CarComplaints.com Notes: Some vehicles alert you if you fall asleep behind the wheel, but the 2015 Honda CR-V has a different approach: just shake the heck out of you so you never fall asleep in the first place.
This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Car suddenly hesitates while I step on gas at a stop position or running and my mechanic noticed it too, dangerous if it suddenly stop on higher speed traveling, I know there-??s no recall on my vehicle but other owners reports of same malfunction on same model year and make of car 2015 Honda crv, please advise
Differential problem, converter torque locked up transmission and froze engine. No engine light or warnings were given, this happened in the middle of rush hour traffic where I could have been rear ended from sudden engine failure and was very dangerous for me to exit my vehicle for help. I had the vehicle repaired at Lithia Honda Medford oregon.
Three times the vehicle would not start while at Walmart parking lot since over February 2020. I push the button to start and it wont start. The air condition/heater does not work since winter of 2021/2022. The electrical system has gone haywire twice. The lights on dashboard flash and the numbers roll all over since 2021. The door locks are not wanting to lock now for the past 12 months. while I was inside the car the door would not unlock The engine seems to stall for the past 8 months. It feels like it is not getting gas. I have taken the vehicle to the dealer three times for the air with no positive results yet.
Our well maintained crv suddenly began to make loud noises and stall while driving. No engine/warning lights illuminated. The low mileage CRV (60k) was immediately taken to a Honda dealership. It needed a complete engine replacement. The cause was not identified. Honda failed to make it right and acknowledge the problem. The car has also stalled while in reverse and vibrates when stopped.
I noticed the car shook at first in park or at a light. I made Honda aware 1 month in at 25K miles and was told it was a common flaw with my year make and model and there was nothing to be done. It progressed over 1 year into vigarously shaking while in reverse. I was driving on the road and my car completely cut off on me without warning. It would restart, the ac blew hot, then cut back off. I was almost hit from behind while traffic kept going. I got out of the car for safety to have it towed to the Honda dealership. While off the tow, the car started back up again and went into drive. However, the check engine light was still on and the shaking was still ongoing. Honda told me they cleared the codes and could find nothing wrong. I made them keep the car. It has now been two week. After about 5 days they told me a list of the following problems: 1.engine harnes1.engine harness had s had corrosion due to coolant leakage 2.speed sensor and both transmission warmer coolant hoses with clamps needed repair 3. Transmission side mount 4. Evaporator canister vent shut valve stuck closed 5. front engine mount is collapsed My warranty company refused to repair issue #1 and #2 due to the corrosion. Honda charged me $1800 to repair the problem. The service manager mentioned in a phone call that my car was salvage while reading an email from his district manager. I can not find out if this is in fact true and the sold me a certified pre owned care under false pretenses. I want to make others aware.
- Las Vegas, NV, USA
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For the past 4 months, we have had intermittent starting issues with our 2015 Honda CRV. It takes numerous times to start the car. I have researched this issue online and it appears to be a widespread problem amongst thousands of Honda owners. It usually requires significant costs to repair the issue ($600-1,000). I have called Honda directly and they are of no use and will not help. This appears to be a huge issue and It appears Honda would rather sweep this under the rug and not recognize this as a widespread issue. We need someone to begin a formal inquiry into this intolerable situation because it is a safety issue when you can-??t start your car in the winter or at night miles from home or in a different state. Thank you for your interest.
The contact owns a 2015 Honda CR-V. The contact stated while driving approximately 25 MPH downhill, the RPM increased while depressing the brake pedal. The failure occurred consistently while driving downhill. There were no warning lights illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 88,000.
On August 1, 2021 and again on February 26, 2022 I had major issues with transmission slipping gears and my 2015 Honda CR-V stalling out on an incline while driving home. This was very dangerous and nearly caused an accident. I had my 8 year old son in the back as well and many cars almost rear-ended me both times. Additionally, i experience VERY rough idling and extremely rough gear changes which lead me to believe there is an issue with my car's transmission, specifically with the CVT system on this car. It continues to feel VERY unsafe and unreliable as i drive it and i am very worried about my safety and the longevity of my cars ability to continue running.
Purchased used at 64,000 miles. Second day of ownership/operation vehicle began stalling while in operation on the road. This happened when coming to a stop, when accelerating from a stop and while at high speeds on the highway. I am not sure if th problem is caused by drivetrain, fuel delivery, engine, or electrical issues.
In June 2016, my Honda CR-V 2015 broke down, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. The vehicle was towed to a Honda Dealership - Diamond Bar, CA. The Honda Mechanic diagnosed a P2138, did not solve the problem, and sent me home. The vehicle broke down once again, only for them to claim again that they could not recreate the problem. The vehicle had 12,000 miles on it at this time. I filed a complained with the NHTSA at this time. In September 2017, my Honda CR-V broke down again, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. The vehicle was towed to a Honda Dealership - Alhambra, CA. The Honda Mechanic diagnosed a P2647 and fixed the issue. The vehicle had 35,000 miles on it at this time. Now, in August 2021, my Honda CR-V broke down again, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. The vehicle was driven to a local mechanic, where he diagnosed the car to have 4 OBII codes and recommended taking it to a Honda. I took it to a Honda Dealership - Buena Park, CA. The Honda Mechanic diagnosed a P2128 only, said they don't take recommendations from other mechanics, and replaced in the APP Sensor and gas pedal. The vehicle had 83,000 miles on it at this time. Only 1 week later, My Honda CR-V broke down again, lost all power, and stopped working in the middle of the road. My ODII code diagnosed the issue as a P2138 - the exact same code diagnosed and not fixed by Honda - Diamond Bar, CA back in 2016. When I called Honda Buena Park about the car breaking down again, they stated they will charge me another $150 diagnosis fee to look at it again. The above codes have the same issues over and over again, and I believe this vehicle should have a recall with no individual/franchise dealership willing to bite the bullet, looking to yank customer's chains to make the most amount of money for simple fixes. Thank you
The engine wiring harness melted and frayed. Two different garages (including Honda dealer) could not determine cause. As part of the fact-finding, multiple fuses blew every time they were replaced - at minimum in fuse box under hood harness and also under dash. For months the car could be sluggish when first leaving garage (like something wasn't catching) but I don't think that was related (although that problem has disappeared it seems.) I drove the car one day. Parked it. Got in it the next day and it was dead. Battery (3 yrs old) was at 50%. Starter was fine. Assumed it was starter button on dash. When car got to Honda, battery was dead. First garage found blown fuses, replaced, blew/melted. Did get it to start after many trials, but then brake lights wouldn't turn off. Then next morning dead again. That's when discovered harness. Never started again (until harness replaced at dealer06.)
SUV stalls when starting after overnight or day stay and driving slowly in reverse for about 3 yards. The engine can be restarted with starter button. This is dangerous, because I am parking for work in an underground garage with minimal lighting and other drivers do not expect a vehicle stalled half way pulling out from a parking space.
I have had this car for 3 years and have needed to replace the alternator twice. This is a safety concern, as I am ansi for parent and this could leave anyone stranded with the inability to start the vehicle under any conditions. This is a know problem with this specific year CRV, and is frequently discussed in the CRV community as well as at the dealership, by repair staff. There should be a required recall to fix whatever is causing alternators needing to be replaced every 18 months.
So I went to my Honda dealership (Doylestown, PA) today with issues of my oil lamp going on (for a few days). The oil was low (it seemed to burn real quick) and adding additional oil was the item that was performed on my vehicle. However the service representative told me to come back after I have driven for 1000 additional miles for them to check and see if the issue is the Piston Rings. Which he stated may run at least $3000. So I did some research and noticed that a recall (recall number KF6) was created for engines issues for Honda CRV 2015 (mgr Feb. 8 2015 - July 28, 2016). My SUV was mgr on April 2015. I wanted to see if it's possible that there is an issue with my vehicle and this recall.
No engine response from stop. 2 to 5 seconds before engine responds to accelerator. Happens mostly when engine at temperature. Dealer insisted it was transmission. Checked and found nothing wrong. No acknowledgement that it could be the engine. Have seen same complaints on internet but not solutions to the problem. Happens most trips but not always. May happen for several stops or may not. Started when car was still under warranty and continues today. Started at about 30,000 miles and car has 90,000 miles now. Definitely a safety issue.
I took my car to the repair shop because my car vibrates and idles low to where it feels like it is going to cut off at a stop sign or traffic light while in gear. The shop changed out the valve gasket and did an oil change paid $260 the car continued to low idle and vibrate at the stop lights and and stop signs felt like it was going to stall out. A week later I took my car to another repair shop and they changed out the coils and spark plugs also cleaned the body throttle which cost me $820 left there and still my car at traffic lights and stop signs while in gear vibrates and idles low and feels like it is going to stall out. So I took it back to that shop 3 more times for the same issue. I then took the car to the Honda deal ship where they did a diagnostic and updated the computer system and still my car vibrates and idle lows and feels like it is going to stall out when in gear at stop lights and stop signs. Honda did not fix the issue.
Loud rattling noises with associated strong unsettling vibrations come into the cabin. These vibrations and rattling noises have been very distracting. The rattling noises begin at a low volume and become quite loud. The associated vibrations make me feel very uncomfortable. These distractions certainly distract me from driving safely and are a safety hazard.
Just purchased a 2015 CRV ex. Everything was copasetic until the first time it wouldn't start up. When I pressed the ignition I let off the brake seemingly too early, because as soon as I did so, it putted to a halt. Turned it over on a jump and chalked it up to leaving a light on or old/week battery. The second and third time, about two and three weeks later was reason to be because of the same cause. Then the occasional not starting turned into needing a jump every time I used the vehicle. I took it to two auto supply stores to get codes on the issue. Onr shop said bad alternator diode, the other a bad alternator and bad battery. Then the battery blew up. I killed the car when I got home and tried to start it up again to see if the battery held a charge. When I tried to turn it over again, I pushed the button immediately after pressing it off. I imagine I tried to start it too soon to when I killed it because there was a deep boom, to find out the battery blew up. There was a large hole in thr side of it. So I put in a new/used/ larger battery that was never able to start the car itself so I continued jumping it every time I used it snd never turning it off while running errands. At one point I had a friend put his multimeter to use to test the alternstor. Those numbers where all over the place, jumping up and down on an idle. At this point ive chalked it up to a bad diode, parasitic drain, or bad wiring. Help! I can't afford to fix this thing.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Bolingbrook, IL, USA