This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Since January 2024 I have had issues with my car starting due to low oil. I just had an oil change so I knew something was wrong. The repair shop stated there were no leaks and put more oil in and said that sometimes the car will not start if there is not enough oil. February 2024 and the car wont start again. Filled it with oil and took it to the shop again. They stated that the engine is eating the oil and to take it to the dealer for a test. Since then the car has turned off multiple time both while idling and while on the freeway. When you hit the gas it will not accelerate either. In the past I was able to turn the car off and back on again and it would work just fine but now it seems more frequent. Also, while driving when experiencing these issues I have had the stereo screen shut off and restarted by itself. At times the slippery when wet alert will also show on the dashboard which has been a sign for me that they car is going to act up so I turn it off right away and back on then it runs.
Loss of engine power, car shuts abruptly off while driving. increases the risk of a crash and death. Less than a year after I purchased my car from the dealer. My check engine light would turn on and off frequently. Secondary mechanics couldn-??t diagnosis problem engine check would show unnecessary/ different codes. Car burns oil at a very fast rate. Shut of three times while driving yesterday on the LIE. I am scared for myself and my families safety. I can-??t afford a new engine or car. Please help The 2017 Electra SE has many recalls for make and model. My vin isn-??t under recall.
I bought my used Hyundai Elantra 20017 in July of 2022. It's at the shop again for the same thing. While driving, it will just shut off. In traffic. My son was with me a few times when this happened, almost causing accidents. It's in the shop, second time, for engine failure! This car is crap and needs a recall on the engine before someone/ people get hurt while they are driving it.
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the contact stated that while decelerating, the vehicle independently turned off. Additionally, the check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact restarted the vehicle and drove to the destination. The contact stated that the vehicle then failed to restart. The vehicle was towed to the dealer; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed. The contact was informed that an engine teardown needed to be completed before the cause of the failure could be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a case was filed. The failure mileage was approximately 117,000.
When I stop at stop signs or stop lights, the car will stall out. I have to turn off the car fully, turn it back on, and immediately step on the gas pedal in order to start the car up again. This was incredibly dangerous as the first few times this happened, the stoplights had turned green, but I could not move the car. I am also afraid that the car could potentially stall in the middle of driving. The engine light has turned on and the car was inspected by Hyundai and a third party auto shop. The third party auto shop informed me that they had seen multiple models of my car with the same issue. The car is available for inspection upon request.
- Cordova, TN, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
The car randomly dies on de-acceleration. It gives no warning and I have seen online this is a known issue with this year/model. I have 55,000 miles on it, it's been regularly serviced. When I got to slow down then start to accelerate it shuts off. I've nearly been hit multiple times going to merge from a stop. It's very dangerous. I've replaced all 4 spark plugs, all 4 ignition coils, air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, PCV valve and I've only owned it 6 months. No engine light comes on and no reader is picking up any codes. I'm at a loss as to what causes this.
Car will lose power and quit suddenly on the highway with no warning lights. It has happened twice in the last month on a trip both times. Light-??s low beam randomly won-??t turn on either but high beams work. Had it into the Hyundai dealership and another mechanic shop but cannot find the problem.
The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving to the emergency room at approximately 50 MPH, the vehicle began to lose motive power and the contact had to pull to the side of the road. The contact stated that when the vehicle was restarted, there was a knocking noise coming from the engine. The contact continued to drive the vehicle to the emergency room, and after leaving emergency room when the vehicle was started, the knocking sound continued. The contact stated that while coming to a stop light, the oil and check engine warning lights illuminated. The contact drove to a nearby gas station where 2.5 quarts of engine oil was added to the vehicle however, the engine continued making the knocking sound. The contact discovered an unknown NHTSA Campaign related to the engine however, the VIN was not included. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed with Low Oil Pressure, Low/No Engine Oil, Lower End Rod Block, and the dealer recommended that the engine be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was opened. The failure mileage was approximately 131,000.
My car has been stalling shortly after purchasing when slowing down and turning. Then it started stalling on the freeway which is a safety big time issue multiple times. Dealership spoke of maintenance they said it needed. They changed a part and parts on my car has been changed multiple times it doesn-??t make since.
When driving about a month ago my car all the sudden started making a clinking noise not so much knocking in the engine or near the engine. And then it died all the sudden at a red light out of no where. Well I put the car into park and started my car again when I accelerate the rpm takes a lot longer to catch up to the speed I'm trying to go, so it takes longer to accelerate which is dangerous because cars usually accelerate alot faster than that and I almost got rear ended twice because of it. I parked it for a few days but moved recently so I had to move the car it started and everything but the knocking, or clinking was still there. The following day I went to start my car and know it won't even start and the anti theft light comes on, on my dash board. So now my car is stuck at a motel because of it. I think it may be the crank shaft position sensor. Yes my vehicle is available for inspection upon request. No my vehicle has not gotten in any accidents. It has not been inspected by a manufacturer.
Entire engine needs to be replaced due to cylinder malfunction. My safety was at risk because the car would turn off randomly at red lights or when making wide turns. Sometimes, the car would not start and sometimes it would. The problem has been confirmed by an independent service center. No messages or lights appeared indicating an engine issue.
The Issue started back in December of 2023.The Engine failed while driving to Lake Worth, TX. Vehicle Information: Model is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Limited 2.0 Engine, US Built. Mileage during the1st incident was at 100,125 miles and the VIN Number is [XXX]. I was on a Maintenance plan the first 2 years with Clay Cooley Hyundai of Dallas with Dealership Warranty when I first purchased the vehicle back in 2017 so I kept up maint.Stalling began & was making a significant tapping noise.Dgnstcs were performed and I initially got Misfire codes P0303, P0300 &P0301. Ignition coils and sprk plugs were observed and replaced. Instantly following I ran another diagnostic and began receiving Camshaft codes P011.The VVT Solenoids were also replaced and this still did not resolve the issue. I was losing oil after every oil change and the oil was not lubricating the engine. I then took to a local shop and they said engine was beyond repair and had it towed to dealership. loud knocking noise from the engine that increases in frequency as the engine rpm increases. Then there is Reduced power and/or hesitation and vibration. With these issues the Illumination of the -??check engine and Engine Oil Pressure-?? light come on in the instrument cluster. Safety Concerns: Stalling and Shutting off of the engine while driving at accelerated speeds is a Dangerous Manufacturing issue that could have resulted in a major car crash not only jeopardizing our safety but the safety of other drivers. Similar Incidents: There have been several reports and forums that we have read that report the same issues with their Elantras. Impact on You: This has impacted me Tremendously as the Dealership states that they cannot assist with the Damages and that I would have to come of pocket by paying over $8,000 to replace the engine. Financially this is beyond my means in what I can afford and stalls my primary source of transportation for commuting back and forth to work, taking care of day to day priorities. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFO
Just to clarify, the vin number claims my vehicle is a 2017 Hyunda Elantra-?? but it is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra LIMITED, which there are differences in the design/model of the vehicles. The vehicle was not inspected at time of purchase like originally mentioned to me in our agreement. (They only transferred my registration to the new vehicle) I had done nothing out of the ordinary to the vehicle, after inspection the vehicle then displayed a check engine light and would not start after leaving work for the day. It then began to stall every time I applied pressure to the brake or slowed down. After inspecting the issue at Empire Hyundai they said the camshaft had been sheered by the cvvt pin and extensive repairs were needed. This happened in November 2023 and I have not been operating the vehicle since. I have gone through multiple sources to try to have this repaired by the dealership on their cost not mine due to me just purchasing the vehicle and this type of issue is a well known issue in Hyundais after they reach 100,000 miles- which I just surpassed.
Car has faulty engine. Have spoke to mechanics all over the state saying Hyundai Elentras have engines that are bound to die on you. Car started out stalling while driving on highway at about 85,000 miles, I bought it used at 78,000. Have replaced the vvt solenoids because this is what the engine light codes have said were the problem. I have been to hyundai dealerships and they aren't doing anything because its no recall even tho since 2017 people have been reporting this problem all over the internet. Mechanic says I have another 2,500 miles if that left on the engine even though its barely at 120,000 miles. Ive seen online people having to get new engines as low as 50,000 miles. This is a obvious problem and with Hyundai-??s being a foreign car I would think the government would push for a recall on there faulty products.
For the past two weeks, the car has intermittently stalled out and the engine, oil, and battery lights come on. The dashboard electronics and radio stay on. When this happens, I have to put the car in park and turn it off, then turn it back on. It has restarted immediately each time and drives normally. It has stalled out multiple times in a day, but not everyday. I took it to my mechanic twice to pull an error code from the warning lights, but he could not. My safety and the safety of others were put at risk when it stalled out while I was deaccelerating on an exit ramp that merges with three other lanes. I could have been hit from behind by others exiting the interstate highway or hit on either side of my car from drivers switching lanes at that junction. It stalled out the same day in the middle of a roundabout, where drivers yield and merge at 30 mph. I've noticed that when it stalls out, I'm usually braking or the vehicle is turning. The car is currently at the mechanic, who has not yet been able to reproduce the stalling and warning lights, but he did pull a diagnostic trouble code: P010600; Description: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. He's not sure if it's a faulty sensor or if something is causing the trouble code since the warning lights weren't on with the code. The car has not yet been inspected by the dealership or others.
The index pin from the CVVT got stuck in my exhaust camshaft. I have replaced multiple sensors hoping those were the issue and not my CVVT and Exhaust Camshaft
The doors will randomly stop working intermittently causing passengers to be stuck in the vehicle and in the event of an emergency making it difficult to safely exit the vehicle. The vehicle while In motion the engine would not function probably and would be flashing different engine light but never a code and the engine would stop
The entire engine failed and threw a rod on cylinder 3. My safety has been put at risk twice since the beginning of the engine troubles. The safety issue is I was merging onto a busy highways just fine until the accelerator wasn't doing anything. So frantically I had to start checking Visuals and there were none. There weren't any warning signs of the impending doom of the engine. It would just die out of no where like someone unplugged it, but then it would start right back up. Upon Making it home safely, thankfully. I start looking at all the basics and decided to change the oil as well as it was coming due in mileage very soon. To my surprise I was a missing half of the oil I put in it last change. There are no oil puddles or marking where I park my car nor have I seen any oil leaks after driving it for a while. It's like the oil disappeared. Needless to say the oil was quite dirty looking but no metal chunks or pieces and low some how. That same night I was driving and out of no where I heard a knocking and within seconds of that mh car died/stalled/seized up. Rendering the car useless and could of been a very serious safety issue has it happened in traffic. I couldn't stare it or anything, buy luckily somehow just made it to the shoulder barely before it stopped for good. 2 questions. 1) where did my engine oil go as I know I put just under 5 qts of fresh oil in it in August and only a couple months later the issue started and I had almost been running the engine dry due to excessive oil consumption of the engine amd I never received a low oil light or anything warning on the dashboard 2) how the heck did the original brakes last longer than the not even 7 year old engine? 3) why is nothing being done to help us out as I seen hundreds of the same type of complaint. Low oil engine from excessive consumption, the random power cut offs, and the knock emanating from the same exact place as others in the engine. BigManufacturers defects
The number 3 cylinder threw a rod through the cylinder wall. Previous to this happening the car HVAC fan wouldnt turn on unless switched to the on position and waited a while then it would suddenly turn on. It also would randomly shut down, not a stall, or the engine would lose power which happened to me the first shutdown of the engine merging onto the highway creating a huge safety problem. None of the warning lights were on and the car gave no indication of what was wrong or going on. The only time I got a warning light was a after the engine threw the rod. It shut down multiple times and/or had a loss of power. The engine only has 130k miles on it. Has been well taken care of with regular oil changes. It showed 0 signs before throwing the rod and made no noise. I'm only submitting it, because I can't be the only one who had this experience and would like there to be a record of it in order to ensure the safety of others and myself on the road.
The initial problem was that the car began to stall out at slower speeds. This caused potential accident situations because of the sudden loss of control. We brought it to a service station which could not identify a specific problem. The car continued to experience this problem, so a couple of days later we brought it to a second service station. They thought it might be the crankshaft position sensor, so replaced that. While the second service was working on the car, they noticed a quiet knocking noise, which caused them to check the oil, which they found to be 3 quarts low, despite the fact that we had had the oil changed about 2 months (2,000 miles) earlier. There had been no warning light that the oil level was low prior to the service station checking it, and there was no indication of an oil leak. When we drove away from the second service station, the engine noise began getting much louder and the car again started stalling suddenly, so we brought it back to the service station. They indicated that the engine had likely been ruined as a result of the low oil situation, and suggested that we have it towed to a Hyundai dealership so they could address it. We did that, but Hyundai, after taking months to provide a response, determined that the problem was not one they would take responsibility for. We have done research and seen other consumers have this exact same problem, with similar non-support from Hyundai. I am also aware that there was a class action around this that seems to have been dismissed under odd circumstances. This problem is not akin to brakes wearing out; it is a clear manufacturing problem that causes very serious dangers to the public. Hyundai recognized this risk because they suggested a very aggressive oil-maintenance regimen to purchasers of these cars. They should stand behind their dangerous product. I have receipts and documentation supporting the above work by the service stations, including the prior oil change, if needed.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Mckinney, TX, USA