CarComplaints.com Notes: Say what you will about the styling of the Ford Edge, but the bottom line is owners seem to love this vehicle. That is, of course, except in the case of it's dangerous, worrisome and unexplained issues with random engine stalling.
Our data suggests an early defect trend, as owners of the 2007-2008 models have started posting their accounts of what happens when you're driving down the road and the engine just stops. Some at high speed, some at low speed but always a random shutdown of the engine, electrical and power steering.
Time will tell if this becomes a widespread issue, but there's no drying the seriousness of the problem. With that in mind, we're flagging the Edge with our "Beware of the Clunker" rating until the situation improves.
8.6
pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
$2,270
Average Mileage:
101,400 miles
Total Complaints:
7 complaints
Most Common Solutions:
replace PCM, coil packs and spark plugs (7 reports)
Ford Edge Forum - Ignition Coil Malfunction - A widespread problem (ignition coils + PCM + spark plugs) no doubt, but here is the best compilation of experiences and remedies, filled with incredibly helpful YouTube videos, links for parts, etc.
Same, very well known problem with this model year... Bad ignition coil. Thanks to the bad design. Which was fixed on the next model, but owners of the first are still left high & dry.
Bought car used with 125k in decent shape, but obviously well out of warranty. When I had my original issue with bad AC blower motor I came across this mighty widespread known problem/service bulletin with the bad ignition coils melting/frying and destroying PCM. Was thankful mine did not seem to have any motor problems, and was hopeful that the fact it was fine at 125k meant if it was going to be affected, it would have been by now.
Nooope.
For about a week I was intermittently getting a rough idle, or a dull vibrate/wobble from the motor/front end, to where I kept checking if the right side of the car was driving on rough/graded asphalt. No correlation with certain gear, speed, car being hot/cold, just did it briefly sometimes. Thought maybe cracked motor mount, some bearing somewhere, something to do with chassis not engine (and not suspension, since it would do it at idle). Finally yesterday check engine light came on and those suspicions were immediately nullified. Bad ignition coil 1. My mechanic (not a Ford guy) said all we needed to do was replace coil (he noted that 2 of the easy to access coils had already been replaced), but labor would be $600. I brought him TSB & explained the problem with PCM for this model year.
It's going to cost me thousands, just like it's cost WAY TOO MANY 2007 FORD EDGE OWNERS. This needs to be a recall!!!
Update from Nov 3, 2017: Apologies for being an alarmist. Thanks to my handy fiancee, this issue could have been fixed with one $60 coil and technically just one $5 spark plug. It's REALLY not that hard to remove the intake manifold/plenum & access coils 1-3 on the "back" side of the motor (IOW, the 3 closest to the dash, vs the 3 that are staring right in your face when you pop the hood).
Reference this thread that has been updated with new information over the years: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7326-ignition-coil-malfunction/
Upon looking under the hood, we quickly discovered 2 of the 3 ignition coils in the front (#4-6) AND my PCM had been replaced (good sign) before I got the car. In my research, I learned that you really should replace all coils & spark plugs vs just any that are bad, and since we couldn't see coils #1-3 without removing intake manifold, I ordered 3 new better-than-OEM Denso coils and all new OEM Motorcraft spark plugs. Also per multiple recommendations I ordered a new heated PCV valve & hose, since that typically needs to be replaced with normal maintenance & might as well when you already have intake manifold off.
All 3 inner coils turned out to not be original, and the "bad" coil didn't even look bad. PCV valve & hose even looked pretty new. Still, we replaced all 3 coils & spark plugs along with PCV.
All in all I probably spent $400 in parts & tools (recommendation: make sure your socket extensions aren't the cheapy Home Depot ones because they WILL break). I replaced more than I need to but hopefully it helps me avoid having any additional problems with coils for a while.
Update from Jan 15, 2018: What a mess.
When we went to put everything back together as described in my original post & update #1, we tightened the screws that bolt in the coil packs to the block. Bolt for coil pack #5 snapped just outside the top of the housing. 8mm bolts are too narrow to use any of the screw extractor kits for (tried that), and it wasn't sticking out enough to use pliers. Car had to be gently driven to my mechanic to drill it out. Took him over an hour.
Picked up car from mechanic around 1 or 2pm and drove it two blocks to my office. It was a hot day, and I left work a little early to catch a Dodgers playoff game. Well, I tried to leave a little early. Car was completely dead. No reaction whatsoever when I tried to turn the key. Luckily I had 20 foot long jumper cables with me (WTF, I know) and it started instantly when hooked up to another car. Drove it 30 min, started fine after dark & in morning, but not when trying to leave work the next day. Not sure how, but something destroyed my battery. Add $100 to that $400 total mentioned above.
And then also simultaneously, transmission started slipping. Around 3rd or 4th gear, I don't know for sure. But there was no happy future for this car and my checkbook.
Traded the damn thing in within a week and barely got $1500 from a dealer, and got a different SUV (2014, lease trade in, 21k mi) and opted for the extended warranty. No more high mileage domestic cars for this chick. Best of luck to anyone who dares.
"Has the fix or solution changed?" Yes. Abandon ship.
Was heading to thanksgiving dinner when my 2007 Ford Edge with approximately 104000 miles started losing power and running rough. The check engine light came on and I turned around and went home. I immediately got on the internet to see what issues were common with this vehicle and found the TSB 13-4-17. I then scheduled an appointment with the local Ford dealer to have a diagnostic ran. They confirmed that the Technical Service Bulletin is accurate and that the PCM has electrical shorts which caused ALL the coil packs to need replacing along with the PCM, spark plugs and intake gaskets. FORD HAS NOT issued a recall so there is no participation in cost sharing. You would think that since there is a known problem and that they have issued a TSB that they would at least participate in some of the cost! NOT FORD! THIS WILL BE THE LAST ONE OWNED!! BEWARE!!
This seems to be an on going problem with this vehicle I have read at least 10 complaints with the same problem coil packs failing & PCM fail. This is the 2nd time I have had coil fails but the first for PCM ,this repair is going to cost me $2500 that is just pocket change to ford motor company for what these vehicles sell for 25 to 35 thousand. Ford really needs to step up to the plate and take responsibility for this issue, it really is costing consumers that have purchased this vehicle (Ford Edge) a lot of money, so Ford Motor Company get off your cheap A!!ES and help out. I see a lot of these cars on the road.
My car broke down without any warning. I could not accelerate onto the highway and the car started shaking uncontrollably without any warning. Got the car towed to my mechanic to find out that my car had no pressure out of the v6 cylinder. It was brought to a local Ford dealership. The test on the engine came back that the coils need to be replaced at $1995.00 not including the labor and "there is no way for us to tell if the engine will be good" I owed $8800 on my loan. It was awful. The answer was that my car had a lot of miles. Engines should not die at 94000 miles. This was so disheartening and disgusting all at once. I received $750 on a trade in. I had no choice but to pay 3k and out my tail for a new lease. If anyone can guide me on how to pursue this any way would be very much appreciated!
I feel if the warranty will cover part of the repair and that part causes other damages, they should repair it all.
This was a 32000.00 car in 2007 and I was still paying on it when It died.. The $1450.00 damage in coils and spark plugs made me feel I will NEVER ever have another Ford product. If Ford reads this You have lost another customer after only 30000 miles..
- forbus,
Birmingham, AL, US
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Driving home from work and all of a sudden car started violently shaking, spitting and sputtering. I was going up a steep hill with loaded semis behind me at a rate of 60mph. Lost power, engine light started flashing and wasn't sure if I was going to make it up and over the hill. Pulled over and shut car off. Turned back on and seemed better, but a few short miles up the road, same scenario. Limped it home and when I pulled into my garage, smelled burning rubber.
Called my local shop and they informed me it was bad ignition coils and PCM. They could not fix and that I should phone my local Ford garage. GGRR... a friend used to work for Ford and I had him take a look at. We pulled the coils packs out and one was melted, burnt and cracked. Had a hell of a time getting it out of the socket. This is what I was smelling. Changed plugs and coil packs and still having issues.
Seriously.. I pay $30,000 for a vehicle and the damn computer goes bad in it in less then 7 years? And now Ford isn't recalling this issue despite several similar incidences and I'm supposed to fork over an additional $2,500 for parts and labor? I love my Edge, and I've owned Ford for several years, but if this is how they are going to treat their customers, I'll go back to Chevrolet like my father warned me to do.
Problem would have been covered under "new car" warranty but mileage was out by 5K miles, 80000 or 8 years vs 85000 actual mileage. Ford would not cover under the warranty. They did admit that this problem has been repaired a number of times within the warranty period and has been reported to the Tranportation Dept Ombudsman (?) and may in the future be a "Recall" item. But until then they will not repair under the new car warranty. Period!
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
Same, very well known problem with this model year... Bad ignition coil. Thanks to the bad design. Which was fixed on the next model, but owners of the first are still left high & dry.
Bought car used with 125k in decent shape, but obviously well out of warranty. When I had my original issue with bad AC blower motor I came across this mighty widespread known problem/service bulletin with the bad ignition coils melting/frying and destroying PCM. Was thankful mine did not seem to have any motor problems, and was hopeful that the fact it was fine at 125k meant if it was going to be affected, it would have been by now.
Nooope.
For about a week I was intermittently getting a rough idle, or a dull vibrate/wobble from the motor/front end, to where I kept checking if the right side of the car was driving on rough/graded asphalt. No correlation with certain gear, speed, car being hot/cold, just did it briefly sometimes. Thought maybe cracked motor mount, some bearing somewhere, something to do with chassis not engine (and not suspension, since it would do it at idle). Finally yesterday check engine light came on and those suspicions were immediately nullified. Bad ignition coil 1. My mechanic (not a Ford guy) said all we needed to do was replace coil (he noted that 2 of the easy to access coils had already been replaced), but labor would be $600. I brought him TSB & explained the problem with PCM for this model year.
It's going to cost me thousands, just like it's cost WAY TOO MANY 2007 FORD EDGE OWNERS. This needs to be a recall!!!
Update from Nov 3, 2017: Apologies for being an alarmist. Thanks to my handy fiancee, this issue could have been fixed with one $60 coil and technically just one $5 spark plug. It's REALLY not that hard to remove the intake manifold/plenum & access coils 1-3 on the "back" side of the motor (IOW, the 3 closest to the dash, vs the 3 that are staring right in your face when you pop the hood).
Reference this thread that has been updated with new information over the years: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7326-ignition-coil-malfunction/
Upon looking under the hood, we quickly discovered 2 of the 3 ignition coils in the front (#4-6) AND my PCM had been replaced (good sign) before I got the car. In my research, I learned that you really should replace all coils & spark plugs vs just any that are bad, and since we couldn't see coils #1-3 without removing intake manifold, I ordered 3 new better-than-OEM Denso coils and all new OEM Motorcraft spark plugs. Also per multiple recommendations I ordered a new heated PCV valve & hose, since that typically needs to be replaced with normal maintenance & might as well when you already have intake manifold off.
All 3 inner coils turned out to not be original, and the "bad" coil didn't even look bad. PCV valve & hose even looked pretty new. Still, we replaced all 3 coils & spark plugs along with PCV.
All in all I probably spent $400 in parts & tools (recommendation: make sure your socket extensions aren't the cheapy Home Depot ones because they WILL break). I replaced more than I need to but hopefully it helps me avoid having any additional problems with coils for a while.
Update from Jan 15, 2018: What a mess.
When we went to put everything back together as described in my original post & update #1, we tightened the screws that bolt in the coil packs to the block. Bolt for coil pack #5 snapped just outside the top of the housing. 8mm bolts are too narrow to use any of the screw extractor kits for (tried that), and it wasn't sticking out enough to use pliers. Car had to be gently driven to my mechanic to drill it out. Took him over an hour.
Picked up car from mechanic around 1 or 2pm and drove it two blocks to my office. It was a hot day, and I left work a little early to catch a Dodgers playoff game. Well, I tried to leave a little early. Car was completely dead. No reaction whatsoever when I tried to turn the key. Luckily I had 20 foot long jumper cables with me (WTF, I know) and it started instantly when hooked up to another car. Drove it 30 min, started fine after dark & in morning, but not when trying to leave work the next day. Not sure how, but something destroyed my battery. Add $100 to that $400 total mentioned above.
And then also simultaneously, transmission started slipping. Around 3rd or 4th gear, I don't know for sure. But there was no happy future for this car and my checkbook.
Traded the damn thing in within a week and barely got $1500 from a dealer, and got a different SUV (2014, lease trade in, 21k mi) and opted for the extended warranty. No more high mileage domestic cars for this chick. Best of luck to anyone who dares.
"Has the fix or solution changed?" Yes. Abandon ship.
- Shannon D., Thousand Oaks, US