This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
While stopped at a red light the car spontaneously shut off and had to be put in park and restarted. This happened 3 times in the past 2 weeks on extremely hot days. No engine warning light has come on.
3-4 times a year my 2017 Ford Escape doesn't automatically start after auto stop start turns the engine off and i have to shift into park and restart the car. This has happened basically since new.
I-??ve had my 2017 Ford Escape EcoBoost since December 3, 2020, I first noticed a problem around late November 2021 (after Thanksgiving). I would put fuel in my car and it would putter (idled low) when I started it back up. As this issue became progressively worse, I began to notice around mid January 2022 that I would have to refill my antifreeze at least once per 2wks but there wasn-??t any leakage on the ground, check engine light came on but went off on its own a few days later. In late March 2022 the check engine light came back on and stayed on, so on May 23, 2022 I took it to CarX for an engine diagnosis. The diagnostic revealed misfire codes concerning #4 coil and to replace sparks plugs, also an EVAP Purge Valve Solenoid Assembly would be required (I have an image of the print-out for the diagnostic). I-??ve had the #4 coil and spark plugs replaced by a reputable mechanic (on 6/1/2022), ordered the purge valve solenoid (which hasn-??t arrived yet), and I have had the air filter replaced. In spite, of these initial repairs the car has run hot (on 6/4/2022), and the radiator reservoir is extremely low. When it did start this morning (6/5/2022), it took 3 tries for the engine to turn over, and there was blueish white smoke coming from the tail pipe. I-??ve researched the vin number and noticed that there are no recalls, despite numerous complaints of this nature. Sadly, now my vehicle won-??t start at all.
Upon parking the vehicle in my driveway, the vehicle would not turn off after turning off he ignition and removing the key. All the dash lights were on as the would be normally and the engine remained running. Tired everything including in and out of gear, driving, turned key on and off several times, tired both keys. Googled and seen there had been similar issues with earlier models that resulted in a recall, but this is a 2017. Found some online suggestions and after an hour figured out where the fuel pump fuse was and removed it and the engine stopped. The dash still stayed lit up and had a warning to get engine serviced. Put key in ignition and turned to run not start position and vehicle cranked and tried to start. Could not get dash console to power down or look the doors, the horn would beep twice every time I tried to lock the doors. Ended up disconnecting the battery to kill the power to everything. Plan to take it to Ford today if I can get it started again.
The purge valve sylanoid is malfunctioning. Every dealership and auto store in my town is out of the part and backordered, which tells me this is a common problem.
- Stansbury, UT, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
After filling my gas tank and stopping fueling when the gas pump stops, the car begins to act like it is going to stall when I start driving. The rpms will drop down from 1250 to around 300-400 and shoot back up. This will only last for about a mile or two of driving and go away. It is happening consistently and other internet users appear to have issues with completely stalling. It appears to be caused by a faulty "vapor canister purge valve."
Recurring issue with the same ignition coil/spark plug complex where the engine will misfire on a cold start. I have replaced the ignition coil 3 times and each time it fails within 3 weeks. I have had the engine pressure tested and there are no issues that would cause misfiring. This appears to be an electrical feedback issue.
I'm getting a gas smell in my vehicle it getting stronger when I turn on my heater or defroster.when I shut my car off theres still a gas smell purchased the car in the summer so there was no need for the heater or defroster once I started noticed it when cooler weather started
The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The vehicle would sputter and stall the evap system was faulty the contact stated that while driving at various speeds the check engine light would illuminate and the vehicle would sputter and stall. Also after refueling the engine would not immediately start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the entire evap system was faulty and needed to be replaced, including the purge solenoid, canister, and the fuel tank pressure sensor. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but no assistance was offered. The local dealer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 70,000.
Vehicle has been making loud noises from the fuel tank when driving at slower speeds (20 and under) and when coming to a stop. The RPM goes very low, almost stalling out. Purge valve and canister need to be replaced and are not covered under warranty. The Ford Fusion has had a recall on this same exact issue, and my vehicle falls within the years recalled. This seems to be a common problem when speaking with others whose vehicle is around the same year. This is not safe as I had my vehicle in the shop for 3 days and the problem was not able to be located until I was able to capture a video.
The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. On three separate occasions, while at a stop light/sign, the eco boost system malfunctioned and the engine erroneously shut off. During the failure, the message "put the vehicle in park and restart the vehicle with the ignition key" was displayed. The cause of the failure was not determined. Skyline Ford (2510 commercial St. SE, salem, or) was notified of the failure. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 26,000.
I've had multiple problems with this vehicle.1st problem is when I came to a stop at the set of stop lights in gloucester MA. The engine shut off. At that point I have to restart the car. It has happened on multiple occasions.it didn't happen at the dealership so was told it would have to happen when the had the car. 2nd problem, the engine light came on. The dealership said it just needed to be reset, 2 weeks later the engine light returned. Brought to dealership this time the dealership said the engine needed to be replaced due to coolant that was getting into the motor. I looked up problems with the 2017 Ford Escape and there were a lot of complaints about the engines needing to be replaced because of coolant getting into the motor or basically the head gasket had failed and is a known problem with the motor.they had my car for 4 weeks and had to pick up a rental car. I had to call the dealership to see if my car was finished. Because they never called. When I called I found out the car would be done in 2 days. When I received the car back it wasn't running the same as when I purchased it, plus it now pulls to the right while driving. 3rd, the clock in vehicle keeps changing time. Asked the dealership if there was a problem with the computer. They said no. 12/4/2019 2 weeks after getting car back, now it won't start and is dead in my driveway.
When I am at a stop light. The car will turn off, it is very dangerous. I have to restart the car. I almost have been in many accidents. I don't understand why there hasn't been a recall for this car. I see online that everyone is having this prroblem.
The next day after purchase September 2018, I noticed a slight slippage to the transmission and took the car back because the warning lights were on and the car would proceed to move at a low speed. I was told the vehicles fluids needed to be changed. The next day the issue persisted, I returned to the dealership again and was told the brakes needed to be replaced. On both occasions the monster dealership handled this. The issue with feeling the transmission jerk continued. May 2019 the transmission failure appeared (codes listed below) it was serviced by a&B transmission. Withing 48 hours the issue returned. It appears as though the transmission overheats after driving short distances. After several attempts from may-July the issue could not be fixed and continues as of today. The delay in reporting is that I had no idea this was here, please advise I would like to resolve this. Code P0741-00 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance/ stuck off - current dtc - warning lamp on. Code P1744-00 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance/ stuck off - current dtc - warning lamp on. P1450-00 unable to bleed up fuel tank vaccum - -pending dtc - warninglamp on.
My car had a misfire shortly after I bought it, they replaced some parts in 2017, then my air conditioner quit running cold, the dealership replaced a couple parts in 2018, now in 2019, the engine misfires again leading to an entire engine replacement.
The mpg of this car has been infuriatingly bad since I bought it two years ago. I kept thinking it was just a normal difference between the specs and real life driving, but I am not getting anywhere close to the 25 mpg combined that is advertised on the sticker. I am at 17.4 combined, and its never been any better than that.
8000 miles. The auto start stop system will not restart after stopping. It has not restarted after stopping in intersection to make left turn. Also after stopping at stop signs and stop lights. And when stopped on a hill at a stop sign, the vehicle will not restart, and rolls out into the street with no power brakes or power steering. A truly unsafe car. Dealer finds no codes and cannot duplicate, so will not service.
I have the start/stop on my 17 Escape. With 16000 miles. When coming to a stop and the auto start/stop comes on, I will get a notification on the digital screen saying "auto start/stop shift to P restart engine." I will have to put the vehicle in park and restart engine to be able to drive again. This is a hazard for potential rear end collision.
While driving 40 mph in the city, I felt a jolt, engine was still running, but had zero gas pedal response. RPM slowly bled off as I was able to coast into a parking lot while dodging through traffic. When the jolt was felt, a "check manual" message appeared on the driver's information screen. No other messages or check engine light came on. I shut down the vehicle and re-started it and I was able to drive normal again. I then had it towed to Ford. They checked and found no codes. Checked electronic throttle body, test drove it, and could not replicate the failure.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Commerce Charter Township, MI, USA