the wheel back and forth. Also, I have noticed an odd grinding/slipping sensation in the front left wheel when I accelerate on a right turn from different elevations. Pulling out of a parking lot on a "decline" while accelerating to the right to enter traffic is a good example. 73,000 miles currently but I've noticed the grind/slip a lower mileage.
Car will jerk hard when changing gears. It happens while going in speeds below 45 mph. The car will jerk really hard while driving and the rpms will jump from 2-3 straight up to 6. it has happened several times in the last week. I am taking it to the Kia dealer to see if they can locate and fix the problem. Based on what I have read here, there doesn't appear to be a fix. I am really concerned it will accelerate and cause me to have an accident.
Jerking and loss of acceleration when driving and when shifting in parking/reverse. When shifting in reverse it makes a jerk and make a thud. Same thing in drive but a little more harsh. Jerking also just when shifting to drive after starting the car. Even when I drive it would give a jerk a few times when switching gears, and also when I brake to slow down it does it. I also remember the car shaking one time when I turned it on. It also lost acceleration while driving to work in a 45 mpg area. Had to pull over and shut/restart the car a few times. Taken in to Kia each time this happened. Last night, June 30, was the forth time. Kia can't figure out what's wrong with it. It is scary and unsafe as I feel it can cause a rear-end accident.
The waste gate actuator on Kia Optima turbo model failed. There are thousands of complaints about this defective part online and Kia has not address the issue of this defect. To replace the defective part which is not covered under the powertrain warranty is $500. Do not purchase a Kia until they have addressed this glaring defect. I've had 8 cars in my life 7 Honda and 1 Kia. The Kia was a big mistake.
Vehicle had random abnormal jerking, bucking and clunking by the transmission during normal acceleration, which causes abnormal deceleration. This could cause an issue with normal driving and can cause a rear end accident. The cause of this after vehicle was taken to the dealer, is the transmission temperature relay. Apparently the mechanic advised that other vehicles have been brought in with the same relay issue and there has been no recalls on the part.
While driving my 2012 Kia Optima sx T gdi I lost accelerations on the highway. I was driving at 55 mph because the car wouldn't accelerate, but it did decrease in speed to a dangerous 20 mph. I tried to use my paddle shifters in hopes that would work, to no avail. I depressed the gas pedal to the floor and the speed did not change. I eventually reached a safe place and shut the car off, waited several minutes and attempted re-starting the car. The car sputtered and paused before eventually starting, then allowed me to drive approximately 100 yards before having the same decreased speed situation again. I was fortunate to drive home at 45 mph and avoid being run off the rode or rear ended by another vehicle or worse... a truck. The next morning I took the car to the dealership and after a diagnostic was informed that the fuel pressure sensor needed to be replaced. Not such bad news but I was shocked that the price quoted to me, by the service manager, is $900. Unbelievable!!! I searched all over the internet and found all the parts that are related to this type issue and nothing, not one part, cost $900. The proposed cost to repair my car is greater than the car payment. As a matter of fact, it cost more than the car payment for my wife's ML500. I have visited Kia forums that speak to problems with the Kia and it seems that a manufacturer is in order. Incidentally, the part is no longer covered by the warranty because I recently passed the 60,000 mile mark. I feel like I am being ripped off to have the car repaired for what will be less than an hour of work to replaced a minor part, that incidentally has a cost of $900. I will be willing to provide any other additional information related to my experience with my 2012 Kia Optima. I should be purchased and Audi.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- North Ridgeville, OH, USA