This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The engine of my vehicle malfunctioned. It is available for inspection upon request, it will have to be towed. The problem put myself and others in danger as the car stopped as I was driving in the middle of a 3-lane highway in the far left lane. Others were put in danger as they had to swerve to avoid hitting me. That itself could have caused a chain collision as other vehicles in the middle lane were put in danger. I was also at risk to get rear ended as one might not notice that my speed has stopped increasing. I have already had it towed to a local Hyundai dealership and auto shop; both said it needs a new engine. Towing receipt is shown below. I had no warning lights on my dash prior to the engine failure. A battery light and check engine light appeared after I was able to safely pull to the side of the road and try to start the car again.
My vehicle keeps shutting down while I-??m driving. It happened 5 times in the past week and twice today. It happens when I-??m driving slow to make a turn or after the car has been stopped for a while (i.g. stop light and drive through window). Three out of five times were in areas where I could safely restart my car. The other two were in the middle of a busy expressway while making a turn and passing through a busy intersection. I was almost hit from behind. The car that swerved to avoid hitting me was also nearly hit by a vehicle in the other lane. I-??ve done research and several other people had this issue but there-??s no recall on my car. I don-??t know if it-??s a battery issue or electrical wiring, etc., but it is terrifying. Each time it happens my vehicle makes a strange rattling nose and I can-??t quite tell where it-??s coming from. The car also shakes for a while afterwards.
Car would just stall out while driving! Would have to put car in park and then try to turn back on. Also burning through oil very fast. Had to replace the timing belt just for 20K miles later having the same issue!
Since buying my vehicle new, it has had three ignition coils fail at different times. The car begins to shudder, rough idle, not accelerate and all of a sudden just will not respond to giving it gas. This happens at any speed therefore it is a danger especially entering or exiting highways or switching lanes. It has been unpredictable. The check engine light does come on some of the time as this problem is occurring, not before. The dealer replaced the first two coils (51, 576 miles and 56, 446 miles) under the warranty. The third coil replaced (78, 391 miles), they would not cover under warranty, nor would they replace the 4th coil as a precaution.
Originally I had gottem my oil changed at the Hyundai dealership 2 months before. The car was turning off on me while driving making slow turns or slowing down to 5mph or less. Then my car broke down on me and wouldnt turn on. Mechanic was saying there was no oil in and it created a sludge in the engine basically ruining the car. My check oil light never came on, and the oil was just recently changed so this shouldve been apart of the recall where similar issues happened.
- Ocala, FL, USA
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I bought my 2017 Elantra SE 2.0 in April of 2020 my car keeps stalling when I let off the gas and when I make turns left or right at low speeds very scary and unsafe and also engine noises and shakes real bad sometimes as well I still owe 20000 for this lemon Hyundai should be held responsible for this as its been a serious problem for years from what I read very dangerous this happens on city streets and expressway
The issue has happened while my vehicle has been stationary and in motion, on a ciy street, on a highway and while turning. The check engine light comes on as the car shakes. If I'm in motion, the light will stay on while my foot is on the accelerator, turn off when I take it off the accelerator and come back on when it reaches 1rpm's. if I'm stopped it will jump forward when I press the gas to accelerate (the whole time the check engine light is on). While I'm stationary, it will stay on while it's at 1rpm's or below. I have gone to the dealer a couple times already to get to the bottom of it. The first time they told me it had to do with my spark plugs so I did the service to get that taken care of. The second time I went they told me they couldn't find any code to indicate a problem. Here we are again and I'm having the same issue. This is dangerous and needs to be address as I've currently read many 2017 Hyundai Elantra owners are having the same issue. I don't see the benefit of bringing it to the dealer again if I'm just going to pay for a service that isn't going to rectify the problem and they continue to say there is no problem. I do have video to show the problem.
2017 Hyundai Elantra car started stalling at red lights and when stopping. Almost crashed twice. It starts back up. It started 10\12\20. It happened a few times and then the check engine light came on with code P3006. About 20 miles it went off. This is very dangerous and needs to be fixed. A lot of people is complaining about the same issue. It need to be recalled and repaired.
In February 2020, my check engine light came on after my car began to shake violently and lose speed as I drove on the city streets and highways.the serviceman replaced the coils in my car. Within a week, my car started to shake and lose speed again. I took it back to the dealership where they "fixed" it again to no avail. In early March, my car was still experiencing the same problems: Shaking violently and losing speed as I drove on both the highway and on city streets. I chose to try a different service center. They attempted to find a problem with my car by running the codes, but he said that nothing popped up on the screen. I told him that my check engine light flashes on and off when I put my foot on and off of the accelerator. He sent me on my way without fixing my car, but he told me to bring my car back into the service center without shutting off my car as soon as the check engine light comes on the dashboard. He told me that this was important, because it would help them be able to detect the issue. Within 15 minutes of pulling off of the parking lot, my check engine light flashed back on and my car began to shake and lose speed again. I turned around immediately and took my car back. They flushed out the fuel line system. Within two weeks, I brought my car back for the same thing, but the serviceman told me that he could not find any issues since the computer showed no issues. Every time I take my car into a Hyundai repair center, they tell me that they cannot detect any issues with my car, although I tell them that my car begins to shake and lose speed randomly. It is now Sept. 2020, and I am still having the same issues. I am scheduled to take my car into a new Hyundai service center in a new state. This is a dangerous car problem that threatens the safety of me and other drivers on the road. Hyundai needs to take action now!
Once again the car began to shake violently and started lunging forward while driving within city limits. Check engine warning light came on. I pulled over and shut the car off. When I restarted the car, the check engine light was no longer illuminated and the car seemed to drive somewhat normally. This was not the first time this happened, and from what I can tell by reading other similar complaints on the NHTSA website, several people are having these issues as well. It appears to be the ECM, engine control module. Hyundai needs to address this issue asap. It is very dangerous to drive this vehicle. Do not allow them to say you need new spark plugs or a software update. This is a safety issue that needs a recall immediately.
The car cuts off while driving.it stalls N traffic like it won't go N I almost have been hit several times.there is no check engine light on.very dangerous N scares me when I drive cause U never know when it's going to cut off N traffic or while turning.
I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. Started having problems with picking up speed rpms jumping and feeling like the car doesn't want to go. This started at 7,000 miles and I bought the car brand new off the lot it has been in over 8 times for this issue and have been told that nothing is wrong with the car or that because my car is not throwing check engine lights they wont fix it under warranty, or I'm not using a Hyundai approved gas station so this is why I'm having problems with the car, now at 29,000 miles still having problems its the worst on the expressway in stop and go traffic.now I went to have my oil changed and found out I was low on 2 quarts of oil and my spark plugs have oil on them once again the car has to go back to the dealership, I was made fully aware of what could happen if the engine goes. I just really hope I'm not on the expressway when this happens, at the begin of the year I noticed when I would come to a stop my heat would drop and become luke warm it has now been into the dealership 3 times the thermostat has been replaced but I have been told that this is normal Hyundai vehicles do this. My heat is dropping at least 58 degrees when idling and my window is having a hard time defrosting unless I'm driving.
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the brake pedal was depressed but was firm. Additionally, the vehicle failed to respond when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The vehicle was taken to gene messer Hyundai (4025 w loop 289, lubbock, tx 79407) however, the mechanic was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was then taken to an independent mechanic where the contact was notified of NHTSA campaign number: 17V063000 (service brakes, hydraulic) however, the vehicle was not included. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 75,000. The VIN was invalid.
The car is slow accelerate like something is wrong with it. It started the year 2018. The care was purchased 2/17/17 with 25 miles on it. The dealer claims they can find nothing wrong.
"takata recal" the air bag light keeps turning on. Feel loss of power when driving speed limit under fourty-five also suddendley looses power when going the speedof seventy-seventy-five speed in the highway speed drops to fifty-five feels like it wants to stop. Afraid of getting hit from behind also hesitates when driving the speed limit under fourty-five feels like it wants to stop. Also the front wheel aligment light keeps turning on when ithecar is in motion and the airbag light also turns on when the car is in motion. These thing have been happening since April 2018 my car has only 41, ooo miles on
Puchase my Elantra in June 2017, when it rain or first thing in the am the brakes will make a sound like I need new breaks and like the rotor need replaced. I took it in and they said everything was find. One year later still have the same problem. The seatbelt light comes on and continues to beep with no one sitting in the seat and the only way I can get it to go off is to snap the seatbelt. Sometimes I have access to my bluetooth phone and sometimes it doesn't work or the display is not accessible
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. While driving at unknown speeds, the accelerator pedal was applied and traveled to the floorboard. The vehicle hesitated and stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to cardinale way Hyundai (2525 wardlow rd, corona, ca 92882), but the failure was unable to be duplicated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. Additionally, the vehicle was taken to riverside metro auto group (8330 Indiana ave, riverside, ca 92504), but they were also unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 17,000.
3 occurrences: Leave from parking space- turn on engine- wait until tachometer goes to 1- with foot on brake, shift into D- tachometer reaches 5 on speeding engine before able to turn off ignition. Driving very slow- with foot on brake- in forward to large parallel parking- speeds up- brakes spongy- does not stop car. Only high curb prevents car from climbing on sidewalk and giving me time to turn ignition off. Stopping at traffic light on road with a 35 mile speed zone. After stop, brake becomes spongy, car's wheels begin skidding- can only turn off ignition to stop the car. Everything back to normal when I turned ignition back on, as was the case with the first and second occurrences listed above. Vehicle was stationary in the first occurrence, was in motion in a park in the second occurrence and on a county road with a slight turn to the left in the third occurrence.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Phoenixville, PA, USA