This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
There is a significant problem with this car where the check engine and dashboard lights flicker on and then the car stalls and loses all power immediately. This has happened multiple times, including on the highway, which was a significant safety hazard. Upon taking the car to a Hyundai dealer, they indicated problems with the engine that require an engine replacement that would cost on the order of $8,000-9,000. Upon further research, we found two class action settlements related to engine problems for Hyundai vehicles of this type/age, but Hyundai says this vehicle is not covered due to mileage of 101,400.
The contact owns a 2014 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while at a stop when the contact accelerated to move forward and the vehicle accelerated at high speed and the contact noticed white smoke was coming from the exhaust of the vehicle. An independent mechanic diagnosed the vehicle and stated that the rings around the engine needed to be replaced and that the vehicle had an oil leak, The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 120,000.
Engine has failed at 67,000 and resembles the 2018 class action lawsuit. Dealership/Hyundai Motor will not fix it because vehicle is not in a "cold weather state" even though it is a known issue in the car. I have had the vehicle for not even four years, the vehicle came from a cold weather state where it spent over half the vehicle life and 1/3 of its miles.
Engine was experiencing ticking/knocking. Car stalled on freeway, and now the Engine must be replaced. Identical problem as seen in the 2018 class action lawsuit. Car experiencing same symptoms and confirmed by mechanic, despite not being in a cold-weather state.
I own a 2014 Hyundai Elantra. When the accelerator pedal is engaged, the vehicle hesitates and only accelerates to about 20 mph. The vehicle also stalls while at a complete stop and while driving. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed multiple times, but a failure code could not be found. The mechanic cleaned all the sensors; however, the failure was not corrected. The mechanic stated that the throttle body was causing the vehicle not to accelerate and stall while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for the recall and The vehicle was not repaired.
- Mount Laurel, NJ, USA
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I had my vehicle serviced to diagnose a ticking problem I had. I was told that it's an engine issue & known to Hyundai. As I was traveling 177 miles from home, the engine lost power and failed. Thankfully it didn't cause an accident. My engine has less than 100,000 miles!!! This should not happen and every engine that experiences this ought to be replaced through a recall!! Probably, most people don't even realize this is a problem and let themselves be taken advantage of.
Car engages into drive with a jolt. Sometimes at traffic lights, it just doesn't move forward when brakes are let go & then I have to raise the RPM to 3K+ to bring it back to motion, again with a big jolt. While driving on the freeway or streets, if you slow down, the car might choose not to engage back in up gears until you rev up the RPMs, and again with a big jolt. Took it to a mechanic shop to find out, as per Hyundai Repair Guidelines, if the car is put to drive, brakes on & the input speed in the scan tool shows non-zero value, which means its an internal Tranny failure and Tranny needs replaced. Such a premature failure of transmission. The car only has 130K miles on it & Tranny fluid has been always replaced as per the manufacturer-recommended intervals. And the way the tranny acts when fails on the road, sudden die down & re-engaging with a big jolt, I consider its a safety hazard & should have been recalled by Manufacturer already.
I boughtbmy car and anoit 1 month after it started having a ticking noise. Also the car will kinda stall when I'm getting on the highway where I can't get over 45 mph. Also the symbol with the (!) keep coming on and then blinking really fast. And the front end kinda shakes when it does that
Bought brand new, original owner warranty verified and regular maintenance done at 5K intervals instead of 7500 miles due to burning oil within first year of ownership. Dealership has refused opportunities to inspect and repair for other warrantable defects in backup camara, sunroof, etc. Car out of service since 3-28-19, at 55000 miles clutch assembly rivets detached and powertrain failed causing a cracked rod. Car was presented to dealer. Dealer refused. Hyundai assurance refused tow to next dealer without upfront payment. Car was taken to local aamco where defective rivets were diagnosed. Oem clutch was retained for evidence. Car was examined by second ase technician, car was deemed hazardous to drive and could cause fire if rod broke and punctured engine wall due to direct injection system. Costs for repair/rental/tow approached 15000, so rental was turned in and another vehicle was purchased to provide transportation while arbitrating complaint. Its only vehicle single parent and warranty covers repair/tow/rental, but Hyundai corporate and dealer have yet to provide any remedy (still as of 7-17-19) per cfr rule 703 or magnusson-moss act claim with BBB autoline was filed certified mail on 5-15-19. BBB mediator faked phone call agreement and perjured settlement letter. Offer was never accepted because neither Hyundai nor BBB are following rule 703 procedures and did not complete response form. Instead BBB assigned a specialist to personally attack and interrogate attempting to coerce me. Multiple requests for arbitration have been negated or ignored. Local BBB office in town of residence was contacted end of June. The representative that said she could get arbitration setup was fired the day after. Was told by director of operations they may not have arbitrator available and will require travel 5 hrs away to attend hearing if Hyundai agrees to arbitrate?
The contact owns a 2014 Hyundai Elantra. While making a right turn at 15 mph, the engine started to stall and hesitated until it ceased. The vehicle was taken to napleton's auto park of urbana (located at 1111 napleton way, urbana, il 61802, (217) 367-1222) who stated that diagnostic testing was needed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 100,500. The VIN was invalid.
After being parked overnight, sporadically the car will not shift out of park upon pressing the brake and starting the car. The little button on the shifter that you push in order to move out of park is locked and when pressed, emits a sound coming from the ignition where you put the key in. You can hear it click from the steering column each time you press the release button on the shifter. The only way to fix the problem is to turn the car off and back on again. Then the car shifts out of park normally. I cannot get the car to replicate this for the mechanic, as it only happens every few days.
Sudden, hard and dangerous downshift to I think first. You can be going slow and it could happen but it just happened to me at 40 or 50 miles an hour. You push the gas a little and no acceleration and I mean nothing and there should have been. You push some more and still nothing happens. Then all of a sudden it slams into I think first. I almost hit the steering wheel and a car behind me had to swerve. I know a bit about cars and I can tell you I'm shocked it's engineered that this can happen. I see a few people online have had a similar issue. I don't know if you'll do anything, I'm just letting you know.
The car intermittently does not start. Car will start after it sits for a length of time (could be hours or days) or after it has been towed to the dealership. Movement seems to shake the connection if that is the problem, into working. Has left owner stranded on numerous occasions in the last 5 weeks. Dealership says that if it can not reproduce the problem, therefore they can not diagnose it. Very dangerous for me if I get stranded in an unsafe area. Dealer changed the starter but is unwilling to try anything else. I stated that I did not want the car until it was fixed and safe to drive. Dealership told me to buy another car since "I didn't want" this car.
The transmission range sensor on my car died after about 78000 miles and caused the car to lock up while on the highway. Stayed in 3rd gear and for a few weeks before would lock up while in park, neutral, reverse and drive (most commonly while in park). This nearly caused a couple of accidents. After doing some research this appears to be a common problem with Elantras dating all the way back to 2007 and even has continued past my model year (2014) into 2015 models. The dealership even referred to it aso a faulty range sensor which to me seems to imply that they know about this issue. I couldn't shift and had a more difficult time slowing down and speeding up than usual. The part is relatively inexpensive but the diagnostic fee plus labor to remove and replace the faulty mechanical part was well over $150, resulting in a total bill of $210. A part failure that causes the vehicles computer, transmission and drivetrain to lose all connection to one another can be very dangerous, especially while on the highway. At first it happened only while stationary in park, the car would lock up while sitting with the engine running for a while. I would turn off the engine and re-engage the vehicle and everything would operate as normal. Then it occurred while backing down the hill out of my driveway, locked up in reverse, I applied the brakes, set the parking brake and turned off the car while still in reverse. (I live in a quiet subdivision of a small town of 12,000, what if this happened in a busier or more heavily populated area?) I was still able to start the vehicle while in reverse and shortly thereafter while in neutral. Then Tuesday morning while on the interstate (I-95) the gear and drive mode indicator on the tachometer went blank, I was stuck in 3rd gear (limp mode) and my car once slowing down had a difficult time accelerating after stopping.
The contact owns a 2014 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the vehicle would not start and stalled without warning. The vehicle was towed more than once due to the failure. The contact notified more than one dealer, but they could not replicate and diagnose the failure. The vehicle was still at the dealer for further inspection. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 4,500. Updated 05/24/16 the consumer stated the range switch was replaced. The vehicle was repaired. Updated 12/11/2017
Returned home from work and parked vehicle in driveway, got out and got groceries from passenger side. Went inside and about twenty minutes later was informed by neighbor that my car had rolled out of the driveway, across a 55 mph street, and through ditch into neighbors yard. When myself and three other people approached the vehicle we were astonished to see that the E-brake had been engaged and yet the vehicle rolled down driveway with no signs of tire dragging. It is as if the E-brake completely failed for a short period of time. There are other Hyundai's of similar build recalled for "parking break issues causing dragging while driving and possible rollaway while parked". sadly Hyundai is not helpful because my exact car does not have a current recall going. I believe that my car has an issue that is a defect of the caliber that creates the amount of damages necessary to recall a model of vehicle. Death or serious injury could have resulted due to the malfunction of the parking brake in my car. My vehicle has incurred above $3,000 worth of structural and body damage from rolling away at no fault of my own. It is currently at a repair shop and I am pursuing a claim with Hyundai but they are not doing what is best for the safety of consumers. An inspector should be out to look at my brakes regardless of the outcome, circumstance, or fault. Instead of trying to avoid paying for my car they should be looking into if this malfunction could cause harm and property damage to other people. Thank you for caring about the safety of our cars and roads.
While driving cruising at 45mph all of a sudden the vehicle felt like it went into neutral and the rpms went up to 4000 when left of the gas and gave it gas shifted back into gear. Also when you go up a hill and get to cruising speed the vehicle hangs in low gear and high rpms when let off it will up shift this is an intermittent problem. Took it to dealer 3 times on the 3rd time they kept it overnight and the mechanic finally felt it and agreed it "hangs in gear" he said "does not kick down smoothly and seems like the tcm is confused and takes awhile to decide what gear to go into". he also say " it seems worse in active eco mode and when he shifts it manually it seems fine". there has been a significant reduction in gas mileage.
The car won't start at times. I turn the key, all the lights and radio come on, no power to start the engine, no noise, no crank, nothing. If I wiggle the gear selector gently it will start. Last night it was stuck in park and I had to turn the car off, wiggle the selector a little again, and then it started and unlocked the gear selector. And yes, my foot is always firmly on the brake when I try to shift gears.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Naperville, IL, USA