This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the air conditioner function failed to operate. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the desiccant filter fractured as a result, the air conditioner unit needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 32,000 and the current mileage was 32,500. Drrk
Since December, I have had several warning lights appear on my dash. It started with a low tire light. I visually checked the tires and saw nothing wrong with them so I kept an eye on them. After about a week, the light went off. No reason. It has happened three other times since then. Next came the fuel fill indicator light while on a trip over 300 miles from home. After a few days it went off. Came on one other time since then. Next was the check engine light. It came on when on another trip over 300 miles from home. Still on a few days later so I went to auto zone for the free test. They told me it could be either the gas cap, which it doesn't come with, or a leak. Vak leak system. P1111 seems by discussion boards that this is happening to a lot of people! www.cargurus.com/cars/discussion-T35733_ds539369.
When traveling at approx 50 mph, the engine made an automatic de acceleration, with the rpms going to 1000. Even when stepping on the gas pedal, the rpms did not change and the car came to a very slow speed just over idle speed. A wrench symbol appeared in the indicator lights. I placed in park and turned off the car. When restarting, the wrench symbol went away and the car drove normal for about 20 miles until the same thing happened. It appears that something in the computer brains is telling the engine to shut down. This happened a few more times over weekend and thankfully I was not in heavy traffic and was able to pull off to the shoulder. Today is May 4, 2014 and tomorrow I plan to take the car into Ford dealership on sterling Virginia. I have read recent complaints from Ford Escape owners that match exactly my problem. This is obviously unsafe and should be reported as a re call.
On Dec.31 at approximately 2 P.M. I was driving South on citrus ave. I was going 55 mph and my vehicle started losing speed. I moved to the side of the road. I turned off the ignition and when I restarted the car it ran as normal. Prior to that, on several occasions upon starting from a stop I had noticed faster acceleration than the amount of pressure I was applying to the gas pedal.
For the past 8 months my Escape has been stalling while I am driving or at a stop light, and when I am at a complete stop the car moves forward without stepping on the gas pedal!!!
- Castro Valley, CA, USA
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Right after the warranty went out the vehicle starting slamming from 1st into 2nd upon acceleration. The idle is very rough and quite loud, the engine makes a funny noise and I take extremely good care of my vehicle, getting all of the scheduled oil changes on time, replacing the air filter, etc. I also explained to them that the vehicle wasn't idling properly and that the engine used to be quiet. The windshield is extremely thin as well, a small pebble hit my windshield causing a 8 inch crack in a matter of minutes to where it was beyond getting it fixed. Then liftgate started giving me problems. When you press the button, it would make the sound, but sometimes open, then on May 17, 2013 it just quit working all together. On May 18, 2013, I took it to reynolds Ford for a scheduled oil change right before a trip to Mexico and upon telling them about it, they wanted $250 just to look at it before parts and labor. Now, the rear blinker doesn't work and you can't replace it due to the fact that you can't get the liftgate to open in order to remove the rear taillight assembly. So, when you are trying to make a left turn, vehicles behind you don't know you are turning and almost hit you (safety hazard). You also can't change a flat tire since you can get to the jack, which is in the rear compartment accessed through the liftgate. This is a serious problem as there is no manual release for the hatch to get it open period, once the latch doesn't work, it just doesn't work.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape XLT. The contact stated that the fuel light illuminated followed by the check engine warning light illuminating. Several days later, the vehicle failed to start. The dealer was notified and stated that the ignition switch would need to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 92,000. The vehicle was not repaired.
While driving, the vehicle will stall, or drop to about 800-900 RPM with no response from the accelerator. The "wrench" will come on the instrument panel, and the vehicle will sometimes stall/kill altogether. We have had the codes pulled by a technician, and they say that the "throttle body is stuck open", "the throttle body is stuck closed", and there is one more but I cannot recall it off the top of my head. I have called Ford and they have said that they do not have a known issue, nor is this a familiar problem per the symptoms. I have likewise done an internet search and found several complaints, and an NHTSA investigation launched. Please advise that this is a major security concern for me - yesterday I was traveling in the left lane of a major freeway, at freeway speeds, when my vehicle seemingly stalled, dropped to 800 rpms, and I had to cross 3 lanes of rush hour traffic to pull over to the shoulder to shut my car off, put it in park, then start it back up and merge back into traffic, then have it repeat the problem less than a mile later. This is a huge problem, and if not fully addressed by Ford, my fear is it is going to cause accidents if it hasn't already. Thank you in advance for your follow-up and support.
Was driving the vehicle on the interstate at about 60 mph and exited safely. Went through typical stop-and-go rush hour traffic for about 2 minutes until reaching work, in which the campus' speed is set to 25 mph throughout. Vehicle was traveling on work campus a little under 30 mph. Suddenly, the car stalled and the battery and oil warning lights had come on. Steering the vehicle to a safe parking place was difficult as the steering wheel had become tight. Once safely parked, the vehicle was turned off and after 5 seconds turned back on. The engine started up normally. Started driving the vehicle closer to where it was needed to be parked and the engine stalled again after 1000 feet and the steering went tight again. Turned off the vehicle again and after 5 seconds attempted to turn it back on. The engine had trouble starting but after an abnormal amount of time trying to turn over, the engine did. Was able to get the vehicle in the appropriate parking area. Vehicle has full tank of gasoline, 2000 miles over oil change recommendation by dealer, and factory battery. Vehicle has never been off-road but has been subject to easy snow accumulations since purchased from dealership.
While driving vehicle it will rev high and then stall while in traffic. Starts back up fine and then immediately stalls out again. This has happened three different times in the past 3 weeks.
While traveling at a relatively low traveling speed the vehicle seems to lose power and I can no longer accelerate. The tool light/check engine light will come on and I can coast to a stop. Once I stop the vehicle I turn it off. When I restart the vehicle it hesitates for approx 6 seconds and then turns over/restarts with no further problems. This has occurred four times since 11/6/13.
While driving down the road at about 45mph, the car stopped acknowledging that I was pushing the gas pedal. The car steadily slowed down, regardless of how much I pushed on the gas pedal. I ended up veering off into a parking lot and shutting the car off. I waited about 5 minutes and restarted it. It acted normal and I resumed my driving. It has happened about 5 times since then as well. Thankfully I haven't been on the highway and have had a place to pull off the road.
At night, while stopped on red traffic light waiting for change to green, the vehicle stalls an shut off. Did not start right over until a while. All dashboard panel lights were on. After 45 minutes tried to start it and it just move very, very slow and did not accelerate until it died again a 100 feet farther. We call road assistance to take us home in a towing truck. At the other day we call the towing truck again to take the SUV to the dealer since it was in warranty, when we start it before leaving it was working fine. The service tech at Ford tell us that probably it is the throttle body since other people has been having the same issue. They test it and they say that nothing is wrong... my warranty is about to expire and I think that they are playing us to take the unit home and when it happen again charge us for the cost of the part... $$$$ very expensive!!! this is a hazardous issue since it can happen while driving it can cause an accident or lost of life.
I was driving on the highway with my cruise control on when the cruise control shut off and a wrench light came on. The car stopped excelling and I had to cruise from the fast lane over 2 lanes to the side of the road. Once to the side I turned my car off waited a minute and then turned it back on. It turned on fine and ran fine from then on. I of course called Ford immediately but it was after hours and I left a message. After about an hour of driving it began to shake my foot when I pushed on the accelerator. Prior to this I did feel some slipping or surges every so often when I was accelerating as if it was having trouble shifting. When I brought it to Ford it was decided that my throttle body needed to be replaced. This was done fast and was covered under my extended warranty it was to be fixed for just my deductible of $100. All fine and dandy until I read the reviews that this has been going on for a while and multiple people have been affected.
While driving the engine stalled, but the lights and radio continued to work. We pulled over and put the car into park and attempted to restart the engine, and it started. However, just a couple of weeks later (this past weekend) it happened again. Both time we were traveling around 20-25 mph on city streets, no warning on indication prior to the stalling, but when it does stall the oil and engine light comes on.
On highway approx. 5 miles into journey when vehicle suddenly stops with a violent jerk throwing all belongings into the floor. All lights on dash come on vehicle remained on.. pressing gas pedal but does not engage. Slowly idle over to the side of the road. Turned vehicle off and restarted. Let run for 5 minutes and drove 300 ft to suitable pull off. Orange tool light stayed on in left lower corner of dash after a sluggish start. Drove approx. 20 miles to work at night without any further problems. In morning on the way home, vehicle started ok. Let run 5 minutes to warm up. Traveled approx. 3 miles going 35 mph when vehicle suddenly stops again, vehicle remained on. Coasted off road. Turned off vehicle and let set for 5 minutes again. Vehicle sluggishly started with orange engine light staying on the dash. Drove approx. 2 miles at 30 mph when vehicle does the same thing. Coasted into parking lot. Turned off and checked outside vehicle for any leakage problems. None noted. Restarted sluggishly. Traveled approx. 22 miles to home without any other problems. Husband took to dealership. They checked it and knew beforehand what the problem was because of a history of problems with this vehicle. Replaced throttle body assembly mileage at 51814 at a cost of $372.61 parts and labor.
I was driving into work on a 5 lane, heavy traffic road going about 45 mph when my car suddenly lost all of its engine power. The radio, lights were still working, the car simply wouldn't accelerate and actually slowed down considerably to a point where I was basically stopped on the road. I was able to coast into a turning lane so I was at least out of the main traffic lane. I turned the car off, started it again and as I prepared to make a left turn to get into a parking lot I lost all acceleration again and barely made it out of the intersection. I was able to put the car in neutral and coast it into a parking lot. My car required a tow to a local dealership and the issue was an electronic throttlebody failure. I'm extremely thankful that I didn't make it onto the freeway because if I stopped in that traffic I'm not sure I would have been able to avoid a major accident.
I filed a complaint yesterday and will continue to as long as this is happening, when I started my car this morning I drove 3 miles and it stopped moving, when I press the gas nothing happened and the wrench light came on, stopped the car turned it off started it drove the car about 20 feet and it did the same. Started the car again made it almost to work 3 miles away and it happened again. Stopped the car turned it off and started it again it continued all day long approximately 15 times all day.
While drivin about fifty the car just stopped going, the wrench light came on, I tried to push the fas pedal but nothing would happen it just slowed to a stop. So I put it in park and turned it off waited a few seconds and it started up and I drove off. A couple of days later it happened again at about 35 mph, so I did the same. Thought it was a fluke and/or the weather being the problem so I called Ford dealer and they said it sounds like the throttle body. Well for the past month it happens everyday while im driving 65 or 15 just all of the sudden it stops going and I have to pull off the side of the road put it in park and restart it sometimes it goes a few feet and I have to do it again sometimes it just starts and goes and now the check engine light comes on every third time in a row that it happens stays on for a couple days and then goes out for a couple days and so on, just do the recall we have all been reading about it doesn't take a genius like you people to figure this out........hear let me help you dooooo the recall.
I was traveling @ about 40 mph when it sounded & felt like the engine quit. There was a wide shoulder so, I pulled to the side of the road. The engine was still running but running poorly and wouldn't rev up over about 1000 RPM. The check engine light came on along with an orange "wrench" light. I switched the engine off, restarted it, and it ran fine for about 1/2 mile. Then, the same thing happened again, and again, and again. In the next 2 miles the same thing had happened 3 more times. After almost getting rear-ended by a Ram truck the last time it quit, I pulled into a parking lot and called my mechanic who came and towed it to his garage. Almost $400 later, my mechanic had replaced the electronic throttle assembly. He told me the Ford dealer parts person said he knew the part number by heart because they had replaced so many of these parts.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Teaneck , NJ, USA