This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Failure of the Vehicle Power Supply system. ICCU failure. Car was alerting and would not go over 24mph. This is the result of a recall that I had already brought in the vehicle for in April, but they only performed a Pass/Fail test and at the time it "passed" so they didn't replace the ICCU and fuse that is required to be replaced. Two months later the car died, had to be towed and now has been at the dealership for two weeks already - 17waiting for the parts to come in. This is ridiculous because Hyundai is aware of this problem and is not fixing the issue, merely kicking the can down the road and then stranding owners for weeks without their vehicles. Unacceptable.
My Hyundai IONIQ5 suddenly lost power while I was driving it. I was only able to go 20 mph for a short period of time before it completely died. I had to have it towed
First indication something was going awry was when attempting to charge the car. Heard normal click indicating charge had started, but no audible announcement that charging had started. Car started throwing "Check electrical system, " then power plummeted and became unresponsive to accelerator, followed by "Stop car. Check electrical system, " then finally something like, "Battery is being discharged by external devices."** Car had to be towed about 60 miles to nearest Hyundai EV service center. Eight days later, I got a call from service saying that the ICCU needs to be replaced. They will update me once ETA of part is known.
The vehicle made a loud popping noise and lost motive power. Dashboard lit up with battery symbol and said to check electric vehicle system. Dealer service is certain it is an ICCU failure. The vehicle had the software update to -??fix-?? the ICCU issue thousands of miles ago.
The car loses power, slows down dramatically, and will not respond to the accelerator pedal. This failure has happened twice. The first time I was driving at about 40MPH on a side street when the car started slowing down with no warning and limped along at about 20MPH. I could not get it to move faster so I put my flashers on and made my way to the side of the street, pulled off of the road and shut the car off. When I restarted the car it drove normally. I reported the failure to Hyundai and they had never heard of this happening. They kept the car for 2 days and couldn't replicate the problem. That was about 2 months ago. Yesterday, 3/4/24, I was on the freeway going about 74MPH using the smart cruise control. I had just changed lanes when the car lost power and I got the message, "Smart cruise conditions not met." My speed dropped to the low 40's as other cars were whipping past me. Even though I floored the accelerator I got no response. I started the flashers, made my way to the right lane and got off on an exit ramp. I pulled off to the side of the ramp, parked the car and turned it off. Once again, when I restarted the car it performed normally. This is very dangerous! I could have easily been rear ended by another, faster car on the freeway since I slowed down so quickly without braking lights lighting. I brought it back to the dealer again today and they have kept it to run diagnostics. I don't expect that they will find any problem this time either.
- Irving, TX, USA
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I heard a pop from the rear of the car and warnings came up on the dash. The vehicle was power limited and needed to be towed to the dealer. It was diagnosed as an ICCU failure and blown fuse. This was the problem supposedly addressed in Hyundai TSB 997 (NHTSA ID Number: 10240086). That service was performed on the vehicle in September 2023. We were lucky the incident occurred on a city street and not on a freeway or rural highway where the sudden loss of power could have been very dangerous. The software fix applied under Hyundai-??s TSB clearly did not fix the issue.
Driver was moving forward into a space in a parking garage between two other vehicles. Driver had pulled most of the way in and was slowly inching forward. As the car came to a stop, it suddenly lurched forward, hitting a concrete wall. The collision warning system did not alert, and auto-braking did not occur. The car was in Regen Level 3, and Auto Hold was not activated. In the months prior to this, the car twice had a similar situation when coming to a stop at an intersection with foot on the brake, then suddenly lurched forward, nearly rear-ending a car in front. There was no visible damage to the concrete wall, and a police report was not made. Hyundai says they want to inspect vehicle, but have not done so after a month. It is easy to believe that this was driver error, but it absolutely was not. Car lunged forward and accelerated into a wall with only the brake being applied. All of these events have occurred after the Hyundai Ioniq 5 software update was applied on 26 Sep 2023.
Driving the vehicle on the highway for longer than 60 miles at highway speeds the vehicle goes into -??power limited-?? mode and a turtle pops up on the screen. You are unable to accelerate the car and once this happens you have to leave the car off for at least 5 minutes and then not drive above 65mph again or it will keep happening over and over. After taking it to the shop Hyundai Corporate said we need to drive the car again to see if they had fixed it. Approximately 65 miles into the trip it happened again and this time I was almost rear ended and cars were swerving around me on the shoulder to avoid crashing into me. Hyundai is saying that they cannot reproduce the issue but they are not driving the car on the highway for more than 60 miles. The safety of not only myself and my family is at risk as well as other people on the highway behind and next to us. The vehicle is currently at the dealership and they said there are no error codes so they don-??t know what-??s wrong. The only warning that popped up said -??power limited-?? with a turtle.
Driving on the freeway at approximately 70 mph, the car lost the ability to accelerate and started to lose speed. I had my foot on the gas but the speed was dropping. There were no warning lights, messages, or other alerts prior to the loss of acceleration. The screen remained on during the loss of acceleration but a phone call was lost. Safety at risk for obvious reasons. I was able to put hazards on and move to the left-hand shoulder. I turned the car off and on again and was able to speed up again to merge onto the freeway. For the remainder of the drive (approx 25 min), everything was fine. We have not taken the car in yet for inspection. The car charge was over 50%. I had driven the car on the freeway with no issues for an hour earlier in the morning, for 15 min in the city, and then for another 25 minutes on the freeway prior to the incident.
The car does not switch from Reverse to Drive under certain conditions, resulting in uncommanded reverse motion. Gear selection on the Ioniq 5 is controlled by a twisting knob at the end of a stalk on the steering column. Drive is selected by turning upwards, Reverse by turning downwards. The moving part springs back into the neutral position once a gear is selected. Occasionally the car does not switch from Reverse to Drive. This is extremely dangerous as the vehicle shoots backwards when the driver is expecting it to move forward. A driver will likely press the accelerator more firmly after having physically moved the gear selector to Drive and expecting the vehicle to move forward. Since this happens after backing up, it is likely that obstacles or persons are behind the car when this happens, and absent a very fast reaction by the driver this will result in accidents and injuries. The issue is triggered when the car is not at a complete standstill when Drive is selected. Even barely noticeable residual backward motion triggers it. There is no haptic feedback to alert the driver that the car ignored the driver input. As drivers are expected to pay attention to their surroundings when maneuvering, visual feedback (via the gear indicator on the stalk and possibly a dashboard notification) is not useful. There is a small auditory cue, but it is easily missed when in a conversation or listening to music, especially because the car frequently dings, pings, and beeps for other reasons. Not to mention, hearing-impaired drivers will also miss this. The driver should not be able to physically move the gear selector into the Drive position when the car is not accepting that input - the twisty bit should be locked out to prevent this. Or at the very least, if a crucial driver input is discarded, the car should instead default to a safe behavior, i.e. put the car in Neutral instead of Reverse.
Driving on freeway when adaptive cruise control turns off and had a sudden complete loss of acceleration, we had steering and brakes only. Sudden reduction of car speed in traffic could cause accident. Has only happened once in 20k miles. (no acceleration) Adaptive cruise control shuts off for no reason, but dealer couldn't replicate. In recent 8k trip we photographed warning on dash 17 + times after shut down. Dealer couldn't find any saved trouble codes for this. No warnings prior to any occurrence only after, dash turned off on acceleration loss.
After owning and driving the 2023 Ioniq 5 for about 4 months, the car was driven from Massachusetts to Arizona. After driving across the county at 75 mph about 50 min on cruse control the car began to lurch, the speed would drop about 3 mph below the cruse control set point, then accelerate to a mile faster than the set point and then settle down to the set point. This would happen multiple times during the next 100 miles before stopping to charge. After charging and again on cruse control at 75 mph or so, the lurching would begin again. After the lurching started, the power display indicated the front motor on this dual motor vehicle was doing all the work to drive the car, and the rear motor was no longer functioning. Later it was confirmed that the rear EOP (electric oil pump) which cools the rear motor was not functioning at all. As a result the rear motor would increase to more than 170 degrees F and stop operating. No DTC was stored for the EOP Actual Speed of zero (despite an EOP Command Speed for 800-3000 rpms). No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Temperature overheat. No DTC was stored for the MCU Motor Actual Torque of zero when it was commanded for something more. Fortunately the Hyundai Ioniq 5 did command the front motor to take over even though the rear motor was no longer functional, so the car was able to maintain speed most of the time. However, the car is normally 325 hp with both motors. Accelerating with only the 95hp front motor on a heavy car was very slow, both in traffic and on the highway. The lack of performance could easily surprise an unsuspecting driver resulting in a collision or worse. I know of at least 5 owners who have experienced this issue. In each case Hyundai has been slow at best and refused to repair at worst. The issue is without DTC but can none the less be easily diagnosed by observing the ODB EOP Actual Speed (when the car is driven) will be zero with an EOP Command Speed >0.
I drove on the freeway around 70 miles/H last July 14th, 2023 with my wife. But suddenly the speed dropped down after I dropped my car at NORM REEVES Hyundai dealer. They keep 4 days for the test. They said all test is OK. But I am afraid to drive on the freeway. I Leased Jun 17th, 2023 new IONIQ5. Is this OK" What should I do"
Occasionally, the vehicle sometimes doesn't start and allow me to engage to Drive gear from being turned off/Parked. I sometimes have to turn the car off and back on 1-2 times for the car to start like normal and allow me to select drive or reverse. Additionally, I have never been able to successfully sync my vehicle with my hyundai bluelink account despite efforts to troubleshoot with Bluelink representatives.
EV goes into power limited mode when on interstate when going ~50 miles while driving 70mph or more. Happened each of my 3 times on interstate of about that distance. First time was Sat 4/29 while in eco mode with 70% battery and 82?F outside, 1 hr drive 50+ miles. Second time was in normal mode Friday 5/12, 55% battery 72?F outside 1 hr drive 50+ miles. Third time was in normal mode and it happened after 42 miles. I scheduled a service after the first incident but they were only able to take it on 5/31. When this happens you lose ability to accelerate and have to coast to the side of road and let it sit for 10+ minutes to clear and then can resume, I would take surface roads after it occurred. Impacts safety for self and others, as it drastically slows without brake lights causing a high chance of being rear ended. The last incident was close to it. As it was getting worse I stopped driving on interstate with it. Car has been at the dealership's service department since 5/31. They were able to easily reproduce once they finally got to it. They diagnosed a bit and then consulted design engineers. Diagnosed on and off for a couple weeks and have finally decided to replace the drive motor. Part received Friday 6/16, to be installed tomorrow 6/20. We'll see if that addresses.
When using the most aggressive braking energy recovery mode in the Hyundai Ioniq 5 (i-Pedal), the brake lights do not illuminate despite the aggressive nature of the braking provided by this mode. This mode brings the car to a full and complete stop and is very similar to commanded braking via the brake pedal. When using the L1-L3 braking energy recovery modes, the deceleration experienced by the car is more or less mild enough that it would be similar to a downshift in a manual transmission car. But the brake lights only illuminate if your foot is fully off the accelerator pedal. I am not aware of the regulations or SAE guidance to know if this is consistent with best practice, but it could be better with the brake light coming on once a certain deceleration (x m/s2) is reached. It is my opinion that a software change in the car's ECU could effect a fix for this. A mandatory recall would force the issue with Hyundai to actually do something about it. Note that Kia and Genesis share the same basic EV platform and may share the same logic fault in brake light activation. Here is a Youtube video that discusses the issue in a fair level of detail - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0YW7x9U5TQ
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Haverhill, MA, USA