This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My 2013 Veloster has 49,000 miles and it appears the rubber fitting inside the steering wheel has deteriorated. The wheel shakes and shudders violently. I'm unhappy that Hyundai has allowed owners of elantras to have their vehicles repaired under a service bulletin, but Velosters apparently do not qualify?
My steering wheel makes a clicking noise when turning or shifting the wheel from side to side. The steering wheel isn't tightly secured. In addition, the buttons on the steering wheel for voice control, etc. No longer works.
After approximately 78000 miles the steering wheel began making a clicking sound when turning left or right. The problem stems from a plastic piece that needs replacing but the cost is over $300 due to the entire steering wheel assembly has to be removed. Hyundai has issued a recall for the elantra's for the very same thing but not the Veloster. 1st major concern with vehicle but not pleased that hyundia wont own up to this brand problem. My cousin has a 2-door genesis and the same thing has happened to him at 30K miles.
On this model we are experiencing a violent shake in the steering wheel. The shake starts when the car reaches around 40 mph. There is a lot of play in the steering wheel. I had my mechanic inspect the issue and as soon as he sat down a moved the steering left and right he knew what the issue was. He said the problem is a plastic bushing located in the steering column. He said that this is happening a lot in Hyundai cars including the sonata. He has already replaced 4 in last couple of months and it seems to be happening right after the warranty expires. I am 10K miles over my 60K warranty and Hyundai said there is nothing they can do. It is now going to cost me around $400 to replace a $3 part. I looked online and this issue seems to be a regular complaint with numerous complaints online stating the same issue. I have been notified by my mechanic that if that plastic bushing wears out anymore and the plastic "teeth" on the bushing wear out anymore that we could lose the ability to steer the vehicle. We cannot even drive the car on the highway because the steering shakes so violently. We noticed the issue happening about a month ago and it has just gotten worse since. I'm currently having the issue repaired by my mechanic because Hyundai will not warranty the issue as they state they have never heard of this issue which I find hard to believe because I typed it in google and found more cases on this issue than I can count.
The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Veloster. While stationary and driving various speeds, the steering wheel shook violently. Doral Hyundai in doral, Florida was made aware of the failure and stated that the steering wheel coupling was faulty. The dealer stated that the failure was known to be an issue, but was not included in a recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was approximately 123,000.
Auto was stopped at a red light. When light turn green I pressed gas pedal auto did not move. All lights on dash board turned on, steering wheel locked, the auto transmission lever locked, ignition locked and brakes locked. Screen did not show what position if auto was on neutral, parked etc., some guys helped me push car to side of a street. After 4-5 minutes or so I was able to put my car in neutral and then after 5 or 6 minutes ignition unlocked and I was able to turn auto off.
The problem initially started with an errant tire pressure warning when in reality I had a faulty wheel speed sensor (right front). The tire warning light would clear when the ignition was turned off then back on but the problem would persist and progressed to the electronic steering disabling (no steering), the speed controls not functioning (no speedometer or cruise control), the traction control disabling (no traction control), and most worrisome is that the built in keyless ignition safety systems were disabled. This meant that the keyless ignition button (postioned 2 inches from the gear shift lever!) would and did turn the car off if inadvertatnly bumped. I down shifted on the freeway from 6th to 5th at approximately 65 mph and bumped the button completely shutting off the entire car. 65 mph and no control is horribly dangerous. The design is inherently flawed if a wheel speed sensor can disable the entire car at freeway speeds.
Vehicle slips out of gear often. Dealership cannot duplicate problem, and one dealer dismissed my complaint. Happens after accelerating from a stop when shifting from 1-2 but has happened when shifting 2-3 and it slips out and engine revs, disengaged from wheels (as if in neutral). This is when using it in normal mode, not sport or manual shift. There are numerous other complaints online in various forums (not yet on nhsta site it seems) this is very unsafe in traffic as the driver must stop accelerating, shift car into N and then back to drive to get it to work again.
At interstate speeds (60 mph and above),the vehicle's steering becomes unexpectedly heavy, and it seemingly takes an unusual (and possibly, momentarily alarming) amount of steering effort to keep the vehicle "centered" on the road.
My daughter was driving at a low rate of speed and preparing to make a left turn on surface streets. The steering wheel locked in place and she was able to stop the car. She kept the car running and continued to attempt to turn the steering wheel. After approximately 60 seconds of this activity the steering wheel returned to normal operation.
When driving the vehicle the back wants to step out of line when going over bumps, this is more pronounced when going around a curve. Also when the vehicle hits a patch of snow, during the transition on to the snow and off the car feels like the ends want to switch places. If one rear tire transitions onto snow or ice the entire rear of the car wants to travel that direction, it also does this when crossing asphalt patches. It is more pronounced on roads with vertical grooving in the concrete. There have been time when in light snow conditions I have had to go about 35-40 mph just to keep the car straight and in my lane. By doing so I became a rolling roadblock, as the other traffic did not have the same issue as I did. I did go through a BBB case with the vehicle, but neither time were the road conditions conducive to this issue, and per Hyundai everything is set to factory specs(which I do not doubt). There is an inherent design flaw with the rear suspension of this vehicle and if something is not done, lives may be lost.
When I entered the car and turned it on the steering wheel was locked. The engine was running and I could put it in gear but the steering would not turn. After I restarted the car a couple of times the problem was corrected but I am worried this will happen while driving and might cause a crash. This problem was repeated in 2 different occasions. Another issue that happened twice was that I would put the car in reverse and it would not move. Same issue was resolved. If this car is faulty and from the complaints I see that it is.. there must be something done about it!
As I was driving on the freeway, traveling down an interchange to another freeway, I depressed the gas pedal. Once I completely let off the gas, I started to apply the brakes. Just as I started to steer into the turn, the steering wheel locked up and I removed my foot from the brake pedal. The car started accelerating and braking on its own, without my application of any pedals. The wheels locked up without me applying the brakes. I was put into a four wheel slide where I was almost ran into an embankment. The wheels then unlocked prior to the possible impact and the vehicle started accelerating and braking again on its own. During this entire time, my steering wheel was still locked up. I was able to put my car in neutral and the car headed to the side of the freeway. The steering wheel was still locked up when I put the vehicle into the neutral position. The convulsions (random braking and accelerating) stopped once I put the car into neutral. With the car still unable to be controlled and traveling on the side of the freeway, I shut off the vehicle. Once the vehicle was restarted, the random braking and accelerating ceased and the steering wheel was no longer locked up. This could have ended very badly, not only for myself, but for others who may have been on the road at the time.
When driving the steering does not stay straight. When driving over a bump the steering is knocked off by a few degrees it does not straighten out again (for eg if it is knocked to 5 deg it won't go back to 0, instead it will settle on 1 or 2 degrees). This means a minor lapse in concentration could result in the car drifting into another lane.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Dania, FL, USA