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Engine Won't Turn Over, Won't Start
2014 Jeep Cherokee
This problem may be covered under warranty. Ask your Jeep dealer.
CarComplaints.com Notes: There's no way around it, the Cherokee's transmission is junk. There's no other explanation for why a vehicle, usually with under 40,000 miles, would have so many complaints
9.0
really awful- Typical Repair Cost:
- $750
- Average Mileage:
- 32,150 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 6 complaints
Most Common Solutions:
- not sure (4 reports)
- replaced steering angle sensor (1 reports)
- starter motor (1 reports)
electrical problem
Helpful websites
- No one has added a helpful site for this 2014 Cherokee problem yet. Be the first!
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
click to see larger images
Ok, this is from Australia, so regarding a 2014 Jeep Cherokee Longitude 3.2L V6, Won't start, but has full power and a good battery. Plug in different scan tools and a laptop with 5 different scan programs and Holy Crap Batman, do we have a phone book of fault codes, including the mysterious U1504 "Manufacturer Dedicated Code". With the right software, you can actually find out what it is. Basically a garbage code because the PCM/ECM/TCM and every other module can't understand more than 5 words.
I contacted the local dealer, hoping for a bit of trade courtesy, as I work in an independent workshop, NUP, Got the standard, "That's unusual" and "We need to see it to diagnose" responses, guess they're using the same bulls** playbook as the U.S. It's out of warranty, so I really didn't expect any useful information. As for the constantly repeating fault codes, U1504, Implausible code length from ..........! Who cares where it's from, Implausible?? Seriously, who writes this software? Other 5 codes constantly reloading after clearing, Steering angle sensor, electric power steering module, both reporting codes to ABS module, which the ABS module is replicating to the power steering module. I'm thinking comms problem. Back to the starting issue, see photos.
I fully charged, tested and boost started battery, click. Persuade starter motor with small hammer while trying to start (yes I'm old school), still click. Try shorting across starter terminals, still click. Remove front bank CAT (well done dickheads, awesome engineering design) to remove starter, bench test starter, still click, remove rear plate (brush plate) and there it is, tiny little copper bridge from solenoid to brush pack blown apart from current load. Seriously, I've seen bigger starters on outboard motors. Back to the firmware and software in these pieces of s
. No fault code for an open circuit in the starter high current side?? But it has implausible codes.President Trump, if you want to make America great again, especially in the eyes of your trade partners, KEEP YOUR S*
IN YOUR OWN BACKYARD!- Chris W., Boronia Heights, Qld, Australia