This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My car is having issues describing what is happening in the recall, the engine is louder than when I go out it sounds like you're knocking noise and I just got it in September. I need to speak with somebody about this since it's not listed on the recall
Car has began doing this often now. At 115K miles. Start the car, put it in drive, car won't move. Put it in reverse. Same issue. Have to turn the car off and on and repeat until it moves. Occasionally I'll stop at a stop sign and go to move after stopping and again, it won't move. Engine just revs. Have to repeat above until it moves. Replaced camshaft sensor and knock sensor. Didn't fix it. Now the car dies while in park and stalls between 15-2000 RPM. There are several forums with the same issues and no one has a solid answer. And no recall. Insane. Taking it to Hyundai and considering a lawsuit with my evidence and all the other forums and complaints.
I contacted Hyundai motor of America to try to come to a resolution with an ongoing issue with Veloster vehicles. Back in 2015, I had to have my HVAC fan speed controller replaced due to it intermittently working. The controller was replaced in March of 2015 under manufacturer warranty. Now in December of 2016, the fan speed control started to show the same symptoms as before. Then one evening it stopped woking all together. Now, I am out of warranty by mileage, current vehicle mileage is 91000. I ended up taking apart the dash to inspect the failed part and found it to be melted/burnt. Once I found this, a couple days prior to total failure, I smelled and distinct plastic burning smell and I put it off as a vehicle that was in my close vicinity. But upon inspection, I found that it had in fact been my vehicle that smelled of burning plastic. This condition is exhibited while vehicle is stationary or in motion. I went looking around the countless Veloster forums and found that this is a common issue with these vehicles. The blower motor fan speed control switch is not made in a fashion to handle the higher current of high speed fan position (HVAC). The switch has caused the plug behind it to melt as well. I completely disassembled the switch and found multiple melting points/burn marks. The fuses in the vehicle for the blower motor are good. The blower motor itself is not pulling "excessive current". I have gone through and trouble shot the issue like any good technician would. This is when I contacted Hyundai about the issue. I recently heard back from them that they are not willing to call me, look at failed parts, or offer any assistance for the repair of a flawed in design and manufacturer part. This can end up being a fire hazard if someone does what I originally did and just set the fan to work on high speed only and continue to drive the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that the push to start button failed to start the vehicle. On several occasions, it was difficult to turn the vehicle off by using the push to start button. The contact stated that the failure caused the radio and the back up camera to become inoperable. The vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the battery needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the failure recurred on several occasions. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 54,871. Updated 06/29/16
Car often fails to start when turning the ignition key. The lights, and radio turn on when the ignition key is in, but when I turn the key to start I hear a click and the car is dead. If I repeat this several times the car may start normally. The problem stated several weeks ago. I have gone to the dealer twice. The first time they claimed it was the battery. They changed the battery (it cost me $100). This solved the problem for 2-3 days (or perhaps it was the warmer weather, see below). A week later the problem came back and the engine light came on. They replaced the oxygen sensor. This fixed the engine light issue. The car was ok for a day. The problem with failing start is back and it is getting worst. Yesterday it took me 5 minutes in the morning and 25 minutes at night to start the car. I got the feeling that the problem worsens in cold weather (I told that to the dealer the first time I brought it in, but they just ignored me). Each time I took it to the dealer the whether happened to be warmer (above 0 celsius). Last couple of days the temperature was below -3 celsius. Yesterday I parked the car inside my garage. This morning, with a temperature +4 celsius in my garage, the car started at the first try. I waited 10 minutes and tried again and the car again started at the first try. I will go to the dealer again this weekend. I tried different ways of starting the car with no success (1-clutch engaged and first, 2-clutch engaged and neutral, 3-neutral and no clutch, 3-different variations of radion on/off, as well as heater fan on, or off. The following may have been there always but now I notice since I am more aware of car sounds. There is a beeping sound when I enter the key and turn the dashboard on. That beeping sound last for about 10 seconds and ends with a click. The same happens after the car engine is turn off.
- Saint Louis, MO, USA
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Dealer says they can't replicate the problem. Vehicle has intermittent problems starting. When turning key in ignition, usually in colder weather in the mornings, vehicle will not start. There is just a 1-click sound per ignition cycle, but no ignition occurs. All lights come on dash, radio turns on, etc. Replaced battery due to failed battery test, but this did not fix the starter problem. I believe the starter assembly is starting to fail but the dealer has been very unhelpful. I drive a lot for work, especially to remote areas, and I'm going to get stranded eventually without any cell service.
Vehicle would not start. Smart junction box was found to be faulty due to a short in the wiring harness. In addition to the wiring harness needing to be repaired, the battery needed to be replaced. Was not covered under the warranty or extended warranty.
The date of 4/20/15 is the latest time(or by the way I have to wait till 5/22/15 to bring it in.... first day they had room for me......this is going to be the 4th time they have replace(over the past 2 years) the (97250-2V010-blh control assy-heat) because the fan dial don't work on 3 or 4 positions. When it gets real bad it don't work at all. The dealer is giving me a hard time because they have to replace again..... this is a common problem... and it needs to be fixed.... and when the customer brings it in with this problem they should just say they are sorry and fix it.
For the 4th time, my 2012 Veloster literally shut off while being driven. It does not stall. It shuts off entirely. No electric. No power. No nothing. Luckily, this has only happened when doing under 15mph or stopped at a light. If this were to happen on a highway or at high speeds, it is quite certain that I would be in an accident as there would be no way to alert other motorists that my vehicle cannot be driven - there are no brake lights or anything when it shuts off. When it shuts off, it is in drive. It cannot be put back into park. I have to put it into neutral to restart it. It does restart without hesitation. I did take it to my local dealer once and they were not able to locate any problem. I have done research on this and see that Hyundai has the same kind of problems most often with their Santa Fe models. I have checked to see if there has been a recall for this issue from Hyundai, but so far they have not addressed this issue.
Vehicle fails to engage starter during start sequence. Tried battery booster jump but no change in condition. Car has full power to all lighting and gauges but will not engage starter, all you hear is a "click" sound from engine compartment. Problem has been intermittent since car was towed to dealers on 11/25/13 for no start condition. Dealer was unable to duplicate problem but performed technical service updates to ECM & info ctr. Head unit. Frequency of problem has accelerated over past 4 days and now have to "pop start" the car by rolling it and letting out clutch in gear to start engine. This is a safety issue since the car can leave you stranded with no warning.
Purchased car on 5/5/2012 with 6 miles on it. Within less than a week and 200 miles the transmission began clicking. Took it into Hyundai and they stated it needed a new transmission. After 2 1/2 weeks the transmission was replaced as Hyundai refused to give me a different car. Since then the car cannot accelerate, sounds "clunky" and when going at low speeds sounds like the gear isn't engaging and sounds/feels like it would if you released a clutch too early. Car loses power and sounds like it's about to die. A hissing and rattling sound under the hood happens as well. After taking it in to dealer, dealer states they could not find the sounds or noises or loss of power I was having. Rpms rev really high before engaging in first gear. Dealer still won't do anything since they can't diagnose it. I have almost been in multiple accidents for failure of power and car not accelerating. Takes about 3-5 seconds before it goes. Brakes grab too easily as well. Loss of gas mileage (around 6-7 mpg) was reported to dealer but dealer told me it was due to "winter gas." I can understand 2-3 mpg difference but 6-7 is too much. Car has also been in the shop for a week for the car alarm going off constantly for no reason. A piece of the windshield plastic also fell off for no reason when car was 3 weeks old. Dealer duct taped that part down until a new part could be ordered.
Glass and visibility problem: In Feb. 2012 the large back glass (horizontal glass in the back door) in the car broke without any apparent reason. Temperature was normal at the time and no outside object was found in the car. It was a dangerous situation and very expensive fix. Hyundai company did not cover the repair cost under warranty. Electrical problem: From June 2012 too present, there is error message popping out that bluelink is active but not registered. After almost 4 months of contacting the customer service and dealer ship they were not able to fix this error message. Each time that I turn on the car, this message pups up which is distracting and dangerous. Apparently this is a common error with new Hyundai cars with bluelink.
The contact owns a 2012 Hyundai Veloster. The contact stated that the rear seat belts and the passenger air bags failed. The rear seat belts could not be release from the seat or retracted. The air bag warning light remained illuminated and the anti-theft unit activated independently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer several times for the failure. The dealer re-calibrated the passenger weight sensor however, the air bag failure was not corrected. The rear seat belts were not replaced and the anti theft system failure was unable to be duplicated however, the anti theft electrical system was updated. The manufacturer was made aware that the tail pipe released a black powder and the manufacturer advised the contact that the black powder was a normal phenomenon that they were aware of. The contact was advised by the manufacturer that they were working on issuing a remedy for the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 2,000 and the current mileage was 12,100.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Dayton, OH, USA