This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Throttle quit working.would only idle and check engine light and wrench light came on.pulled off on the side of the road and had to cut engine off and back on to get throttle working. Happened again one week later.just lucky was not on interstate in heavy traffic doing 70 mph. Both times engine code was P2111, throttle actuator stuck open. Vehicle has 60000 miles on it and dealer said throttle body was not under power train and was only covered under the 3/36 warranty. Purchased new throttle body at dealer and parts manager said it was the fourth revision to the part number. Hope they got it right this time, it could put you in a very dangerous situation.
My Ford Escape was stopping multiple times. It would stay running in very slow movement until I could pull over out of traffic and then it would shut down. Then wrench light would be lit. I had this happen while driving side roads and the interstate. This was very unsafe. I first took it to a dealer near my home and they could not find anything wrong. When this happened one morning on the interstate, I called the dealer I bought the vehicle from and took it in. They called me later that day and stated that the issue was the throttle body control, they stated that since my vehicle was no longer under warranty that I would have to pay for the replacement and that they had to order the part. It seems that these were an issue and the could not receive from manufacture right away due to a release issue. They finally were able to obtain one and I had to pay $371.79 for this to be fixed. Even though I was no longer under warranty I feel that I should not have had to pay this, from doing research it seems to be a manufactures issue.
Driving the car would result in the car to stall. This is an automatic vehicle. I would have to put into neutral to restart car. Then the RPM would jump then stall again. I took in the vehicle to be repaired and found code that the throttle body was stuck closed so the car would be able to drive without the throttle body being replaced. After fixed the problem went away. The problem is $500 later after the repair and the car had not even broke the 50K yet. Very bad problem and seems a if I am no the only one. After looking it up to see if I could get the parts myself I saw that this is happening to a lot of different Ford vehicles at the same time in the same range of years. This is a huge problem and just glad the kids weren't in the cars as I was driving on the interstate.
The car just quit on the four lane highway in the passing lane and a couple of times on the city street in town found the throttle body and motor assemble bad.
- Toledo, OH, USA
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While driving tonight I lost power and came to a complete stop. I was on my way home from work and luckily not on the freeway. I am 21 weeks pregnant and this really scared me. I had the car towed to the Ford dealer. When they called to tell us what was wrong they said it was the throttle body. It is no longer under warranty. Before we gave them the ok to fix it we looked online and discovered that this was a known issue with the Ford Escapes. When I called back I asked if what we read was true and if this part gets replaced a lot on these cars. The service person confirmed. I then asked if it became a recall would we get our money back and I was told we would. This car is only 2.5 years old and we had to replace something already. $475 out of our pocket!
After coming to a near stop, the engine began to surge and the vehicle lurched 6 or 7 times. After touching the throttle, the engine became responsive again.
At highway speed, engine and drive train became totally unresponsive on congested dallas freeway. Wrench light came on, no other indications. Vehicle lost all speed and was forced to cross traffic lanes with no motive power to safety lane very nearly causing three different traffic accidents with other vehicles. Totally limp. Once parked, shut off motor and restarted. Engine started and drive train engaged again. Wrench light no longer appeared, no other indicating lamps or errors. Returned to roadway and within 5 minutes same thing recurred. Pulled over, restarted engine, drive train reengaged, returned to roadway and exited to side roads to home. Once on the side road, same thing happened again in front of a semi coming up from behind and narrowly escaped getting hit from behind before pulling over again. Same routine occurred 4 more times before I could get it into the dealership. Last occurrence in addition to the wrench light coming on and off, the engine light came on and stayed on. Vehicle condition is known, reported multiple times and has been investigated by the nthsb already without a recall. This known condition is extremely dangerous to the operators of affected vehicles and to other unsuspecting motorist and the general public. Pressure needs to be applied to Ford Motor Company to address this matter and notify affected owners and operators of affected vehicles. Today the vehicle is at the dealership and with just a thousand or so miles over warranty, dealer says it is not covered and the estimated $600 repair is my issue.
Engine speed became unsteady, rising and falling despite steady, even pressure on throttle pedal. Soon after, the engine would die after returning to idle following a stop. Not long after that, unsteady engine speed became more noticeable both at idle and while driving.
My vehicle stalled twice yesterday while going though busy intersections and the wrench light came on. I would pull over at a super slow speed and then turn the car off and back on. Finding this rare for a well maintained 2 year old vehicle, I looked up "Escape stalling" on google and found a plethora of complaints. I took it to the dealer today and mentioned what was happening with the car and what I had seen on the internet and he didn't give any credence to it. I am still waiting for a diagnosis and hope the problem can be repaired. Luckily there was no one behind me either time...but this could have easily been a very nasty accident because there is no warning that the car is going to stall. Notes: I purchased the vehicle in NJ February 2011
While driving on my morning work commute I was stunned when my 2011 Ford Escape just became unresponsive and was coasting on a 5 lane freeway doing 65 mph. I really did not know what was going on since the only signal that could classify a problem was the little wrench light at the bottom left of the dashboard that was on. I did not do anything out of the ordinary, and I did not notice anything out of the ordinary with the ride. My observations - rpms dropped below 1,000, speed was coasting but dropping since there was no acceleration, electrical was on, steering was sluggish like something was wrong, and a small shaking of the vehicle occurred. The only thing I could do is put my blinker to move to the shoulder but my fellow commuters did not respect that very well. So I promoted my desired to get off the freeway by turning my hazard emergency lights and that's when they started to move away from me to get to the shoulder. My experience did rattle me since I felt hopeless in a sense that I wanted to hit the brake and remembered that I was on a freeway which would be really bad. After pulling over to the shoulder I did manage to turn the vehicle off completely pull the key out and give it about a minute. After I started it up again I figured it was a single occurrence, which I was wrong when it happened again on the way home but I was down the street from my house.
The car stopped responding to the gas pedal as I was merging into traffic. I pulled over, turned the car off and waited 15 minutes. I turned it back on, had the same behavior when I tried pulling out of the parking lot. I had to toe the vehicle to the dealership. The mechanic knew right away what the issue was, mentioning that it was common. The dealer replaced the throttle body and charged a $100 premium to use my warranty, despite it being a "known" issue.
I was driving at about 35mph and half way up a slit hill when the check engine and wrench light came on and the engine lost power. I quickly put my hazards on, stopped and restarted the car. Luckily it started right up and I was able to move because I was on the down slop of the hill and other cars could not see me right away.
While driving on the highway, my SUV jerked slightly and then just decelerated, and I could not maintain speed. I had to cross over 3 lanes to the side of the road and turned the SUV off. There was no warning, and I had not applied the break. I noticed the wrench light came on the dashboard. I waited a minute and turned the SUV on again. I was able to get to my destination, however, during this trip, the SUV jerked slightly again, but this time there was a slight acceleration. I was able to maintain a safe speed for the remainder of the trip, as it only lasted for a couple seconds. I contacted the service department of the dealership where I purchased the car and where I regularly take the car for maintenance. The serviceman knew exactly what the problem was when I described the problems I was having. He suggested I bring the car in for service as soon as possible. The car was towed to the dealership, and they replaced the electronic throttle. I was told it was not covered under warranty, but since I had an extended warranty, they would only charge me $100. When I picked up the car, I actually paid $106, and I was never informed that this was a recalled part. I should not have been charged anything, as Ford was well aware that this part was defective and have been for many months now.
Engine began to stall intermittently at different speeds. Restart vehicle and it would run fine until without warning it would stall again. The wrench would light up on dashboard when stalling. Took vehicle to Ford to have checked out, was told throttle body needed to be replaced. Of course it was out of warranty. Three hundred forty five dollars later it seemed to be repaired, that is until today 09/21/2013 it started to have the same stalling condition. Will be taking it back to have it checked out again asap before it causes an accident. The vehicle now has 62,328 miles on it. We also have trouble with the check engine light coming on intermittently. The obd indicates the O2 sensors are not heating up properly. This seems to mostly happen when the weather is cold or sometimes when it rains. Weird ! thank you so much for your assistance in this matter. Automakers need to be held responsible by some one for selling unreliable and dangerous vehicles to us and then expect us to keep paying for their mistakes! thank you
While driving down the highway my vehicle went straight to limp mode with no warning at all. I had to pull to the side of the highway while traffic was stopping behind me and trying to pass me. A wrench light and check engine light came on and I could not throttle my vehicle at all. I cut the ignition off, let it sit a minute and cranked it again. The problem went away. This has happened numerous times the last 2 days. It has happened while trying to go through intersections and while turning across traffic. The diagnostics at advanced auto shows throttle body stuck open. This is a very dangerous situation that seems to be happening to a lot of these vehicles.
My daughter was entering an intersection preparing to turn left. When she got enough of a clearing between vehicles to turn she went to accelerate to go thru with the left turn and she had no gas to go. The peddle hit the floor and the car died. She was able to coast thru the light with out being hit. But after that the car had to be towed home. We had to replace the throttle body on the vehicle. She was very lucky not to be in a serious crash because of this part going bad!
Traveling in a highway, car suddenly decelerates and engine slows to about 800 RPM. The car engine does not shut off but pressing on accelerator has no effect on engine speed and the car will not move forward. Putting it in park or neutral has no effect either. I was able to turn the engine off using ignition switch and when I turned it back on the throttle operated normally. From the first time the incident has occurred it has repeated itself every few days with repeats getting more often. I was out of state when it occurred so had to return home to get car repaired. Waiting on appointment now.
Traveling at 40mph yielding onto an entrance ramp and the car just dies with no warning. Stop the car and it started back up. Drove it for another day with no problems and two days later it died againg trying to accelerate. It has since repeated this 4 times.
Pulling onto a exit ramp, lost throttle response, rpms were erratic 1000. Was able to off to the side, turned engine off, waited a few minutes, restarted. Drove another 2 or so miles, same issue, but now with engine light on and wrench light on. After another wait and restart, same result. Three failures in 7 miles. Upon arriving home, I used my obd code reader to pull a "P2112) fault code. I purchased and replaced the throttle plate controller, ($350) that evening from my local Ford dealer. So far, a week later (knock on wood), have not had another occurrence. Btw the replacement Ford part is a different updated part.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Dublin, VA, USA