I purchased a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab in Feb of 2006. at 50,000 miles the ball joints failed. I operate this vehicle mainly on surface streets at lower speeds during the course of doing business (unloaded). I thought this failure was caused by the suspension "bottoming out". At that time there was also a front shock leaking so I split the cost with dodge and had the entire front end refurbished. Since then I have been very careful to avoid any sudden curb, bump, or any other sharp/sudden suspension related issues while operating this vehicle. This vehicle has been in several alignment shops in my attempts to find out why it has never run straight. On 5/20/14 (111,000 miles) my current mechanic (not Dodge) discovered the ball joints are again failing at twice the recommended acceptable allowance! I suppose this is logical, so I am currently looking for the latest/greatest off road combination of suspension components to fix this once and for all (I am open to suggestion). I have also replaced every computer in this vehicle ( 4 that I know of) due to failure. Numerous other interior parts have also failed along the way due to poor factory workmanship and/or poor mechanical design. I traded a beast of a 2000 Ford F350 for this Dodge "car truck" because the Dodge weighs 1,000 less than the Ford (with over 100 F/P more torque). However, there seems to be a serious downside for these gains. The Dodge is everything I was told it would be; the Cummins Diesel and power train components are the best combination of usable power that will not hurt itself and I have begrudgingly held onto this vehicle because of the engine. However the rest of the truck is a piece of underbuilt crap! (I'll bet that 2000 Ford F-350 with a front leaf and straight axle is still going).
Update from Jan 25, 2017: 3rd set of ball joints, 1 tie rod, (has never run straight)
complete A/C replacement (everything) still does not cool that well.
all computers replaced (failed)
main seal (crankshaft) leaked again after 6 mo
pkg brake release broke
center console latch broke
seat belts broke
tail lights assemblies failed
trans had catastrophic failure @ 132K (no heavy hauling)
said 'screw it' and gave truck to my son (a total piece of crap for 10 years)
mad only because I WAS STUPID ENOUGH TO KEEP IT THAT LONG.
my last 3 trucks have been (in order since 1998) chevy 2500 454- threw a rod @ 20k, 2000 f-350 V-10 shot a spark plug out of the cyl head @ 35K, 2006 dodge 132K, I do not need to tow any more so I will buy a Toyota or Nissan next (tried for 40 years to keep buying American)
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
I purchased a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab in Feb of 2006. at 50,000 miles the ball joints failed. I operate this vehicle mainly on surface streets at lower speeds during the course of doing business (unloaded). I thought this failure was caused by the suspension "bottoming out". At that time there was also a front shock leaking so I split the cost with dodge and had the entire front end refurbished. Since then I have been very careful to avoid any sudden curb, bump, or any other sharp/sudden suspension related issues while operating this vehicle. This vehicle has been in several alignment shops in my attempts to find out why it has never run straight. On 5/20/14 (111,000 miles) my current mechanic (not Dodge) discovered the ball joints are again failing at twice the recommended acceptable allowance! I suppose this is logical, so I am currently looking for the latest/greatest off road combination of suspension components to fix this once and for all (I am open to suggestion). I have also replaced every computer in this vehicle ( 4 that I know of) due to failure. Numerous other interior parts have also failed along the way due to poor factory workmanship and/or poor mechanical design. I traded a beast of a 2000 Ford F350 for this Dodge "car truck" because the Dodge weighs 1,000 less than the Ford (with over 100 F/P more torque). However, there seems to be a serious downside for these gains. The Dodge is everything I was told it would be; the Cummins Diesel and power train components are the best combination of usable power that will not hurt itself and I have begrudgingly held onto this vehicle because of the engine. However the rest of the truck is a piece of underbuilt crap! (I'll bet that 2000 Ford F-350 with a front leaf and straight axle is still going).
Update from Jan 25, 2017: 3rd set of ball joints, 1 tie rod, (has never run straight) complete A/C replacement (everything) still does not cool that well. all computers replaced (failed) main seal (crankshaft) leaked again after 6 mo pkg brake release broke center console latch broke seat belts broke tail lights assemblies failed trans had catastrophic failure @ 132K (no heavy hauling) said 'screw it' and gave truck to my son (a total piece of crap for 10 years) mad only because I WAS STUPID ENOUGH TO KEEP IT THAT LONG. my last 3 trucks have been (in order since 1998) chevy 2500 454- threw a rod @ 20k, 2000 f-350 V-10 shot a spark plug out of the cyl head @ 35K, 2006 dodge 132K, I do not need to tow any more so I will buy a Toyota or Nissan next (tried for 40 years to keep buying American)
- William S., Stockton, CA, Pacific Islands (US)