This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I own 07 Accord everything has been working properly I have owned about 2 years no problems yesterday going about 30 miles an hour my passenger lower ball joint broke of and the axle broke as well it was scary no prior signs or indicators that something like this would happen
On startup, vehicle makes loud grinding noise coming from power steering. Vehicle is tough to turn left and right when in motion. Bubbles in power steering reservoir. Power steering fluid is leaking from hose that travels towards front of car and from power steering pump. Car has been sitting since Nov 2020 and I checked vehicle today and power steering fluid is still leaking from both hoses. Vehicle makes louder grinding noise when turning and is very stiff
I was driving on a city road/side street at approximately 25 mph, when I turned right onto another street the vehicle jerked or seized slightly, could not control the steering and heard metal scraping on the road. Stopped vehicle immediately. Front passenger side of tire popped off was turned at about 45 degree angle and broke off the arm, ball and joint. This occurred on a relatively smooth road, no obstacles in road. Did not hit a pothole when this occurred or other object, the tire and ball and joint just broke off the arm. I believe it also damaged the drive shaft.
Driving home from airport after returning home late at night my car randomly accelerated and drive light started blinking. Car then drive normal a few more min B4 doing this again jumping on its own while only going 15 mh up to 2 and 3000tpm. I pulled over turned off car then back on. Car was fine the next 5 mile home. The next morning I drove 15miles fine when the car started this again. I pulled over noticed slight smoke but was less than 1 mile from safety so I tried making it. The car again jumped at low speed up to 3000 RPM and stayed there. Breaking and going on it's own. Once I made it to safety I parked car. Upon getting it towed found that my axel came unseated during this and lost all tran fluid. Car wouldn't go into any gear. Upon reseat of axel and replace tran fluid car seems to be ok. After reading all these other people with similar issues I'm thinking that the axel was not the issue but the result of whatever the real issue is that caused it to unseat to begin with. If it wouldn't of been the middle of the night and early morning I would of myself or someone else. I'm terrified of my car now. Luckily I was on a neighborhood street both times
Within a couple weeks of getting vehicle from a and Z motors in clute, to 77531 the front suspect starting squeaking I'm not for sure what the issue is, front hood doesn't set right like it was wrecked but they never told told me if it had ever been in a wreck, all the windows do not roll down, catalic converter rattles when taking off. I have seen that the vehicle could have a recall and it could be and issue that could kill myself kr others in a roll over.
- Angelton, TX, USA
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I've had my power steering pump and rack & pinion replaced. Power steering is still tough, feels like I'm turning the wheel with 40lb weights on each side of it. Suspension is failing, hitting a bump makes my car feel like the suspension is pushing up and makes it float momentarily and makes a slight noise while driving. Both cv axles failed front side at the same point of that rubber grommet in the middle, water gets trapped under it and makes it rust out....both of them snapped while I was driving at different points.
I had to replace rear suspension within first year & Honda dealer told me is very common; bad suspension on 07 Honda, but once replaced will last forever-so why not a factory defect!? then at 3 years something in front suspension, same story. Now the vtc actuator needs replacement-rumbling noise at startup for less than a minute, which I'm finding out is the case with a lot of Honda now, old & brand new. Old Honda used to last; used to be excellent & all I've driven past 25 years. Now the Honda brand is unreliable - loyal Honda owners like me, after 25 years driving only Honda, are switching brands. Honda is not the reliable car it once was. I will never buy Honda again because of major problems I had on my 07 right from the start (I bought my 07 Honda brand new in 08) & had problems I never saw before in the past even with 15+-year old Honda.
On December 4, 2017 I was traveling the posted speed limit on interstate 195 Maryland when my tire broke away from the axle. I lost control of the car and skid across the highway and slammbed into a guard rail. I had just repaired/replaced both lower control arm bushings on that same wheel not two weeks prior to the accident with alignment and new brakes all around. I was fortunate that I did not hit anyone and no one hit me or the result would have been much worse. The car was totaled.
Last year I was driving when my ball joint broke. If I was going high speeds my kids and I would've been in a bad accident. Now yesterday, my friend with the same make model and year had the same thing happen to her. Her ball joint broke when driving.. luckily not at high speeds. Will there be a recall on this issue?
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Accord. While driving 70 mph, one of the tires detached from the vehicle. Prior to the incident, a valu craft ball joint was purchased and installed in the vehicle which caused the ball joint to seize without warning. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The VIN was unknown. The failure mileage was 141,000.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Accord. While driving at 35 mph, the vehicle shook. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The VIN was not available. The failure mileage was 100,000.
Just bought my Accord in September 2013 with 105K miles on it.when I test drove the vehicle I noticed that the brakes were sticky.when I came to a complete stop then when I accelerated it took a second or two for the brakes to release then accelerate again. They told me that they had just replaced the brakes and that's the reason why that it was doing that.so within a month later I brought it in cause the problem never went away. They fixed the problem and just put brake fluid and bleed the brakes.the car ran a little better and the brakes weren't sticking as much.two months later I had to replace the brake pads.brakes were still sticky.3 months later I had to replace them again.then I noticed that when I would due over 60 mph that when I would press the brakes that the car would shake and pull to the left.I then got a aliment and still the car would shake when I would accelerate and brake.I then replaced all four rotors.problem stopped.two months later the cars left lower control arm was giving out.had to replace both right and left side.one month later I hear the brakes making a loud grinding noise.I had to replace the pads again.I find that every 2 to 3 months I have to replace my brakes. All this money being spent is not fair.Honda needs to recall these brake systems.my airbag light and engine light keeps coming on and off.also my stereo light goes off and on.help me please.
Took care in for maintenance. Was told compliance bushing is wearing and should be replaced soon. I'm finding this item cost about $20. And several hundreds to fix due to labor. Looking at all the blogs, this particular item has upset many because of the design and looks to be a cash cow for the dealerships. If I wee to purchase all bushings for the lower control arm (3 each side) the total in parts would be $89. But to have the dealership to replace just one busing would be over $500. The lower control arm has to be removed to replace just the one bushing. To purchase the lower control arm which includes the 3 bushings, is just over $300 per side. Plus reading all the blogs, the compliance bushing has a tendency to wear quickly. Honda should fix at no cost to the owner.
The contact owns a 2007 Honda Accord. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who detected that both front bushings were severely cracked. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
I had alignment/suspension issues (along with car groaning at low-speeds and turns) for several weeks. Local mechanic originally thought it was a tire or alignment problem because the tires were wearing unevenly in an odd pattern and car was pulling strongly. The problems persisted, so I then took the car to my local dealer. The dealer identified the problem as the compliance bushing. I had never heard of this auto part before, but after the dealership told me about it, I researched it on the internet and saw dozens of complaints about this issue from Honda Accord owners on various Honda forums. The car is a 2007 Honda Accord ex-L V6.
Vehicle went to dealer for a transmission problem, transmission being replaced under warranty. Problem is that lower control arms are corroded and can not be re-used. These arms need to be removed to do transmission. Problem - corroded lower control arms at 52414 miles
: the contact stated while driving 30 mph on normal road conditions, there was a loud popping sound from the front left side of the windshield. The sound also occurred when driving on rough roads. The sales/service dealer was notified and the vehicle was inspected. When the contact drove the vehicle again, the problem continued, so the vehicle was returned to the sales/service dealer. The sales/service dealer refused to provide a refund, replace the vehicle or to replace the seal to the windshield. The manufacturer was notified. The consumer found a service bulletin regarding improperly sealed windshields (molding problems) that cause popping/rattling noise. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but they claimed they could not hear the noise. The fuse box under the hood near the dashboard and in the interior of the car were tightened because they were loose. This affected the daytime running lights. The left front strut and the firewall were too close and were rubbing together. The gaskets were shrinking around the windshield which were causing the windshield vibrating problems. The windshield sprayer was clogged. The exhaust heat shields were loose. The front door window channels were lubricated and finally replaced because of the excessive rattling noise. The door jambs were irregular which added to the window rattling problem. Updated 01/10/08.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Vista, CA, USA