- January 16: Honda Sued Because 2016 CR-V Wasn't Equipped With Certain Features news | 3 days ago
- January 9: Honda Says Recall Should Shut Down Infotainment Lawsuit news | 10 days ago
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- December 17: Honda 1.5L Turbo Engine Reliability Questioned in Lawsuit news | 33 days ago
- December 6: Honda Recalls Passports and Pilots Over Fuel Leak Risk recalls | 44 days ago
CarComplaints.com Notes: The 1999 Honda Accord suffers from widespread transmission failure, subframe rust, engine shuts off while driving, & peeling paint. We recommend avoiding this model year like the plague.
The transmission begins slipping & eventually has to be replaced, typically soon after 100,000 miles & with a repair cost of over $2,000.
Subframe rust near the front passenger side wheel has become a problem recently, due to the poorly positioned A/C drain hose directly above that area. Repair cost to the subframe is over $2,000.
Engine stalling while driving in the 1999 Accord is typically caused by a defective ignition switch -- inexpensive to repair (under $200) but dangerous.
Peeling paint has also been an issue for these Accords. Most of the complaints are with darker paint colors -- especially green & blue.
8.8
pretty bad- Typical Repair Cost:
- $320
- Average Mileage:
- 118,500 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 87 complaints
Most Common Solutions:
- not sure (67 reports)
- new ignition switch (4 reports)
- replaced ignition switch (electrical portion only) (3 reports)
- dealership replaced ignition switch (2 reports)
- i had a problem with my car stalling (2 reports)
- it was the bad ignition switch which needs replacement (2 reports)
engine problem
Helpful websites
- 1999 Honda Accord Stalls While Driving - It just cuts out without warning. Doesn't matter if you are going fast or slow or if engine is hot or cold. No warning light ever comes on. - Seems to be a faulty design of the ignition switch. - Need to replace immobilizer unit of ignition.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
Let me preface this complaint with an update. I received a call yesterday from an investigator at NHTSA regarding my formal complaint. Apparently the letter to my congressman had its intended effect. The investigator had done some research, including reading complaints on this website, and had telephoned American Honda's legal department about my problem. They speculated that my problem was related to the existing recall on defective ignition switches and endeavored to determine if my ignition switch had ever been replaced. They said their research indicated that my ignition had not been replaced under recall as I had remembered, so they promised the NHTSA investigator that they would call me to make arrangements for recall-replacement of my ignition switch. I still believed that my ignition had already been replaced, and I also knew from reading complaints on carcomplaints.com that replacement of the ignition switch generally does not solve this problem, but I was thankful that some progress was being made in having the complaint investigated. However, things have not gone in a positive direction. Please see my previous entries for background, and see my subsequent entries for updates regarding American Honda's continued stonewalling on this issue.
One other update: A nice fellow named Chad who was having "our problem" sent me an email that he had replaced his gas cap with a $5 part from Wal-Mart and that his engine had stopped dying. Apparently there are vacuum-lock issues with the Honda gas cap, one of which causes the CHK ENG light to come on and is described in your owners manual. Upon receiving Chad's email, I immediately replaced my gas cap, but the car started dying again two days later as described below:
I was travelling 65 mph on the freeway when the engine disengaged with a jolt and the system immobilizer light came on (I describe this light in previous entries and shall henceforth refer to it as the "key light", which is more descriptive). The engine was still running but at 0 RPMS. I shifted into neutral and back to drive, which had no effect on the problem. I shifted into neutral again and turned the key. The starter began to grind because the engine was still running, but the engine re-engaged and I continued on my merry way. This was the first time the engine seemed to gear-down with a jolt when the condition occurred. On previous occasions when I lost power, it was as if I just started coasting and there was no jolt. I fear the symptoms associated with this problem are getting worse. My brother's Honda's Odyssey van was having this same problem, and his engine just burned up. He had no choice but to buy a new car (NOT a Honda).
- Ken W., Louisville, TN, US