This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
This past Sunday, on June 11, 2017 I was driving home from a graduation party and there was a loud "pow" once I accelerated from a stop. My steering was very stiff (as if I was driving an ancient large truck with no power steering, also my exhaust system at least partially came undun. I was able to get the crippled car to our regular repair shop, who told me that I had a subframe rust-collapse. I had talked to a shadetree mechanic friend, who said that it wasn't an actual subframe collapse, but the next layer up, the engine cradle whose sleeves are no thicker steel than the unibody sheetmetal. One of the sleeves rusted through. Supposedly the engine cradle sleeves are removable/or the cradle itself. My mechanic friend and the tow fellow that brought my car back to my home, both said that what happened is quite rare, they never heard of such an incident. The cradle rust through caused my front subframe to partially collapse and the engine is tilted down on the right-front. This disconnected the exhaust and bound-up my rack-and-pinion steering, rendering the car unsafe to drive. This car is not a rust-bucket, no rusty body panel holes, and everything else still works! just the paint and clearcoat are flaking-off. I have looked on the internet and searched local salvage yards, but cannot find a good engine cradle/sleeves. Yet, there are scads of good Taurus engines cheaply available. Why didn't Ford offer replacement engine cradle/sleeves" was there no recall" I'd bet I'm not the only person this happened to!! I would like to get this car fixed! I have photos of the subframe fallen after the engine cradle failure. Please send me an E-mail address I can upload them to. I lose this page if I try to upload here (4th time!)
I was driving along when all of a sudden a big bang car slammed pavement began to swerve. Started smoking off burned rubber tire popped an car was broke down wheel dangling.
The contact owns a 1995 Ford Taurus. The contact stated that while reversing from a parking space, the steering wheel seized. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was advised that the under carriage needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 111,000.
The contact owns a 1995 Ford Taurus. While accelerating, the contact stated that the steering wheel would abnormally turn at a 45 degree angle. The dealer stated that there was corrosion and a detachment of bolts in the rear corners of the subframe. The manufacturer was notified but denied any assistance with repairs to the failure because the vehicle was not associated with the NHTSA campaign id number: 98V323000 (structure:frame and members) recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 128,000 and the current mileage was 130,000.
Outer tie rods gone bad at 80,000km speedometer jumps at 60,000km front power windows gone bad at 90,000km I only have 96,000km on my 1995 Ford Taurus SE its now 2009.
- Poco, 00, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
I bought this car used last July. In October I noticed that when I took a left hand turn the steering wheel would stick and I would have to pull it to get it straight. I took it to be fixed but they could not find a problem. This problem has been going on since then. Three days ago I took my kids out for ice cream and we got into an accident. This time the steering wheel locked completely, I could not move it and we slammed into another car. Nobody believed me, it took alot of searching to find out that it was the bushings or something like that. Although I bought this car used it has given me nothing but trouble.
Consumer states that while driving and no warning there is a loud noise coming from the steering wheel causing a distraction to the consumer. Dealer notified. Mr scc
While driving the vehicle is very hard to steer, the consumer believes that the power steering is harder than it should be, the rack and pinion has been replaced yet the problem still exist. Nlm
Replaced original speedometer at 44,979 miles, and again at 80,980 miles. Speedometer needle would fluctuate and get buried at 90 mph and driver wouldn't know how fast they were going. The original part should never have needed to be replaced, much less twice in only 80,980 miles. Contacted Ford, they refused to do anything about it, and we had to pay for parts and repairs for both replacements. First replacement of $295, second (2 years later) was $500. Same dealer.
The original speedometer was replaced (under warranty) at approximately 27,000 miles because it became erratic over 40 mph. Erractic means that once I get above 40 mph, the speedometer needle constantly bounces between 35 mph and 85 mph and makes various high-pitched or "growling-type" noises. It vary rarely would steady itself at one rate. Eastgate Ford replaced the speedometer with the first problem. With the replacement speedometer, I experienced the same erratic behavior after only 10,000 - 15,000 miles. I have not replaced it because I was provided a quote of $450 to replace the unit. When searching the web and the technical service bulletins for this problem, it states that there may not have been enough lubricant placed in the speedometer cable during manufacture. The only way to "repair" this problem is to replace the unit. Obviously this is a manufacturing defect. I firmly believe this is a safety issue as I have no idea what speed I am traveling on city roads or highways once I get above 40 mph. I have to drive at approximately the same rate of speed as the other vehicles around me and hope that they are driving at/around the speed limit. I am also concerned that I am wearing out the plastic needle and any associated bearings because of the noises that are generated. If the bearings wear out, I will not be able to tell my rate of speed at any time, including school zones! an interesting note is that my step-mother has a 1993 Ford escort with the same problem. My husband's co-worker also has a Ford vehicle with the exact same speedometer problems. Is there any way to get Ford to recall these speedometers? this is my third Ford vehicle and will now be my last because this is so annoying. Please advise if there is anything I can do to assist you any further.
Speedometer/odometer malfunctioned/replaced (39,000 miles)but now vehicle is tmu-true mileage unknown-any recourse?dashboard vibrates intensely at 70-75mph. Tires balanced, rotated, replaced. Struts(4) replaced, steering components checked but still vibration. Appears that dash does not have enough support.
The original failed at approx. 31,000. The second failed at approx. 37,000. The third at approx. 41,000, and am now on the fourth speedometer. Needle jumps at speeds above approx. 55mph when hitting bumps.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- High Ridge, MO, USA