For those bashing all years of the Chrysler/Jeep/Ram 4.7 engine, they have built 150,000 plus of these power-plants and the people that experience the 'problems' are the ones who FAIL to change their oi and filter every 3,000 miles.
No magic oil- synthetics, or conventional will keep it's additive package of chemicals past 4,000 miles. And no magic filter will continue filtering by holding more than about 28 grams of debris that gets collected in the filter media pleats. But snake oil guys love to charge you $9 bucks a quart for RoyalAmsoilMobil1 type stuff, and their [special] filters.
When plugged [4000miles] ALL- oil filters will go into bypass sending all the contaminants back into your lubrication system. If you drive on dusty roads do you think special filters are up to the task? The cubic foot per minute requirement of the engine for air is the same on dirt or pavement! change the filter and the Oil.
Another scenario: You only drive 25 miles to work round trip but idle in stop and go traffic for 25 minutes each way on a 98 degree day-That's like 100 miles a day heat viscosity breakdown to your oil, in terms of engine hours of operation!
The cream coloring you see on your oil filler cap is condensation[usually appearing most frequent in colder months]It stems from the engine only being operated for a few minutes[quick commute] and not getting to full operating temperature for 1/2 hour to evaporate the collected moisture which is absorbed through the intake tract and pcv system.
All oils turn brownish black from carbon buildup. Carbon is abrasive, and wears down metal. And acidic buildup from loss of oil additive package through normal use [3000 miles] pits metal parts inside your engine-Change your oil and filter.
I had multiple oil problems with this truck. Started as oil dripping which was 2-3 trips to have fixed, but never was. Then still leaking, had entire oil system replaced, new oils, etc, still leaking months after repairs. Went back to same dealer, they said I needed all fluids flushed, which I did, drive it for 2 months when the oil pressure dropped, engine seized up and died. There was condensation in the oil cap. I still owed 15K on this truck, can't afford a new engine, so it was reposed and sold for 2K. Now I am stuck paying the balance. I have all of my documentation on the multiple garage visits for these repairs. It was too old to lemon law it also, so is there any way to get an justice on this? I'm paying for a vehicle I don't even have!.
Just another problem with this piece of crap. After the ERG valve freezes and oil blows all over the place I can't even get the fill cap off to put in new oil without taking a pipe wrench to it. Full of ice so can't even put oil in. Garbage vehicle.
There is a TSB out for my oil cap having condensation on it, But I heard that it doesn't work. I think that is Chrysler's way to either have you get a new motor or buy a new vehicle. Water kills a motor and Chrysler designs one that when its cold, water and foam form in the oil fill tube. I don't know about you, but I feel like I got the horns right up the bum. Thanks dodge for the shaft on quality and pride in you work.
- Mark S.,
Mancos, CO, US
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
For those bashing all years of the Chrysler/Jeep/Ram 4.7 engine, they have built 150,000 plus of these power-plants and the people that experience the 'problems' are the ones who FAIL to change their oi and filter every 3,000 miles.
No magic oil- synthetics, or conventional will keep it's additive package of chemicals past 4,000 miles. And no magic filter will continue filtering by holding more than about 28 grams of debris that gets collected in the filter media pleats. But snake oil guys love to charge you $9 bucks a quart for RoyalAmsoilMobil1 type stuff, and their [special] filters.
When plugged [4000miles] ALL- oil filters will go into bypass sending all the contaminants back into your lubrication system. If you drive on dusty roads do you think special filters are up to the task? The cubic foot per minute requirement of the engine for air is the same on dirt or pavement! change the filter and the Oil.
Another scenario: You only drive 25 miles to work round trip but idle in stop and go traffic for 25 minutes each way on a 98 degree day-That's like 100 miles a day heat viscosity breakdown to your oil, in terms of engine hours of operation!
The cream coloring you see on your oil filler cap is condensation[usually appearing most frequent in colder months]It stems from the engine only being operated for a few minutes[quick commute] and not getting to full operating temperature for 1/2 hour to evaporate the collected moisture which is absorbed through the intake tract and pcv system.
All oils turn brownish black from carbon buildup. Carbon is abrasive, and wears down metal. And acidic buildup from loss of oil additive package through normal use [3000 miles] pits metal parts inside your engine-Change your oil and filter.
- David J., Abilene, TX, US