This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
While driving in a variety of circumstances, (in town at stoplight and accelerating on highway) my 2010 Ford Escape will just shut off. No warning, just dies. I have been to 4 mechanics including one at a Ford dealer just today. No codes show, so every time I am basically told that they "can't duplicate issue" and I am sent on my way with no remedy for what is a very dangerous malfunction. I just called Ford and started a case number to see what they will do. Judging from other comments I have read on internet, I am not hopeful. I cannot understand why a recall wasn't issued and how I am just learning about the scope of the problem now-after spending $20K on this vehicle.
My vehicle is experiencing a throttle body failure. Per the Ford dealer it is only covered under the extended warranty if it does it during a test drive by a dealer. The vehicle is patently unsafe. It shuts down in all driving situations, highway speeds, surface road speeds, while moving. I have almost been in multiple accidents due to this issue. The local dealer - fowler Ford - is not following Ford's directive and is charging me for a diagnostic when Ford says not to. The 2010 Ford Escape is a death trap. I am now stuck with a vehicle that has had multiple recalls for less serious issues, but the one issue that can get someone killed does not qualify for a recall? this makes no sense, I am afraid to drive the vehicle, but have no choice. Why was Ford allowed to get away with an extended warranty on a part that fails randomly, while the vehicle is moving in traffic. It seems that Ford was given a pass on an issue that will get someone killed.
The throttle is messing up.. it keeps stopping and then I turn my car off and start it again then it works. It happened on a busy street and I had my 3 kids with
While I was driving I heard a click and lost my power steering. It came back and then off again. I had to pull over and turn off my ignition. I waited a few minutes and re-started it, it again kept going back and forth between power and manual steering while driving at 35 mph down back roads to my home.
- Loudon, NH, USA
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The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact purchased the vehicle from a private owner. The vehicle was included in NHTSA campaign numbers: 14V284000 (steering) and 16V777000 (fuel system, gasoline), but had not been repaired prior to being purchased by the contact. Shortly after she purchased the vehicle, there was a sudden loss of power and the check engine and other unknown warning indicators flickered. Also, all of the instrument panel gauges failed to function. The vehicle was unable to be safely driven. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 211,000.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the rear passenger window dropped down without the window button being pressed. The contact stated that the motor to move the window back up stopped working. The contact stated that the rear driver side window previously experienced the same failure. The manufacturer was contacted and stated that there were no recalls. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was 91,000. * updated 11/9/18
My vehicle has stalled twice while I am driving it. The first time was on 95, a 4-lane highway. It stalls and the battery light comes on, I have no power to get out of traffic. I had to put it in park and re-start the engine. I was lucky to not be in high speed traffic where I could have been hit. The vehicle was in motion when it stalled.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that there was an electrical issue with the vehicle because it stalled intermittently. There were no warning indicators illuminated before or after the failure. The vehicle was taken to silver creek auto repair (1881 greenwood rd, prescott, mi 48756) where it was diagnosed, but the contact was not provided with the details. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 160,000. The VIN was not provided.
PCM has water damage due to placement under the hood. When the hood is opened water runs down directly onto the unit and into the wiring. The repeated water exposure has caused the unit to fault. This water intrusion causes the vehicle to fail to start intermittently. When turning the ignition, the vehicle will fail to engage the starter; however, headlights, radio are functional. Intermittently while operating the vehicle, all of the lights on the instrument cluster illuminate and the tachometer and speedometer will stop reading speed and rmps, resetting to zero. When this occurs it not impair operation of the vehicle. Additionally, the steering torque sensor is failing. Intermittently, the vehicle will display "power steering assist failure" on the instrument cluster. When this occurs, turning the car on and off repeatedly will temporarily resolve the issue.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the hazard lights and brake lights did not operate on the vehicle. There were no warning indicators illuminated before or after the failure. The vehicle was taken to ron tirapelli Ford (4355 w jefferson St, shorewood, il), but the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The VIN was unknown. The approximate failure mileage was 20,000.
The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the ignition switch failed and the vehicle could not be started. The contact replaced the key; however, the failure was not corrected. The vehicle was taken to crown Ford (420 merrick road, lynbrook, New York 11563, phone (516) 599-0600) where it was diagnosed that the ignition switch cylinder needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 90,000.
Water is leaking down the inside of my back liftgate due to a poor seal around the back window. The water is slowly leaking down the liftgate glass and into the body, effecting the electrical system and the motor that opens the trunk. In short, the trunk button attempts to open but the electrical system fails to send a proper signal to the motor to open the door. The vehicle was stationary when I first discovered the issue. I have done extensive research and this seems to be happening to a lot of Ford Escapes from 2008-2012. Ford technicians have even made youtube videos explaining how and why this has happened to a lot of Escape models. It all starts with a poor seal surrounding the back window, leading to more problems down the road due to the issue.
When you turn on the key to start the car, the light come on, it dings, all that happens, but nothing happens to make it crank/start, . its like there is no battery but everything else is lighting up and dinging, I have to repeat this 3 or 4 times for it to finally start.
The electric assist steering seized up whilst car was in motion and almost caused a wreck. The car has intermittent electrical malfunctions and warning lights flashing and it is getting worse. This happened all at once with very little warning and could have caused a vehicle crash with my 74 year old sickly mother at the wheel. An asce certified master mechanic I trust inspected it after the fact and advised I take the car off the road and search for a factory recall because he had never seen anything like this happen with normal wear. Be warned Ford Escape owners. This could have been fatal at high speeds during a turning maneuver. My mother was driving locally and at speeds under 50 mph
The anti-theft signal keeps coming on in my car. When I am moving and not moving all the warning in my car comes on. The speedometer goes to zero, the gas gage goes to empty, etc with all the other warning lights. I was driving on the highway and all of sudden every single warning light came on. I immediately got off the next exit and parked at a gas station. I turned the car off, but it would not start for about 10 minutes. I finally got it to start and drove quickly to work. I took the car that afternoon to Ford service. They said it was my ignition, so they changed the part and charged me over $320. When I drive my car the next morning, it happened again. I took my car to Ford again that morning. Now they tell me the board that had the electrical parts is corroded, so they changed that and charged over $720. The next day after I took the car home it happened for a quick moment, but then it stopped. Today 10/18/17 which is 2 days after I picked my car up from Ford service I let my car warm up in the morning for about 10 mins, but when I got in the car all the warning lights came on again. This time the car would not start at all and the anti-theft warning light kept blinking each time. So I had to call a tow truck. So now I have no car, I'm out over $1,000 and I have to get a car rental. And Ford service continues to charge each time including a diagnostic test for over $100. I didn't know I had an anti-theft system and I don't need one. There is nothing wrong with the car, but Ford service is not able to fix this. I don't feel safe driving the car and I don't know what I am going to do now. In my opinion this is a Ford manufacturing problem and I should not be charged to fix this problem. I don't want an anti-theft system. I want my money back. I have pictures for two of the times this happened. Although it happened more than two times.
Bought 2010 Ford Escape 3 months ago noticed cutting off pep boys says no worry. Now check engine light tool light cuts off when driving at lights idling. Scared Ford says it will cist me 400 500 to fix. Say customer satisfaction program 13no3. Please help. I have handicapped daughter to take to drs and I work. Please.
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- Webster, MA, USA