This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Fit. The contact stated while her husband was driving at a slow speed, she heard a loud abnormal sound before the vehicle stalled. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not drivable. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the driveshaft needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed to her residence. The VIN was included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 20V770000 (Power Train). The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 135,000.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Fit. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 20V770000 (power train) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The local dealer was contacted and it was confirmed that the part was not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. VIN tool confirms parts not available.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Fit. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 20V770000 (power train) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The vehicle was taken to freedom Honda (4955 new car dr, Colorado springs, co 80923) where it was confirmed that the part was not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Fit. The contact stated while depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle failed to respond. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was not drivable. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that the drive axle needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 20V770000 (power train) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact called Honda of tenafly (28 county rd, tenafly, NJ 07670: (201) 568-7000) where it was confirmed that the part was not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. VIN tool confirms parts not available. The failure mileage was approximately 94,000.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Fit. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 20V770000 (power train) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact called huntington Honda (1055 E jericho turnpike, huntington, NY 11743, (631) 423-6000) where it was confirmed that the part was not yet available. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. VIN tool confirms parts not available.
- Kings Park, NY, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
In February 2020, I was stopped at a stoplight and when the light turned green and I went to accelerate I heard cracking/ breaking sound and the car would not move forward or backward. I needed to have the car towed and was informed that the driver side axle had broken. In January 2021, nearly the exact same thing happened. I was stopped at a stoplight when the light turned green I went to accelerate I heard the same sound and the car would not move. I had the car towed I was informed that the passenger side axle had broken. The mechanic describe this axle as rusted around one area of the axel, what would normally be about the diameter of a quarter it was a small as the diameter of a pencil.
The left cv axel snapped and was replaced, a week later the same issue, and now the power is no longer distributing correctly, seems to be caused by the way the axels are exposed to the enviorment and continuously snap, there was no excessive driving on the vehicle, it only travels a 10 mile radius in the city and I ve put easily $3000 into it in the last 3 months
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Fit. The contact stated that while his wife was stopped on a slight incline, and attempting to drive off, the vehicle made a loud abnormal sound. The vehicle failed to accelerate and rolled backwards. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where the technician attempted to move the vehicle and the vehicle failed to move. The technician informed the contact that even with the parking brake engaged, the vehicle would roll. The contact was informed that the driveshaft failed and that the vehicle needed to be taken an authorized Honda dealer. The contact called joe romeo's I-79, 6100 nancy D dr, westover, wv 26501 and informed the mechanic of the failure. The contact was informed that the recall on the driveshaft was not yet finalized and that the vehicle was unable to be serviced under NHTSA campaign number: 20V770000 (power train). The vehicle was not yet taken to an authorized dealer. The manufacture was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 90,000.
Oem cv axles have deteriorated and broken while in motion on a busy city street! causing the car to lose all (forward & reverse) driving capabilities, which in turn created a dangerous situation for all parties on the road. A broken cv axle also adds an increased risk for transmission damage.
I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a major intersection, and the right drive shaft of my 2007 Honda Fit broke. I was accelerating at a low speed to pull out into the intersection. I had to have my car towed off to a repair shop, which was closed for the day since it was after 5pm when this happened. This was a major inconvenience, and thankfully I could get a ride home and a rental the next day. The other drive shaft was just as bad, and the total repair cost was around $600.
Right half shaft failed due to salty winter road water entering the area between the shaft damper and the shaft, gradually corroding the shaft until there was no longer enough sound metal left to transmit torque to the wheel. The shaft failed while leaving a stoplight; if it had failed at highway speed, it likely would have been disastrous. From what I can find on a Honda Fit forum, this seems to be a fairly frequent failure mode for both Fits and civics. I have three other photos of the failed half shaft, but they are a bit too large to upload. I also retained the failed part.
1. on 8/18/2016, the left front axle metal snapped in two (not at the joint) while I was driving on route 8 in bellevue ky. The mechanic said this was a manufacturing defect. 2. on 6/1/2017, the right front axle snapped in two (not at the joint) while I was driving on the expressway in the middle lane at >55 miles per hour in heavy traffic. The mechanic said this was a similar manufacturing defect and that I'm lucky to be alive! I have receipts from both repairs and a picture of the axle from the first failure, attached to this complaint.
Right drive axle shaft broke, rusted through inside vibration damper, left drive axle near failure; right front ABS sensor damaged. Had pulled over to curb in gear, break occurred when starting to pull out, was stuck in active traffic. Luckilly this failure did not occure when traveling at road speeds.
Had to have the passenger side axle replaced. I was having the oil change and it was pointed out to me the axle under the vibration damper was severely rusted. Rust was so bad as to have caused the vibration damper to split in several places. You could "dig" a screw driver into the rust. Person recommended having the axle replaced as soon as possible. Brought the car to a repair shop and mechanic confirmed axle was severely rusted. Car has 154000 miles on odometer.
Pulling out of a business's driveway onto a highway, half way across the highway the car starts to loose forward motion and engine rev's increases dramatically. Step on gas and car will not accelerate. Check to see the car is in drive. Roll across the highway and coast into a parking lot. Look under car and see front axle on drivers side has snapped. It snapped at the point where the axle meets the damper. Took car to dealer and he confirmed front driver side axle is broken. This happened when there was no traffic on the highway. Serious accident could have occurred if highway was busy as car was in the lane I was crossing over of two lane highway when axle broken and was only going about 5-10mph at that point. Had the highway not been on a hill or had I been trying to go in the uphill direction would not have had enough speed to avoid oncoming traffic.
My check engine light came on this Sunday morning when I driving over 60 mph with A/C and radio on my car jerks, I have already had a major transmission repair that cost over $500 and the car continues to misfire I was told the car was fine by the dealer rusty wallis. I have a service history book of everytime I have ever had any type of service my car has ever had since I purchased it. I do everything that the dealer tells me I'm informed I M supposed to do for the care of my car. I get my book stamped with the seal from rusty wallis every time I get service, even just an oil change. My high beams turn on whenever I use the signal lights. I just replaced my battery and now my A/C will not work. I'm taking my car into rusty to have the latest recall the airbags fixed this Saturday. I have spent thousands of dollars on my car and all work on my car has been at the place I bought it rusty wallis. They have always been good with me, but I really think something is wrong with the engines and fuel/ electrical systems in the Fits 2007. I just don't want to keep spending money on a problem that will never be fixed. I'm afraid that my car is going to stop while I'm on the freeway for an issue I have already paid to have fixed. I have had major tune ups, brakes, transmission and gaskets engine stuff done every time I was informed my car needed it, but the issue is not resolved. I would prefer an impartial entity review the situation and give me the findings, because I feel like I'm spending money and the issues still persist. I have paid for most things on my credit card for a track record of the years. My car is only 9 yrs old. Rusty wallis has been good with me, I think the defects are factory made from Honda. I would like to know is this stuff just happening my car or are others having these issues too.
I am the owner of model year 2007 Honda Fit. This year, when the car reached around 76,000 miles the clutch began to fail to fully disengage with the pedal fully depressed. Eventually the problem was isolated to the mechanical clutch assembly (as opposed to the hydraulic system). After disassembly it was discovered that all of the "diaphragm springs" on the clutch pressure plate were bent, some more severely than others. My technician noted that he had never seen this sort of thing happen before. In order for the pressure plate diaphragm springs to have bent, one of two things must have occurred: 1. the diaphragm springs were damaged during assembly. If this is the case, then the damage would have been apparent when the car was new, not some 76,000 miles later. Identification numbers on the clutch (M41L 11 23/50) should prove that this clutch was the original and had not been replaced. 2. the diaphragm springs of the clutch lost their spring tension. This to me seems to be the only plausible explanation. This could be due to defects in the steel itself or improper heat-treating. I believe that a series of brinell hardness tests at various depths would prove that the clutch diaphragm springs are too soft and that this condition that ultimately caused the clutch to fail.
Power steering failed as leaving work. Starting car has been a recent issue since the starter is having problems but the power steering failing the only solution has to been to restart the car. In this case not possible since I could not get the car to restart.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- West Warren, MA, USA