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10.0
really awful- Typical Repair Cost:
- $10
- Average Mileage:
- 86,300 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 3 complaints
Most Common Solutions:
- not sure (2 reports)
- purchase a new master cylinder, if required. not common (1 reports)
brakes problem
Helpful websites
- No one has added a helpful site for this 2001 Taurus problem yet. Be the first!
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
My 2001 Ford Taurus is having MAJOR ANTI-LOCK BRAKE FAILURE. No leaking lines, calipers and drums seem in good condition, should actuate. Have minimally 5/16" Semi-metallic pads all the way around. Master cylinder not leaking. Wheel sensors seem in good condition. And yes, drum springs where they SHOULD be.
It seems to stop ok on dry pavement, with a slight sponginess to the brakes. They do not go to the floor, then. WHEN ON EVEN A 1/2" OF SLUSH OR SNOW, T O T A L BRAKE FAILURE. Car slides forward as though under power, with brakes fully to the floor, under save-my-life pressure! BRAND NEW TIRES INSTALLED - NOT IT.
A Brrrup, brrrup, brrrup sound comes from the front, left side - which I am told is normal for the antilocks, but there is NO STOPPING POWER! I HAVE NEARLY COLLIDED SEVERAL TIMES in the time this problem has occurred. At first notice, seemed to pull to the right, but with new tires (and alignment) stays in a straight line and no pull on DRY PAVEMENT. On SNOW OR SLUSH, Stops about 50-60 feet past normal braking distance. I am always cautious when approaching a stop, and don't "run-up" to stop signs and slam on the brakes, as some choose to do. Is it POSSIBLE, you might have an answer for me? Thank YOU for your time.
Update from Dec 13, 2014: Upon finding seepage at back of brake MASTER CYLINDER, replaced with a 2001 model from a junked car that was newly crashed - sadly for them, their newly purchased M.C. didn't solve their particular braking problems. No other seepage or faulty brake problems were apparent. A SUGGESTION FOR THOSE WHO SEE NO APPARENT EVIDENCE OF BRAKE FAILURE: 1) First look to see if there is evidence of brake fluid seepage on the back firewall. If it looks wet, there is most likely your problem, the Master Cylinder. 2) When bleeding the brakes, usually you go from the longest runs, to the shortest. The driver side front being the shortest on my car. When all the lines were purged, I WENT BACK OVER and did the DRIVERS' FRONT SIDE,AGAIN !! The line was Full of Air Bubbles, indicating it sucked in air somewhere. That conclusively led back to the Master Cylinder. Once replaced with new, re-bled the brakes - same fashion. Did the driver front side 2X, no air bubbles and brakes that can now stop like a new car! Hope this is a benefit for you.
- raymondmi, Whitehall, MI, US