The check engine light and vehicle stability assist lights came on first while the car was stationary. The obd codes were scanned and the code P0341 was read. The camshaft position sensor was replaced and the lights turned off and the P0341 codes were cleared. The second time the lights came on the car was in motion. The obd codes were scanned again and the code P1009 was read meaning the vtc actuator is bad and needs to be replaced. This is a very common issue with all 2008-2012 Accord and there has been service bulletins issued regarding the problem. There has also been a class action lawsuit about the issue. If there is not already, there needs to be a recall issued.

- Berkeley Heights, NJ, USA

Purchased June 13, 2020.. shortly after noticed it's light on dash was on.. I have just become aware what it is, it is still on all the time.. within a week or two I got an oil change and they suggested I get 2 new tires and a flange on the exhaust would need repaired soon.. a few weeks ago I purchased 2 new tires upon returning home front flashers only began to blink intermittently it continues to do this occasionally.. I called discount tire that same day and they didn't know if anything had to be reset so I have been continuously looking for answers so now I have come across the recalls and common problems. The TPMS. Light came on after a 2 hour drive home and all tires were 10-12 lbs pressure low.. what is going on..

- Kalamazoo, MI, USA

Vsa/ tc fail - caused hazard. Problem description: I got stuck on my driveway, on pavement, in a steep section of the road. Tc kept cutting the throttle. Here's what I did: 1) I tried to use the brakes to keep the car from rolling down the hill and to stop the no-traction wheel from spinning. This did not work. Tc kicked in, over and over, causing the car to roll backwards. 2) I tried to use the brakes, during quick foot swap of the pedals (separate application of brake, then gas pedal). This too, did not work. This was the worse case - the car rolled backward, and then made the drivers side wheel spin even more (beside, I now was almost off the road, and into muddy ditch). 3) next, I tried more careful slow acceleration, there was no difference between idle, off-idle and the very slightest of acceleration (needed more granularity). The wheel spun freely. I now was even closer to being, off the road, and into the muddy ditch. Where others have fallen before. 4) finally, I turned the traction control off. This had no effect. It appears this is dummy-button (its fake). Here's what I expected... a) since 3 of the wheels reported 0-mph, and each application of the throttle resulted in negative mph, on the same 3 wheels then the tc should allow low mph of wheel spin, while gas and brakes are applied (I do this all the time in reverse/ backing up hill, and this works good - no tc interference). B) or, since 3 of the wheels reported 0-mph, and each application of the throttle resulted zero forward progress, then the ABS should apply slight brakes (maybe even hill holding function), to the front wheels, to force traction to the wheel with the most grip. ABS possibly applying, alternating braking, as traction is lost, and gained, to each front wheel, till forward motion is achieved for 100ft (some distance). C) or, at least allow the vsa/ tc, button to work.

- Soquel, CA, USA

Excessive oil consumption, using more than 1 qt of oil within 1,000 miles.

- Hernando, MS, USA

Car suddenly accelerates making difficult to keep under control. Happened many times. The car was running in the local city streets.

- Richmond Hill, NY, USA

Vehicle does not accelerate, but hesitates 2-4 seconds from a stop or near stop, then suddenly surges to mid throttle forcing the driver to either brake suddenly or avoid hitting another vehicle. Happened 4 times in one year with my car.

- Harrisburg, PA, USA

Honda is sending out its cars with the rear wheel camber set to negative 1 to 2 degrees. This causes the tires to wear out on the inside edge and the rear tires do no make proper contact with the road. The front camber is usually set to zero (ie straight up and down for the tires). The smaller contact patch not only wears out the tire edges but makes a safety hazard as the tires wear down and the contact patch decreases. Rotating the tires only makes the problem worse. I requested a wheel alignment at zero miles and again at 6K with the request that the rear tires be set to zero camber. At 30K my tires are worn out only on the inside edge and I am requesting a third wheel alignment which now will cost 600 dollars or more to fix Honda's problem. I believe the camber problem makes the cars susceptible to spinning around in icy weather due to the difference in tire patches. This is worse on an icy road. Honda other than the local dealer will not talk to its customers......

- Cornucopia, WI, USA