CarComplaints.com Notes: 2011 Honda CR-V owners are reporting problems where the engine revs when braking. Read more »
Our data is showing early signs of a defect trend, so that's why we've flagged the 2011 CR-V with our "Beware of the Clunker" rating. Time will tell whether this continues to be a problem, & if so, whether Honda will be able to identify the problem & fix it.
10.0
really awful
Crashes / Fires:
1 / 1
Injuries / Deaths:
0 / 0
Average Mileage:
43,960 miles
About These NHTSA Complaints:
This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Vehicle in motion in all accounts. TPMS warning light intermittently on and off signaling faulty tire pressure monitoring system. Central computer replaced. Again TPMS warning light intermittently came on and off. 3 wheel sensors subsequently replaced. Again TPMS warning light intermittently came on and off. Told by dealer there is signal of failure to transmit to rear sensors in history - however system functioning normally at this time and there is nothing they can do now. They recommended not plugging any phone chargers or anything else into the car power jacks that could cause interference. This sounds like overall faulty electrical system to me.
When starting vehicle car turns on with no problem sometimes and will run with little to no problem. When all of a sudden vehicle begins to lose power and all lights on instrument panel lights up car shuts off. This can happen randomly at any given time, weather condition, speed, parking or pulling out of parking space on the highway or multi-lane streets within city limits; and or one-way streets, back roads or country roads with inclines and higher elevations or not. Incidents have been happening since March 15, 2017, April 2, April 15, April 18, April 20, May 2, May 4, 2017. All maintenance work done on vehicle was done by Honda dealership where purchased. All inspections including May 2017 inspection have received passing grades, done by Honda dealership as well. Took vehicle to dealership twice and was informed they could not find a problem. Diagnostic test was not done because check engine light would need to be on and shut off needed to occur while at dealerships service centers. Car was purchased April of 2015 as a pre-owned / pre-certified vehicle. Manufacturer warranty for power train will end November 2017. All other warranties have ended.
Rodents caused extensive damage to my car causing over $4,000 worth of damage to my car. My insurance covered most of the cost and I only had to pay $500 deductible. Rodents also caused damage to my home which was also very expensive. I had to have my attic insulation replaced, my dishwasher needs to be replaced and numerous kitchen plumbing problems.
The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. the contact stated that during cold weather the vehicle would not start. The failure occurred without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that vehicle needed a new battery. The vehicle was repaired however the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 25,000. Updated 03/01/17
Automatic door locks have failed on numerous occasions. All 4 doors are affected at different times, but dealer could only replicate one door failure. I am reporting only the most recent failure date but this has been intermittent problem for 3 years.
- Scarsdale, NY, USA
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This car has killed 6 batteries in 5 years. The dealer just keeps saying everything is fine, but it frequently needs jump starts and battery replacements. There is no pattern as to weather conditions, just frequent failures at different times of year. I am reporting the most recent occurrence, but it has happened many times in 5 years. My son has been stranded many times.
Rear passenger door lock (left side). Door will not lock, either manually or with key fob. Might be a problem with the actuator. Rear door lock started making some clicking noises (like it was stuck) the past month when all other doors would auto-lock. Now it no longer works and remains unlocked. This is a hazard with children in the back.
When I unlock my car with the key fob my door locks immediately by itself. Most recently my passenger side door will not lock. When I locked it with the key I was able to get it to stay locked. However when I returned to unlock my car I was locked out. No doors would unlock! I had to use the key fob and push unlock while the key was inserted in the lock. I can hear them clicking randomly while driving. There was S class action settlement but of course the deadline to make a claim was Nov of 2015. My locks just started this issue 2weeks ago. You would think if it's an issue for certain years and models that Honda would make it right!!
The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. the contact stated that the door locks failed and the locks engaged independently. The failure occurred numerous times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The VIN was not available. The failure mileage was 42,000.
The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. in cold weather, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer where the diagnosis was the same, but the dealer refused to provide a replacement battery. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 17,000. The VIN was not provided.
Front passenger side door cannot be locked using the key fob or the central lock button on the driver's side. The only way to lock/unlock it is to do it manually. The trunk cannot be unlocked if the front passenger side door is locked. Trunk can only be unlocked when the front passenger side door is unlocked.
Door lock actuator problem: Drivers rear door lock is in open mode to lock and unlock. Honda dealer tested and then replaced door lock actuator. Due to the same actuator problem Honda settled a class action law suit for class vehicles (2007-2008 Honda Cr-vs and certain 2009 Honda Cr-vs) on September 19, 2014, by and between american Honda motor co., Inc. (Honda) and plaintiffs in davitt V. Honda North America, Inc., case no. 13-381 (D.N.J.) (the litigation). (settlement-claims.com/doorlock/index.aspx).
Door lock actuator failed: Key fob would only lock/unlock drivers door. Manual key lock/unlock on outside drivers door would only lock/unlock drivers door. Attempted to lock/unlock all doors using button on inside drivers door: Could only lock/unlock drivers door--no affect on other doors. Today, Honda dealer tested and then replaced door lock actuator: Problem persisted unaltered. Then more diagnostics showed: "diagnosed to find the unlock relay inside the micu is not providing power to unlock the remaining doors. The noisy driver front actuator, or any of the other 3 may have caused the issue in the relay. Orderd the under hood fuse relay box and customer will return."
The car was sitting on a hill, and I turned the key in the on position. I then turned the key to start, and the engine did not turn over, and the cab lost all power. So I took it to auto zone, and they said that nothing was wrong with it.
Driver door lock stopped working and could only be operated manually. All other door locks work fine with the power lock button and key fob. This has been an issue wi previous years of theirs same make and model.
The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. the contact stated that the heating core failed to work, there was air blowing under the dashboard, there was a burning odor, and a film was present on the windows that impacted the contacts visibility each time the vent controls were used. The contact stated that the anti-freeze was entering the cabin and the vapors caused the contact to have to open the windows when the vehicle was being driven. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer who was not able to replicate and diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 30,300.
In may, 2014, the right rear power window quit working and would not go back up after having it completely down. I toggled the window switch a few times and the window eventually went back up, so I thought it was just a glitch. We live in Arizona where the summertime is very hot, so the window was never used again due to air conditioning. The window was used recently because the weather has cooled down from the summer heat. This time, toggling the switch did not work and the window stayed in the down position completely. I took the Honda CR-V to a local Honda dealership which diagnosed the issue as a faulty master power window switch. I've researched and discovered there have been numerous issues with faulty master power window switches on several different Honda models. There are several recalls affecting just under one million automobiles manufactured and there is a potential fire hazard according to Honda. The company's recall statement says, "water, rain, or other liquid may enter the driver's window and reach the master power window switch, resulting in impaired function of the switch...switch is damaged as a result of the liquid intrusion, it may result in failure of the switch and overheating...an overheating switch may cause smoke, melting or, potentially, fire." The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration opened an investigation into a fire hazard with the master power switch on the Honda Cr-vs. Also, [xxx], a Honda spokesman, said one person died in South africa in a fire attributed to the problem. It is apparent Honda still has not properly corrected the master power window switch issue. Please continue your investigation of this issue. Honda's engineers need to re-design the switch; it's housing, and replace all potential faulty master switches to ensure consumers safety from fire/death and financial responsibility. Information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
On 15 November 2014 at 9:09pm my check engine light came on, I have a garmin gps hooked into my computer and this unit can read the diagnostic codes. The code for this check engine light occurrence was a (P2422). The problem I have with this is that this car is 3.5 years old and has 91K miles on it and this is the 6th (yes sixth) time for this failure. This code has to do with the emissions/fuel system. The car has been to 2 different dealerships to be resolved and is still not resolved. I am again taking it to the dealership for this occurrence but am running out of warranty and patience. This car has also been through 4 batteries, a water pump, fuel pump and all power steering components replaced. The message associated with code P2422 is "evaporative emission system vent valve stuck closed". is there anyone else out there fighting these issues that can give me any insight??
Passenger door and rear hatch door would not unlock. Dealer replaced front door latch assembly. Cost: Latch assembly: $69.72: Labor: $340; shop supplies: $25: Total cost: $438.42.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Cleveland, OH, USA