This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
While driving away from my curbside parking spot to go to work, the dashboard lights started flashing and said something along the lines of "break system failure" or "check break systems", and I was unable to brake at all. I managed to change course and pull over and let the car stop on its own. Once stopped, I turned the car off and then back on again. I tried to slowly move and then brake, at which time the brakes were successful and stopped the car. I drove the short distance back to my house and took an alternate vehicle. This is incredibly concerning considering I carry my wife and three children in it and we frequently take long road trips to see family. Had this happened on one of those trips, especially while driving long distances on freeways that tend to bottleneck, the results could have been devastating, not just for us but also others.
According to Ford car needs hcu unit and ECU. Just had the car fully serviced and new brakes all around. Tires are new as well. Ford wants $3000 to replace the hcu and ECU and drain the brake fluid. I think I'm gonna have to scrap the car.
4/18/17 I went to leave my home in my 2012 Ford Fusion hybrid and as I pulled out of my house and proceeded to my first stop light, I was in motion going downward on a slight hill in my neighborhood and I noticed my breaks just drop to the floor and break pedals seemed to stiffen in their flexibility and I was headed straight for a red light. I was extremely terrified and did the best I could to maintain the car under my control.. I noticed the dash was full of red lights saying 'check break system ' and ABS lights were on as well ass 2 traction control llights. Had weather conditions been different and my son been in the car this could have posed a threat to our lives. It's extremely dangerous and quite unpleasant to imagine what feels like loosing your breaks. But I don't believe this is the case!! up until now I have not had any issues with my breaks, never shown any signs to be concerned with ABS the car has 32K miles on it shouldn't need breaks or master C it's a faulty ABS module.. I don't believe anything is actually wrong with the car. After I pulled over I turned car off and back on after checking in out a few times I started the car and noticed it looked normal for a second unlike other trys so I started to drive breaks felt fine came back up like normal and car worked but after 20 seconds of driving it' cut back out flashing red warning signs and beeping. Breaks sink down and become hard to control. I see this is common problem I need this fixed I'm extremely up set how after 32K this goes out and is not a small fix.
When trying to start the car from park all warning lights illuminated, car would not turn over. Let car reset, and able to turn it over. Ford self system check via dash cluster will show brake and hybrid electric charging system problems but will reset itself after next key cycle. Not able to find codes for problem. Owned car approx 8 months, experienced problem 4 times all within 1 month.
The contact owns a 2012 Ford Fusion hybrid. The vehicle was repaired under Ford's customer satisfaction that was related to NHTSA action number: PE14030 (steering). The contact stated that while driving approximately 55 mph, the brake system warning, advanced tac, and ABS warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was driven to the contact's residence. The contact powered the vehicle off and back on; however, when the vehicle was placed in reverse, the contact depressed the brake pedal and the pedal went to the floorboard and failed to stop the vehicle. The vehicle continued in reverse into oncoming traffic and nearly caused a crash. The contact powered the vehicle off and back on and the brake pedal returned to normal. The contact drove the vehicle to an independent mechanic, however, the mechanic was unable to diagnose the failure. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the brake drum was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 73,800.
- Union, SC, USA
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This is 3rd of 3 complaints because car was taken to dealer three times for three incidents with same symptoms. (I don't recall the temperature. Wunderground.com recorded 10 deg F as the low.) as with the first incident on Feb 16, the following occurred: Started car from being cold overnight. Let engine run no more than 3 minutes prior to backing out of drive way. Made two successful stops. Drove 3/8 mile from last stop while traveling at 30 mph. Slowed to make right turn on desired street because traffic light was green. While turning brake warning light illuminated. ABS failure, stability control and traction control failure lights illuminated. Vehicle was very hard to stop with foot brake. Loss of all power assistance for stopping. But was easier to stop since repair from previous repairs on 2/16/15 and 2/23/15. Dealer recorded ABS system test and diagnostic pinpoint test for the third time, contacted hotline id 108388128, for abnormal diagnostic pinpoint testing, connector access, C135 and C1602, performing ABS bleeding and calibration twice, with abnormal circuit testing, load test while measuring voltage drop across circuits cca22 and vca22, per hotline, both elements are bright with no measured voltage drop, also abnormal road testing and verification due to intermittent concerns, before and after repairs, replaced the ABS control module, performed programmable module installation and calibration again, ppt, P8, road test, verified repairs. Currently, with 28673 miles on March 21, the vehicle has performed flawlessly since this 3rd of 3 service visits.
This is 2nd of 3 complaints because the car was taken to the dealer three times for three incidents with same symptoms. Temperature was -3 deg F exactly as was on the previous complaint. Started car from being cold overnight. Let engine run no more than 3 minutes prior to backing out of drive way. After two successful stops and while accelerating to around 15 - 20 mph, brake warning light illuminated. ABS failure, stability control and traction control failure lights illuminated (left off stability control warning from previous report). Vehicle was very hard to stop with foot brake. But was easier to stop since repair from previous week on 2/16/15. Dealer recorded ABS system test, C0022, ABS pinpoint test P, circuit test brake booster solenoid, intermittent brake booster solenoid operation per ppt P6, replaced the brake booster assembly per ppt P7.
Temperature was -3 deg F. started car from being cold overnight. Let engine run no more than 3 minutes prior to backing out of drive way. Made two successful stops. Drove 3/8 mile from last stop while traveling at 30 mph. Slowed to make right turn on desired street because traffic light was green. While turning brake warning light illuminated. ABS failure and traction control failure lights illuminated. Vehicle was very hard to stop with foot brake. Loss of all power assistance for stopping. Dealer recorded ABS system test, C0022, ABS pinpoint test P, circuit test, excessive resistance between pins 17 and 31. At ABS module connector C135, 3.3 ohms, trace, removed and installed PCM and master cylinder to access and repair wire circuits cca22 grey with yellow and vca22 green with brown, green corrosion at connector C1602 pins 3 and 4 near the brake booster solenoid connector.
When leaving my driveway the brakes failed to function properly and I almost rolled into a car on the street. I came to understand that the power assist failed. But the experience was that they didn't work until the brake pedal was nearly to the floor, and very soft. I drove slowly forward and they continued to not work. I turned off the car and had it towed to a dealer for service. Apparently when the service people turned on the car the brakes worked and they couldn't get the problem to repeat, but the computer on the car logged a brake incident. Ford wouldn't do anything for me and told me to keep driving the car until it happened again. They said if they fixed something they would give me a "false sense of security". in searching online I found this identical problem had been part of a recall on earlier models (2010) that was a software glitch.
Car was being driven down steep driveway by my 88-year-old father. He says car accelerated without him giving it gas. He is backed up by black box, which says no pressure on accelerator. He also says brakes didn't work, which is not backed up by black box, which says no pressure on brake either. Car left driveway, hit tree, and ended up approx 200 yards down steep hill. Black box says rolling occurred. Only passenger side curtain airbags deployed. No front airbags deployed and no driver side curtain airbags deployed. Injuries to both him and his companion resulted in hospitalization to both.
Traveling on crowded highway when cars ahead stopped; my brakes when thump thump thump then I rear-ended the car in front of me. Car did not slow down at all. Fortunately no one was killed or seriously injured, but my insurance will definitely go up. Taking the car to the dealer on Monday morning.
The check engine light had illuminated. Called the dealership and scheduled an appointment to bring it in that day. Driving at 45 miles an hour, again, warning chime sounded, pull over safely warning came on, engine shut off, brakes and accelerator disengaged, and all dashboard lights illuminated. Pulled to the side of the road and shut car off. I was too far from dealership to have it towed and was working (I travel for my job). Called dealership, they said to bring it in. Able to restart it after 2-3 attempts. Brought it to the dealership. No code for no start or shut off but code for fuel canister. Problem addressed, fixed, and car returned to me. Could not activate, car returned with instructions to 'have it towed here and do not restart it when it breaks down. After, this incident, I traded cars with my brother (who works 5 miles from home) so that he could easily have it towed if it were to occur again.
Picked up the car from the dealership on Monday (9/25/12) after they found something wrong and was driving on state route 228 at 55 mile per hour. Warning chime sounded, pull over safely warning came on, engine shut off, brakes and accelerator disengaged, and all dashboard lights illuminated. Put hazards on for cars behind me and pulled over quickly avoiding a sign on the right side of the road. After 10-15 mins, I was able to restart the car by letting it reset. After getting green car indicator, I went to turn around to go back to the dealership. The car jumped forward and stalled in the intersection of state route 228 and buck hill rd. I was able to have it start, jump, and stall two times (enough to get me out of the intersection). Upon arriving the dealership, they could not find any codes that were disrupted. The service manager contacted Ford tech line and drove it home for a few days to try to activate problem. Could not activate, car returned with instructions to have it towed here and do not restart it when it breaks down.
While driving to natural bridge, va on interstate 81. Warning chime sounded, pull over safely warning came on, engine shut off, brakes and accelerator disengaged, and all dashboard lights illuminated. Immediately put on hazards and tried to pull over. Avoided signs and maneuvered car safely to a speed where I could stop car by putting in park. Attempted to restart car. When able to obtain "green car" light (as indicated safe to drive), put the car in drive and pushed accelerator. Car jumped forward and stalled. Able to restart car after 10-15 mins. After this occurred, car was having trouble accelerating and was shaking while driving. Could not have it towed back to dealership due to location. Contact dealership right away and brought it to them as soon as returning home (April 15th). Demanded it to be fixed before returning car. Unsafe and unacceptable dealership could not get codes or reactivation... dealership in contact with Ford tech service who informed them to change the battery to try to activate. They did this and within 10 mins of driving it tech reported warning chime sounded, pull over safely warning came on, engine shut off, breaks and accelerator disengaged, and all dashboard lights illuminated. Ford tech service contacted again who informed them to check all fuses and wires. Dealership could not find any problems. Dealership ordering new part today to test.
Was backing car out of garage to take it for an oil change and 10,000 mile check. All dashboard lights illuminated, warning chime sounded. Not able to engage brakes or accelerator. Stopped car by putting it in park. No response of trying to restart. Resulting in contacting Ford road side assistance and having it towed to the dealership. Dealership thought it was anti-theft, contacted Ford tech line and found no "test voltage at PCM, no voltage found no voltage at fuse, F49, F40 and F39 traced problem to pin 5 at PCM relay in auxiliary relay box pin was not seated all the way. Repaired and retested working properly".
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Danville, CA, USA