This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owned a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. The brakes failed while driving 60 mph and the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The driver pulled the vehicle to the side of the road and all the warning indicators illuminated. In addition, once the driver was able to pull the vehicle over to the side of the road, the vehicle was turned off but the engine remained operable. Upon inspection of the engine compartment, the contact observed flames. The fire department extinguished the flames. The driver did not see any smoke. The vehicle was towed to a salvage yard where it was deemed destroyed. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 61,000.
Engine failure seized during acceleration on to highway and lost power on to shoulder staled turned the car off tried to restart it, would not.it was towed to blue springs Hyundai were they diagnosed engine seized. Replacement ordered on long block due to metal.
I have had numerous electrical issues with my 2013 Sonata. First the radio stopped working shortly after purchase. Dealer replaced, no issues. Happened a second time, replaced again. My headlights have been replaced 3 or 4 times each and tail lights twice. Biggest issue has been the electric door lock on the driver's side - it does not lock using the fob or the exterior door handle button. Dealer at first tried to tell me I was nuts, in a very condescending manner, and then he experienced it. The transponder in the door lock has been replaced 5 times. The last time, they had to call Japan Hyundai and troubleshoot the issue. They had my car for a week before they determined that the actuator was shorting out the lock transponder, so they replaced that and it worked the longest it ever has, probably about 6 months. Now however the same lock does not lock using the fob or handle lock and it has been joined intermittently by the rear driver's side door. I lock the car using the fob/exterior lock button/interior lock button, and then have to open the front driver's side door and manually lock it. I also check the rear driver's side door, because sometimes it locks and sometimes it doesn't. the thought of having to go back to the dealer with this makes my stomach churn. Now my car has started to have a persistent metallic ticking/tapping noise that gets worse when I idle. Then it is more of a knock. I have received warranty extension information and also the class action notice related to sudden engine seizure and I am afraid that is what is next because all the notices and complaints I have read say it starts with engine knock and then the engine seizes. I have called the dealership and left messages 3 times and no one ever calls me back. I'm guessing it's because they know what's coming. My car has approximately 57K miles and I bought it new in May 2012.
My car had been having electrical problems and today I made an appointment to get it repaired and 5 minutes later the vast shuts off and won't turn on anymore. The dealer sausage it's because of rodents eating my wiring. And after a little research I come to find out the wiring is made of soy-based material. Apparently rodents love to eat thru them. And now I have to replace parts because of the wiring material.
- Chula Vista, CA, USA
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Engine began to knock then stalled shortly thereafter while driving on highway in a 75 mph zone. Engine oil light illumination, although it had just had an oil change for the 60K mile service earlier that morning.
Stalling engine and speed cruse control, if you put the speed control on 70mph, it shows your at 65 mph and trasmission; while on motion at 20mph and while accelerating from a stop at a steady increase in speed and it deceleartes by itself.
While driving at 55mph the engine just shut off. Was able to restart, but had an internal noise. Had it taken to garage to be told the wrist pin broke on cylinder 1 causing internal damage and engine would need replaced at a cost of about $4500 for a used engine. Have 129000 mile which are 65% all highway miles. Hyundai sent notice of internal engine issues right after the car hit 120000 miles. Interesting timing. Recommend NHTSA force Hyundai to make these issue right with owners.
The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the engine seized and would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 103,000.
I was driving home from work on the highway, and approximately 40 minutes into the ride the car struggled to accelerate while I was driving on the highway at about 65-70mph without a warning light or any type of warning display on the dashboard. The car hesitated when I put my foot on the gas to pass another car, or if I slowed down in traffic, it struggled to accelerate above 20 - 40mph. When I reached my exit, and came to a stop light, the gas pedal was all the way to the floor just so I could get up enough speed to go across the light, as well as accelerate so the car in back on me could go as well. The engine would hesitate, and when it did finally reach the right speed it was still not a smooth ride. When I reached my destination, I turned the car off, and turned it back on about 2 hrs later. The car started (with a little hesitation in the engine), although it still struggled to accelerate past 20mph. It was also hesitating, and felt as though it would stall. I drove the car to my mechanic, about a 15 minute trip on local roads. There were a couple of uphill battles, where I could barely get the car up the hill. My mechanic checked to see if there were any codes from the computer, and the code came back as 'turbo under-boost'. the turbo charge is dead. I have a turbo charged engine. Therefore, since the turbo booster is dead, it basically leaves the engine without little power!
Driving car on a main street with my kids and without warning lights in dashboard come on and car begins to stall. I try tomove to side of road and park and car as best I can on the side. Car turns off and doesn't turn back
Have car for 6 mos. Bought with 30K miles on it. Now at 42K. While driving on the highway/streets, all dashboard lights start flashing, speedometer/odometer go to zero then back up to 100 mph and then back down to zero, ac blows hot air, no power steering. Brought to dealership twice. First time, they said they didn't find anything and sent me on my way with the car. Happened again (obviously). Dropped it off a second time and they performed a "cluster" (whatever that is). That did not work. They kept the car. Mechanic saw what was going on during a test drive, but when checked in the shop, found nothing. They still have the car and I had to rent one. They are calling Hyundai, but have no idea when it will be done and their mechanics have never seen anything like this. Just my luck. I have video of this, but unfortunately no photos. Let me know if there is any way to send a video. Thank you!
Whilst driving on md 50 highway, in the right lane fortunately, the engine just stopped. The vehicle was coasted to the shoulder. When towed to my mechanic it was examined and the engine was seized. The symptoms are exactly the same as occurred with the 2011 and 2012 models of this car. It appears that the manufacturing problems are not fully resolved. The vehicle has since been towed to a Hyundai dealer for examination. (preston Hyundai, hurlock Maryland)
I received a warranty extension notification. Because of manufacturing process mistake there is a potential of a premature bearing wear on my vehicle. A worn connecting rod bearing will produce a metallic, cyclic knocking noise from the engine which increases in frequency as the engine RPM increases. If the vehicle continues to be driven with a worn connecting rod bearing, the bearing can fail, and the vehicle could stall while in motion, increasing the risk of a crash. I did address it to the dealer and requested a repair. I was told that there is no way to determine if my car is effected by this manufacturing defect, until the engine fail, or a crash happens. Such explanation is just not satisfactory. Hyundai offers an extended warranty up to 120000 miles. After that all I have to do is to keep my fingers crossed and face the potential of engine failure or crash. The cost of the repair is about 5000. That whole situation forces me to sell the vehicle before extended warranty expires ( 120000 ). as well as to take chances as far my safety. Extended warranty is just not enough in this situation. I want that defect to be corrected and my safety not to be compromised ( as well as significant potential expense potentially ).
30000 miles car started ti hesitate when accelerating. Car was taken to a mechanic then towed to dealer. Engine seized. Proof of oil changes provided however dealer claimed customer neglect. Negotiated from $7000 to $3000 to $1000 but only if I agreed to also have brakes changed by Hyundai otherwise deal was off. Engine replaced. Without car for approx 5 weeks.
Had about a month with how the car accelarated. The car made a lot of noise then the oil light would go on. Finally about 3 weeks ago, brought the car in due to an engine light, and was told the engine is burning oil, I knew that bc I was adding oil. Was told just today that the engine seized yesterday after I dropped it off and now I need to pay for it. Did I mention this is a lease and its only 42,000 miles on it? needless to say I have no car in a rental I have to pay for. Spoke to a few mechanics and was told its an on going problem with these cars. Great! but now im stuck w the bill of the engine or the early return lease bc the car is undriveable!!!
When I went to park the car and turn the engine off the horn began to honk as I tried to exit the vehicle. The hazard lights where flashing at the same time the horn was honking. I re ebtered the vehicle and tried sticking the key back in the ignition. No sound from the engine at all. Would not turn on. I adjusted the gears with the key & let it sit for 40 minutes. I was then able to start the vehicle. So annoying and stressful. I called the dealership and I was told that the car was out of warranty. I don't know if this was electrical or what but it was certaintly not the battery. All the lights in the vehicle came on even the radio. Four days ago I had fuses replaced for the radio and the door locks. I don't know if the vehicle not turning over/on/starting had anything to do with the fuses being replaced or not. Mileage 74,000.
Only had the car for a year. Driving down the road engine started knocking and car died. Had to have it towed to southern state Hyundai in raleigh nc and was told complete engine failure. 10 year 100,000 mile. Ran through Hyundai corporate and claim denied. Warranty won't cover it as they stated they found sludge from the oil. Can't guarantee this is what caused the engine to stop, but would cost more money to take engine completely apart. Quoted $6000-7500 for engine. There was no warning whatsoever, just knocking in the engine. We did 2 oil changes at the dealership and 2 or 3 at jiffy lube, so they state poor maintenance on our part. The 2011 and 2012 engines have been recalled for this same reason. So my engine for the 2013 has not been recalled but I am 2 weeks out waiting on an engine, no car and they won't help pay for a rental.
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- Baldwin, NY, USA