I bought this car as the 2nd owner from a used car dealer, I immediately had this electrical problem and returned the car, they reassured me they could repair it by replacing the onboard computer. That didn't work. Over the next year and 7000 miles later, it kept coming back and they kept replacing parts (FORD parts) and still it would run for 500 miles and then the electrical would go out. The dash lights blinked, the doors locked on their own and the car lost power, then the engine light stays on. Finally, I returned the car and did an "unwind". The used car dealer, took the car back, gave me my money back and then took the back car to auction. Some poor buyer out there will inherit this problem.
I ran a CarFax on the car and the dealer is not disclosing the problem to CarFax. I have since run a Google search and am finding there are a lot of electrical problems with Ford Transit Connects. There are 5 wiring harnesses. The problem starts with the cargo doors locking for no reason and you can't unlock them. You can stop, get out of the car and suddenly, the side cargo doors lock on their own. The hand remote won't open them. Then when you go to the back cargo doors and open them, the dash sensors flash and start clicking. While driving the car, the dash sensors all start blinking and flickering. Eventually, the car will not start and you get stranded.
5 times I've take this car back to the dealer (not Ford) and they've tried to repair it. I also went to a Ford Dealer and showed them a video and they said $1500. to repair and $138. to investigate and they would not guarantee they could repair it. They acted like they'd never seen this problem before. Everything about the style and function of the Ford Transit Connect are great, it's a very versatile car, but with this electrical issue I decided to return it. I'm not sure I would by another one, if I did, would consider a newer one and only after running a lot of online investigations on common reported issues. Buying a used car from a Used Car Dealer that buys cars from auction, means they buy these cars, dress them up and throw them out on the lot. It's a numbers game. If the car turns out to be something they can't repair, they may take the car back (but not always) and then they take the car back to auction and the cycle starts again. If you take the car back for repairs, their mechanic is a "fix it and dress it up" guy. They're just "flippers", not Ford Techs.
I would consider only buying a Certified Lease return car, where the 1st owner has to maintain the car per the lease. Then by purchasing from the Ford dealer, at least you have trained techs working on the cars and the manufacturer knows about all the recall issues. You might pay a little more, but you'll end up with a better car. 2010 Ford Transit Connect 75,000 miles, 2nd owner bought used with 67,000 miles, paid $10,400. Also, when I bought the car I discovered it had been hit in the back and the back shock bracket put on backwards. The accident was never reported to CarFax.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
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I bought this car as the 2nd owner from a used car dealer, I immediately had this electrical problem and returned the car, they reassured me they could repair it by replacing the onboard computer. That didn't work. Over the next year and 7000 miles later, it kept coming back and they kept replacing parts (FORD parts) and still it would run for 500 miles and then the electrical would go out. The dash lights blinked, the doors locked on their own and the car lost power, then the engine light stays on. Finally, I returned the car and did an "unwind". The used car dealer, took the car back, gave me my money back and then took the back car to auction. Some poor buyer out there will inherit this problem.
I ran a CarFax on the car and the dealer is not disclosing the problem to CarFax. I have since run a Google search and am finding there are a lot of electrical problems with Ford Transit Connects. There are 5 wiring harnesses. The problem starts with the cargo doors locking for no reason and you can't unlock them. You can stop, get out of the car and suddenly, the side cargo doors lock on their own. The hand remote won't open them. Then when you go to the back cargo doors and open them, the dash sensors flash and start clicking. While driving the car, the dash sensors all start blinking and flickering. Eventually, the car will not start and you get stranded.
5 times I've take this car back to the dealer (not Ford) and they've tried to repair it. I also went to a Ford Dealer and showed them a video and they said $1500. to repair and $138. to investigate and they would not guarantee they could repair it. They acted like they'd never seen this problem before. Everything about the style and function of the Ford Transit Connect are great, it's a very versatile car, but with this electrical issue I decided to return it. I'm not sure I would by another one, if I did, would consider a newer one and only after running a lot of online investigations on common reported issues. Buying a used car from a Used Car Dealer that buys cars from auction, means they buy these cars, dress them up and throw them out on the lot. It's a numbers game. If the car turns out to be something they can't repair, they may take the car back (but not always) and then they take the car back to auction and the cycle starts again. If you take the car back for repairs, their mechanic is a "fix it and dress it up" guy. They're just "flippers", not Ford Techs.
I would consider only buying a Certified Lease return car, where the 1st owner has to maintain the car per the lease. Then by purchasing from the Ford dealer, at least you have trained techs working on the cars and the manufacturer knows about all the recall issues. You might pay a little more, but you'll end up with a better car. 2010 Ford Transit Connect 75,000 miles, 2nd owner bought used with 67,000 miles, paid $10,400. Also, when I bought the car I discovered it had been hit in the back and the back shock bracket put on backwards. The accident was never reported to CarFax.
- Rob D., Ramona, CA, US