This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
2014 Ford C-max energi. Consumer writes in regards to defective charging cord for vehicle. The consumer stated the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time completing the recall repair.
The contact owns a 2014 Ford C-max energi. The contact stated that the electrical system warning indicator illuminated. The vehicle was serviced per NHTSA campaign number: 18V592000 (equipment). The vehicle was serviced at ed butts Ford (1515 N hacienda blvd, la puente, ca 91744, (800) 960-3673), but the remedy failed to repair the vehicle. The contact mentioned that the electrical system warning indicator illuminated after the recall repair. The vehicle was supposed to get an "as" cord; however, the mechanic installed an "ah" cord instead. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 23,000.
I still have not received a notice from Ford that the recall 18V-592 parts are in stock to replace the recharger cord. I was notified originally on Sept 2018 but now 6 months later no notification of parts available. The car cannot be charged using 110V power as Ford recall notice said to quit using the defective charge cord.
The contact owns a 2014 Ford C-max energi. The contact stated that the recall notice for NHTSA campaign number: 18V592000(electrical system) was received in September of 2018. After contacting the dealer (tuttle click Ford, 9501 research dr, irvin, ca), the contact was informed that the parts needed to repair the defect were not available. The manufacturer was notified. The contact had not experienced a failure. VIN tool confirms parts not available.
I bought this vehicle used in March of 2018. The 12 volt battery has completely drained numerous times the first month I owned it. About 10 - 12 times. Finally in April of 2018 I replaced the 12 volt batter to the tune of $155. I thought this would take care of the problem. It did for a few weeks. Then I would get up to leave for work and my battery would be dead again. I have been averaging 3-4 jumps a week to get car running. The battery was replaced yet again in July 2018. This week I have had to jump my car a total of 6 times in 5 days. I have been late to work twice. And two of the mornings the car did start it had been on the battery charger overnight. I was able to get to work these two mornings, but 4 hours later when I went out to go to lunch the battery was dead again.I am typing this on my lunch hour as I sit at my desk. Car is dead again and I can't leave. I read all the issues other owners are having that are just like mine and do not know why Ford has refused to issue a recall. I have to carry around jumper cables and a battery charger in my car and hope someone comes along to assist me. This car is unreliable. Then November 17 when we were in branson, mo for thanksgiving the rear tailgate latch failed. It has not worked since. I understand another of Ford's issues. We have adjusted the rear bumper pads per Ford's recommendation for that issue.it did not help. Now I have to take it in the Ford dealer on 12/15 and have that replaced to the tune of $358. How can they get away with issues with no accountability?
- Galveston, TX, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
I now find that the charger for the car battery was recalled about 6 weeks ago and there is no replacement available as yet. The charger is supposed to add 18 miles to the battery but last time I plugged it in while parked in front of my house, overnight (about 10 hours) it took 10 mgw, and charged for one mile. And the charger was hot. It was plugged directly into a wall socket outside my house.
Received a "stop safely now" dash indicator light while driving on a city street approaching an intersection. Car began losing power and I applied the brake to stop prior to intersection. Placed the car in park and attempted to turn vehicle off, but car did not respond or power down. Accessory items were still functioning in car, but unable to get the car to switch into gear and drive. Eventually, placed the car in neutral and pushed vehicle into a parking lot. After 10 minutes I was able to turn the car off and on, but still unable to get the vehicle to go into motion. Having vehicle towed to Ford dealership.
120 volt convenience charging cord heats up >150 degrees F while charging, as checked by a digital thermometer, resulting in browning of the electrical outlet (picture enclosed). Outlet is a standard 120volt 15amp gfci outlet with nothing else connected. Tested on a different outlet with similar results picture enclosed).
We have noticed a temperature problem when charging with our Ford supplied 120 volt evse FM58-10B706ae, manufacture date: 14122, for our 2014 Ford C-max-energi, with 29,100 miles. On August 24, 2016, I did some initial temperature testing on with an infrared thermometer. The highest recorded temperature on the outside of the plug indicated 192.2 degrees. While attempting to record amperage at the outlet the 15 amp rated tester began to melt. We had the car and evse in with our local Ford dealer on August 25, 2016 and September 13, 2016 to be checked. After being checked and having a repair made to the vehicle we were told that the evse was warm but nothing wrong with it because it charged the vehicle. We were also told that if we were concerned then we shouldn't leave it charging unattended. We stopped using the Ford supplied evse. On February 7, 2017, I took the time to record the information below. The highest temperature areas are on the plug and wire cable just below the plug. Timedurationplug temperatureline (hot) blade temperaturevoltage at outletamperage at outletamperage at carhertz 6:45 PM00:005250120.80060 6:46 PM00:01547412112.11260 7:05 PM00:2093157120.71211.960 7:15 PM00:30119192120.611.911.860 8:00 PM01:15118178120.81211.860 8:30 PM01:45110175121.61211.960 9:00 PM02:15115206120.41211.960 9:40 PM02:55114176121.61211.960 testing conducted on a dedicated 20 amp circuit with a single 20 amp duplex outlet connect at circuit panel via 24" 12 gauge copper wire. Amperage measured using a digital clamp ammeter. Voltage measured using a digital voltage meter with direct contact probes. Hertz measured using a digital hertz meter with direct contact probes. Temperature measured using a digital thermometer with direct contact probe. Ambient temperature was 50 degrees.
The contact owns a 2014 Ford C-max energi. The contact stated that the vehicle was plugged in and recharging in the garage. Two hours later, an extensive fire erupted from the charge cord. The fire department was able to extinguish the flames. The dealer tested the vehicle and stated that the charge cord overheated. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and sent a technician, but was not able to determine the specific cause of the failure. The vehicle was inspected by a dealer and the insurance adjuster. The cosmetic damages were repaired, but the contact was unable to determine if the failure would recur. The VIN and failure mileage were not available.
The charge housing cap fell off. Dealer says it affects the charging capacity $500 cheap crap!!!! it did not even last 2-years!!!! how can U abuse it when all U do is push a button!! never more... a Ford!!!
Unable to turn off car with keyless ignition. Computer seemed to think car was off and wouldn't let me turn it on because it thought it was plugged in (which it was not) and the engine was running and I couldn't turn it off.
While driving on the highway (about 1/2 way through a 6-hour highway trip), the "stop safely" warning light and accompanying beeps started and the engine cut out completely. I had to later look up in the manual what the orange triangle warning symbol meant. We pulled over to the side of the road, put it in park, and it restarted immediately and was fine for the rest of the journey. I ran the cars "vehicle health report", which did not find any problems. I took it to the dealer and they were unable to duplicate the issue and found nothing wrong with it. They indicated they consulted with Ford, who was unable to provide suggestions. While this is a different model, I did notice online that the Focus electric had a recall for this same issue. I suggested to the dealer they check if this could be the same problem showing up in a different model (I have no idea if they share the parts that caused the Focus electric problem), but they reacted like that suggestion made no sense, so I let it drop. I have had the car 7 months (bought new) and this is the only time that the problem has occurred, but if it had happened 20 minutes earlier when we were in heavy traffic in the middle lane it could have been incredibly dangerous. After having the car 4 days, the dealer did offer to keep the car longer and drive it to see if it happened again, but I opted to pick up the car.
The car has 2-4 connections for a cell phone and the usb connections are located in the center consul and when it is used it connects to the display monitor on the dash. But when it is used for a cell phone the cell phone will not charged at any rate. The cell phone goes completely dead and it is no longer a part of the car/phone system. I tried using different types of charging cords and I have an iphone 5S. I even turn-off the phone to get it to charge but nothing works. I have to connect the phone to the back seat plug which is very inconvenient. I took the car to get check and the technician initially said the usc was ok, but when I had him use my cell with no aps open he did verified that the phone did not charge and the power depleted. He said he would get back to me after he contacts someone for further guidance.
After rain, the sensor warning on my car went off almost continuously. There were no warning signs on the dashboard, and I ran a vehicle diagnostic test that claimed everything to be fine. I tried using my car hours later (by this time my car was dry and had been parked in an indoor garage). When putting the car into reverse or drive the loud warning sound again went off. Sometimes it is a continuous sound, other times it starts when I come to a stop at a red light or stop sign (even when there are no cars or anything nearby my car to would set the sensors off). The longest time the warning sound went off continuously was for a 30 minute. However, the sensor warning went off (on and off) throughout a 2 hour drive. There are a variety of speeds at which this has happened- when the car is not moving (putting it in reverse or drive), when slowing down to a stop from about 35mph, driving on the highway with no car nearby at 45-55mph. I have had my car for a month now, with 350 miles on it now. It is currently in the shop, but they could not get the car to reproduce the sensor warning sound or figure out which sensor or sensors are bad.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Bothell, WA, USA