This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
During routine maintenance my mechanic told me the sub frame of my 2010 FordEscape had a serious problem. It appears there is a design flaw which allows condensation from the air conditioner to be traped and ultimately rust through compromising the frame. They said they didn't recommend driving the car, because if the frame failed the right wheel could detatch causing a catastrophic event. This rust only exists on the passenger side.
Just 120000 km. Because of the water drops from the AC, that part of front frame badly rusted and perforated. Because of the improper design, my 120000 km car now is not safe to drive.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked and unoccupied in the garage, fumes entered the garage and into the house. The contact had to park the vehicle outside. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact washed the vehicle at the carwash, but the odor of fumes persisted. The contact scheduled an appointment with the local dealer, but the vehicle was not yet diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted, and they referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The failure mileage was 90,000.
On 8/17/2023 My daughter was on the highway and said she was having a problem after hitting a pothole. I told her to return home. Subframe Broke after hitting a second minor pothole on a side road close to my home. Passenger side tire (fell off?) was turned 90 degrees under the wheel well while the driver side tire was still pointing straight forward. About a 60 foot skid mark dragging the passenger tire at a 90 degree angle until she could pull the vehicle over. If this happened on the highway, I fear the worst would have happened to my daughter. Also, I see that the rear frame is rotted on both sides near the rear shocks.
The evaporative emissions canister purge control valve is making my car jerk when accelerating and does not make my car run correctly. This causes an -??rubber-?? smoke smell and could end up causing more issues down the line. The muffler and exhaust, a/c condenser does not function properly
- Fairborn, OH, USA
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UNKNOWN Passenger side rear quarter panel rusting above tire well. No other rust on vehicle. In review of online complaints this is common for Ford Escape-??s 2008-2012.
Rear frame over rear tires, rusting through frame, I was told by collision shop that the 2008 through 2012 has this problem and Ford motor company has done nothing to fix this problem. It is a safety problem and everyone knows about it and nothing has been done. If this area breaks the driver can lose control and kill someone, I don't think this problem should be ignored any longer. I've kept my escape in mint condition and just found out about this problem. I hope you can look into this and resolve the problem before someone dies because of it. Thank you From: Coy Tidwell
Talked to [XXX] (service Manager) AutoNation Ford regarding issues encountered. Service recall dates back to Nov 16, 2017 where recall issue was not completed correctly. We had contacted AutoNation Ford to address this fuel leak issue. Original recall (16S41) description was about fuel leak underneath the vehicle and after service recall completed in 2017 the issue persisted. This would have caused gasoline leakage causing dangerous condition operating vehicle. This has also been forwarded to NHTSA. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).-??
My power steering went out after I got my car. My starter doesn-??t work I have to use a button on my keys to always start my car the key will not start my car. It-??s very hard to turn my car and it went out while I was making a turn and myself siblings and boyfriend almost got hit by an oncoming car. The car has not been inspected, I can have my car looked at most likely upon request unless I have work but I can come in the next available day. There were no messages or warnings to my car or any symptoms before they went out.
Power steering assist fault is on the dashboard and I can barely turn the wheel. This happened while driving 65mph on the highway over wolf creek pass and with the snow I could have driven off the cliff or knocked another vehicle off. Unknown. Unknown. Not yet. No warnings it just jolted and then barely turns. Adaptive Cruise Control I will be driving using Cruise control or without and it will start up and just keep speeding up until I stop it. The car randomly speeding up on its own is dangerous if it does this at all. Unknown. Unknown. Not yet. No warnings and it has happened a good six times so fat. The Jerry app says I have 5 recalls on this vehicle I have already fixed the only one I knew about which is the gas line but I am wondering about the other 4? I am clearly having an issue that seems directly related to the recalls but your site says that I don't have any. I will double check the carfax but I am pretty sure that im the only one to address this. Please advise.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving approximately 15 - 20 MPH, the power steering assist failed, and the steering wheel was difficult to turn. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 250,000.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the steering wheel locked up. The power steering assist fault message was displayed. The contact called the local dealer, but vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated the failure was like NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V284000 (Steering). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
First I notice the car just drop gears and nearly stop on the off ramp of the highway. Second time I tried to reverse and it would not move and I had to call a tow truck to take it to the garage. Ford told me it needed a new transmission. Ford dealership wanted to charge me over $ 5000 for the job. I winded up going to a lee myles that charge cost to $ 4000 for the repairs it had done. Now few months later and the vehicle is shaking upon start up and idiling. Whenever I drive the car it feels like its jerks slightly when going at higher speeds. Changed out the air filter, rebuilt transmission and still having problem after problems with this 2010 Ford Escape.
The car has had issues starting since I brought it from a used dealer last September. Over time it got more difficult to crank. I started checking youtube to see if it were just me and came to learn that there is a great multitude of others having the same issue with their Ford Escapes. The locking mechanism from the key that flips the ignition switch is either too week or it doesn't turn far enough for the vehicle to crank. I have had to remove the covering from my steering wheel and manually use the spare key as an extension of the O E inside the ignition, in order for the vehicle to crank. The same process is required in turning the car off. Right now it works, however could be a hazard with all of the wiring in the steering wheel exposed. And who is to say that one day the vehicle won't just shut off in the middle of the highway with the key and ignition switch having an imaginary physical connection?
Driving vehicle down highway at approximately 70mph, hit bump from road construction. Surface was slightly elevated, steering wheel jerked and then was tilted approximately 30 degrees off center to the left. Lifted vehicle and inspected, found K-frame on passenger side was rotting through and had partially detached. Causing alignment to change. Not much material is holding it on still.
Driving on main local road appx 30 mph when the check engine light popped on, then the car suddenly died, I was able to swerve to park, shut restart car, car sputtered made it ten feet and died again. Went to mechanic, he checked alternator, battery, and ran the code test could find nothing wrong, driving again appx 1 week later same thing happens again. Mechanic can find nothing wrong. My car does not even have 60,000 miles on it. I am the only owner, and have maintained my car as recommended. If me and my family should get injured or die in this car our blood is on Ford.
A vibration sporadically occurs in the steering wheel when idling mostly but not only. At first I thought it was related to the A/C unit but it happens whether on or off. Temperatures are not affected on gages. I believe this was why the vehicle only had 55,000 miles on it when I bought it in 2018. The vibration occurs when moving or stationary when it happens its seems completely random. It has been happening noticeably for about a year now. At least noticeably. Probably unrelated but the vehicle has always had something a little off about the engine when I bought it. It seemed a little louder than it should be and not as smooth I thought it should have been. So it might been an issue the whole time but becoming more noticeable. When it happens it usually happens for 30 seconds to a minute but has lasted longer. Once it wouldn't go away at all until I turned the car off and restarted it. I took it into a Ford dealership about 4 months ago and explained the issue not as well as I am now since more time has passed and thought maybe it was a trottle body valve issue I read about and they said no there is no issue with that. Reading forums it sounds like it might be related to the power steering control. It is causing the steering wheel to vibrate so maybe it is a power steering issue.
Alarm goes off for no reason when parked. Replaced batteries in key fobs with no change. Had issue investigated last year by Ford with no satisfaction. Was ok during winter but now it is hot outside. Heat related?
When driving for as little as ten minutes and other times longer, my truck will lose power while driving and I will start to feel the truck slow up. Then when trying to accelerate I can only get up to 20 mph. Also if I take my foot off the gas, without putting my foot on the brake, it'll come to a halt. It does go over 2,500 RPM on a good day. I cant take off fast even if I wanted to. The only code that has come up when dealing with my issue is the catalyic converter. I have replaced my O2 sensors and got a new converter on but still having the same problem. I even replaced the throttle to see if that would help and it has not. No one has been able to help me figure out the issue. I have taken it to reputable shops and mechanic and spent a ton of money trying to resolve my issues. I am fearful for my safety and my son's safety not knowing when it will lose power. I cant even hold a job at the time being because of this issue with my truck.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Stow, OH, USA