This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Was driving lost all power at first then was able to move at 2 mph when gas pedal was fully depressed, car started to shake. Heard loud pop then engine light came on dash. I was able to creep along to get out of moving traffic. Drove at the side of the road until I tried to get into a parking area which required me to make a left turn with traffic coming waited and waited then from a complete stop I make the turn into the lot which has a slight incline I was flooring the gas pedal still with out any power of more than 2 mph worried I would slip back into moving traffic. Parked called a tow truck. Turned off engine went into work. Came back out of work restarted car no check engine light and everything seem to work fine after that. Frightened I could have caused a serious accident for other and myself.
Was driving down the road when almost all of the power from the engine was lost. Engine was running at an idle. Would not respond to the throttle/gas pedal. I managed to get it to limp close to the dealership and get it towed the rest of the way. Happened just today and the dealership called and said that it is indeed the throttle body. They said it wasn't covered under my power train warranty and they are replacing it for a cost of roughly $450.
Driving to Kansas from Iowa on the interstate at 65 mph we suddenly stalled and lost our power steering. We were in heavy traffic which was quite scary. Pulled over to the side of the road stopped, put the car in park and started the car back up. Continued down the road only to have it happen again within 2 minutes. This happened multiple, at least 20 times until finally the car would not respond to the gas pedal. We would step on the gas but the engine would not respond. Then we turned the car off, waited a minute and tried it again until we could get back on the road. The last 13 miles of our trip took over a hour. Took our car to the dealership the next day and they replaced the throttle body which cost us $462.57. The mechanic told us this is a recurring problem and there will most likely be a recall. The error codes were P2111 and P2112 throttle body stuck open and closed. The next day we had a tire blowout on the interstate, which was also scary and in heavy traffic, because we spent so much time on the shoulder of the road which cost us another 180 dollars. I would like to see this recalled as a safety defect.
I own a 2010 Ford Escape. I was driving approximately 40 mph up a slight incline on a two lane road at 6:30 am in the dark when suddenly the vehicle jerked and would not accelerate. The wrench warning icon illuminated. While on the decline of the road I was able to coast into the first lane and into a break down lane and into a parking lot at a very slow rate of speed because once you applied the brakes and slowed down you could not regain any speed. I shut the engine off and was able to restart the vehicle without failure within a few mintues but the vehicle was not running right. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnosis where the technician stated that the throttle body would have to be replaced and the serpentine belt. The vehicle was repaired at the dealer. I cannot believe this is not a safety recall issue for Ford. I could have been hit multiple times on rte 1 trying to get my vehicle over two lanes of traffic to the side of the road.
- North Attleboro, MA, USA
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Vehicle's engine cuts out and I lose control. It has happened numerous times and one time the engine shut down three times during a short trip of ten miles. I have to turn the key off and start the engine again. Fortunately we don't travel very fast here.
While driving, the vehicle will stall, or drop to about 800-900 RPM with no response from the accelerator. The "wrench" will come on the instrument panel, and the vehicle will sometimes stall/kill altogether. We have had the codes pulled by a technician, and they say that the "throttle body is stuck open", "the throttle body is stuck closed", and there is one more but I cannot recall it off the top of my head. I have called Ford and they have said that they do not have a known issue, nor is this a familiar problem per the symptoms. I have likewise done an internet search and found several complaints, and an NHTSA investigation launched. Please advise that this is a major security concern for me - yesterday I was traveling in the left lane of a major freeway, at freeway speeds, when my vehicle seemingly stalled, dropped to 800 rpms, and I had to cross 3 lanes of rush hour traffic to pull over to the shoulder to shut my car off, put it in park, then start it back up and merge back into traffic, then have it repeat the problem less than a mile later. This is a huge problem, and if not fully addressed by Ford, my fear is it is going to cause accidents if it hasn't already. Thank you in advance for your follow-up and support.
This is the 2nd time the engine has stalled. First time was Oct. 31st, 2013. Driving in residential street and acceleration decreases, car shutters, and wrench light comes on along with other indicators. Coasts to side of road. After about 2-3 minutes, starts up and able to drive home (approximately 2 miles).
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while traveling various speeds, the vehicle suddenly stalled. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was found that the throttle body needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 49,620.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving 35 mph, the engine stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where they stated that the throttle body needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 97,000.
While driving, the vehicle was not able to accelerate and the wrench light came on. After pulling over and restarting the vehicle, the vehicle would resume functioning properly for a very short period of time and then the same thing would occur once again. Luckily, these events occurred on side roads and not the highway. This is very dangerous and should be recalled as a preventative measure. I would not drive the vehicle even to the dealer after the incidents. It is appalling that a prevalent incident is not being taken care of by the dealer. Safety of customers keeps customers alive to be consumers.
As I was pulling out of my neighborhood to drive to work, the car barely made it into the lane of traffic before it stalled completely. I made it to the curb and was quite shaken by this incident. No warning lights had come on. This was very startling to me. After a few minutes, the car started but it shook as I shifted it into drive. I decided to drive with great care to the dealership. On the way there, as I was on an interstate road, it stalled again and I was frightened. I made it to the right curb. It was storming and I called my insurance company for a tow truck to deliver the car to autonation Ford jacksonville at 10720 philips highway in jacksonville, fl (904-292-3325). The problem was diagnosed as a faulty throttle body. The repair costs totaled $498.86.
I was driving along at 35-40 mph, in traffic, and the gas pedal completely quit! and a little yellow wrench showed up on my dashboard. No other lights showed up. A complete failure of the gas pedal ensued. I had to coast through traffic to the side of the road. I found that if I turned off engine and restarted car, the "wrench" went away and I had power until the next time it happened. Mechanic said this was "limp mode." I took it into dealer but they could not get the "code" to determine the problem. Over two weeks this became more frequent and after the 4th time, the "check engine" light came on. They finally could get the code and it was a total throttle body failure! I stopped driving the car and am waiting for the part. At this time, I have an appointment for repair on Monday, Dec 30th. This repair will cost me approx $200-$400 dollars! I'm very upset, of course, but thankful that this didn't cause an accident. I am 64 years old and a single woman!
My wife is the main driver of this vehicle and has told me that there have been several occurrences over the past several years including the most recent on December 18. 2013. There is a sudden unexpected engine acceleration similar to what the Toyota vehicles have had. At this point it only occurs when slowing down. She applies the brakes but finds it difficult to slow with the engine attempting to accelerate. This last time I was riding with her and she slammed the gear shift into park just before coming to a complete stop. I didn't think that was too good for the transmission but it did correct the difficulty at the time. Have any other people experienced this problem ?
I had not had my vehicle for 3 months before experiencing a problem. On several occasions, I was driving and my SUV lost power. Each time, I had to pull off to the side, wait a few minutes, cut the csuv off and then back on until the car would start again. This made my travel very dangerous on the highway. Took my SUV to the dealership and at first they could not find what was wrong with it because the error had not registered. I had to wait until the check engine light came on to discover it was the throttle body. I had to pay over $300 to get it replaced. It took awhile for Ford ran out of the part and had to order it from their warehouse. Luckily, the repair shop was able to find a replacement within 2 days. After having the throttle body replaced, it takes a while for the SUV to shift into gear and often feels like it is stalling or dragging.
Vehicle failed to accelerate, lost power and it was necessary to coast to a stop on the side of the interstate. Vehicle continued to idle very roughly. When I depressed the gas pedal the motor would not rev up and remained at an idle. Necessary to tow vehicle to dealership and I was informed it would be necessary to replace the throttle body.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while traveling various speeds, the vehicle suddenly lost acceleration power. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was found that the throttle body had failed. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 59,000.
I was driving South on hwy 53, doing 55 mph when the car jumped out of gear. The engine was still running at idlespeed, but when I depressed the gas pedal nothing happened. Also the wrench light and the engine light where both on. I had to pull off the side of the road to avoid traffic and shut off the engine. I waited a minute and it started right back up with only the engine light on. This was the 5th time this happened in 2 days and was the same each time. I drove straight to the dealer where I had bought it and they did a check and retrieved P2111 in koec, then performed etb internal ids pinpoint test. Etb or throttle body failed test. They replaced the throttle body and motor asy, which is a known problem, and charged me $432.65. I believe Ford should have replaced this at no cost, since this is a known problem.
Was driving to work and car stalled. Hit the gas and nothing happened. Pulled over on shoulder, turned car off, and restarted. Immediately took car to dealership and fuel throttle body malfunction was diagnosed as the cause. Can I get a refund, as this seems to be a common problem?
Driving on four lane road when lost engine power to idle. Accelerator pedal non-responsive. Drove vehicle four miles back to home. Had to restart engine seven times to return home. Plugged in code reader, it stated the throttle body actuator sticking closed.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Brookpark, OH, USA