CarComplaints.com Notes: The 2000 Honda Accord suffers from widespread transmission failure, subframe rust, & problems with the airbag system (SRS). We recommend avoiding this model year like the plague.
The transmission begins slipping & eventually has to be replaced, typically soon after 90,000 miles & with a repair cost of over $2,000.
Subframe rust near the front passenger side wheel has become a problem recently, due to the poorly positioned A/C drain hose directly above that area. Repair cost to the subframe is over $2,000.
The SRS warning light likes to come on due to a defective seat belt sensor -- typically the driver's side. This sensor is covered under Honda's lifetime seat belt warranty, but some dealers charge a $100+ "diagnostic fee" or tell customers the entire SRS unit ($800) is bad.
Our Honda could sit in the garage for a week and have no issues with the battery left but every now and then the car battery would just die after one night in the garage, this happened multiple times. Not even the clock would go. One day when it died we got a mechanic friend round to charge up the battery for us as we were late to meet family. He charged the battery, got the car going and everything seemed to be fine until a couple of minutes when he was about to leave and the car made a really loud hiss of air sound and a big cloud of smoke came out from under the car and filled the garage, the mechanic quickly ran back and switched off the car, he took a look in and around the engine but couldn't pin point the problem so he started the car again to see what it was. After a few seconds the car started pouring out smoke from underneath in the front area of the car, the mechanic switched off the car and told us it was the A/C and unplugged it started the car again and no problem so he told us to visit a vehicle A/C place. We visited one the next day and they said they would just replace the A/C compressor thing and we were fine with that and left. We received a call from the vehicle A/C place to say the car had been sent to another repair place for a faulty relay switch to be replaced and the A/C compressor had been replaced and to collect it the next day. We collected the car and talked to the mechanic and he said the faulty relay switch would have also been the cause for the battery drain. It has now been more than two years since we had the relay switch and A/C compressor replaced and we have had no issues with battery drain.
Solution is to get the A/C relay switch replaced as yours maybe faulty.
New battery...battery drains. Have checked alternator, ok. Have checked fuses..ok
Took battery out to make sure not a faulty battery...does not drain any amps. No lights left on, no radio, does have a factory installed security system......WHAT IS CAUSING THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. HAVE CHECKED EVERYTHING. IF it is the security system. How do you remove the fuse?
Update from Feb 27, 2012: Happy days..finally found out...it's the relay switch to air conditioner compressor...(ac cooling relay). Hope this helps someone else, because this was so frustrating.....
Noticed that my Emergency Brake indicator light, the Battery Charge indicator light, and the lights indicating that a door is open would stay on after the car was started. The lights would turn off if I revved the engine enough. This happened a few times and I didn't think anything of it since the lights went off when I revved up the car. One day, however, about 35 minutes after doing this, my car stalled out. The radio was still working, as were the lights and A/C, yet I couldn't get the car to restart at all (there was simply a clicking noise - the engine wouldn't turn over.) Had the car towed to my mechanic without trying to jump it started (I didn't think it was necessary since, in my experience, when the battery dies, the radio, lights, etc. don't work.) My mechanic charged it, and was able to get it to start right back up. He even left it running to make sure it didn't happen again. I haven't had problems since then until today, when I noticed, once again, that the same indicator lights are staying on until I rev the engine.
My battery is less than 2 years old, as is my alternator and the bolt in the alternator (which literally broke in half on 3 separate occasions). Spoke to a Honda mechanic, thinking that it might be possible that the fact that my SRS indicator light is also on might have something to do with this issue - he claimed that one had nothing to do with the other. Upon doing some research, I see that several others have had this same issue. Help!
My battery becomes entirely drained on an intermittent basis. It will run great for days, it even sat for a week once and still started. Then a few days later, the battery was completely drained again. I had the battery replaced, the alternator replaced and the mechanic replaced. Nobody seems to have an answer. I'm hoping someone here does.
I HAVE A 2000 HONDA ACCORD WITH 118,000 MILES ON IT. IT KEEPS DRAINING THE BATTERY AND THEN IT MAKES A BATTERY THAT IS ONLY A MONTH OLD GO BAD AND NEED TO BE REPLACED. IT WILL HOLD A CHARGE BUT NOT TAKE A LOAD. THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THERE'S NOTHING WRONG -YEAH RIGHT, I HAVE BEEN LOOKING ON THE WEB AND HAVE NOTICED A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME THING. I HAVE DONE SEVERAL TESTS MYSELF BUT HAVE NOT YET FOUND THE PROBLEM. I'M STILL WORING ON IT. IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS HAD THE SAME THING AND YOU GOT IT FIXED, SEND ME A COMMENT AND LET ME KNOW. THANKS (THIS IS WHY I BUY AMERICAN OF COURSE I DIDN'T BUY THIS ONE SOMEONE ELSE DID)
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
Our Honda could sit in the garage for a week and have no issues with the battery left but every now and then the car battery would just die after one night in the garage, this happened multiple times. Not even the clock would go. One day when it died we got a mechanic friend round to charge up the battery for us as we were late to meet family. He charged the battery, got the car going and everything seemed to be fine until a couple of minutes when he was about to leave and the car made a really loud hiss of air sound and a big cloud of smoke came out from under the car and filled the garage, the mechanic quickly ran back and switched off the car, he took a look in and around the engine but couldn't pin point the problem so he started the car again to see what it was. After a few seconds the car started pouring out smoke from underneath in the front area of the car, the mechanic switched off the car and told us it was the A/C and unplugged it started the car again and no problem so he told us to visit a vehicle A/C place. We visited one the next day and they said they would just replace the A/C compressor thing and we were fine with that and left. We received a call from the vehicle A/C place to say the car had been sent to another repair place for a faulty relay switch to be replaced and the A/C compressor had been replaced and to collect it the next day. We collected the car and talked to the mechanic and he said the faulty relay switch would have also been the cause for the battery drain. It has now been more than two years since we had the relay switch and A/C compressor replaced and we have had no issues with battery drain.
Solution is to get the A/C relay switch replaced as yours maybe faulty.
- logannz, Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand