This thing has spark, has fuel, and will not start. Codes pointed to PCM and to other items on the vehicle,

changed PCM, still will not start. Now I here all the other storys about this horror of it quiting, in many years of many models of this and Chrysler. and this one is also quit and will not start. Amazing, a engine that has fuel, has spark, and will not run. And all the way to the year 2011, from 1998 problems of all kinds, and likley beyond, and this dealer has not done a dam thing about it? ? ? ? ? They should have the pants sued off of them, in Trillions of Dollars and made to give back every last dam cent to the people that have owned them. Amazing, HAS FUEL< HAS SPARK, will not run. TIMING BELT IS IN PLACE, BRAN NEW, NEW THIS AND THATS, Everywhere And will not run. It just up and quit, and since then, it will not start. TIPM storys, bla bla bla. God knows all about you car dealers as well as you politicains, and if you do no think that is HIS CROSS in the northern Hemisphere in the sky, you have another thing coming Chyrsler

Update from Oct 15, 2020: Here is what was wrong with it. The 3.0 L in these types has a distributor that sets in the top of the motor. On the distributor, is a camshaft sensor, and at the bottom of the distributor, it has a gear on a shaft. Well, I bought the whole thing, and when I changed it, I noticed it would not drop in in the same place. So the old distributor, had slipped. The gear actually moves on the shaft because of a faulty pin that holds it together. So it worked, after installed, sitting for 3 plus years, Yes I found it. And if I may add, I had to change everything that the computer told me to do, which was all wrong the all of it. Never did the computer tell me, the distributor was faulty. Now, its doing it all again after driving it for another 2 years. Changed the distributor, but it makes no difference. My best guess to all of these peoples problems, is the computer is dependent on a reading from the crankshaft sensor camshaft sensor. The camshaft sensor seems sound the way its set up mounted. I changed the distributor again. But still, the auto shutdown is taking place. Computer kicks auto shutdown in gear when it cannot get a reading from either of these 2 sensors. Now, the sensors are made of plastic. crankshaft sensor, and are bolted to a metal of the engine In all reality, if the sensor is not in the exact right spot, from heat, and touches the knotches on the flywheel, it will kill the reading even if its for a split second. auto shutdown engages yes, sometimes all of it, other times, just the ignition coil and fuel injectors.Leaving the fuel pump running still. In any case, whenever it shuts down, one has to wait to restart the engine. Depending on the severity of hot cold temp, depends on when the sensor will not be in the wrong place from the change.... Now, I have to go thru it all again the shut down deal. This time, its not the distributor. But whenever it takes place, it is so annoying, because the sensors are in a place that cannot be reached easily at all. So to rest them, is always annoying. And no, the computer does not always read it in the dtc codes. This time, its telling me the catalytic converter is pooped. But that is not a shutdown feature, yet, i have to wait until the engine cools, to get it to go again before it will start. As far as to the rest of everyone's problem. Its all the same one. Computer does not recieve a signal it shuts down the vehicle through the relays and auto shut down procedure. As far as the catalytic converter, it cannot be the same problem. It only reads the O2 sensors to give a diagnose of the cat. And the computer does not change its fuel ratio operating, until the cat is at and reached 600 degrees F. Another words, it operates in open loop mode until that time that it changes to control of fuel air ratios. So, anyone can pull the plug on the cat, and the vehicle still will run.

This happened today but has been occurring for the past 2 years. While I was driving, the instrument panel went dark (gas gauge, heater indicator, rpm dropped to zero and all dash lights went off). Only the signal lights and radio operated. The engine was still running so I drove 20 km home, parked the vehicle, turned the engine off and then it wouldn't restart. I didn't stop for gas, which I needed.

For the past two years, I have been having this problem off and on. Sometimes if I leave the van just sitting for a day or two, it would then start with no problem and will run fine for a while (sometimes two weeks with no problem). I have had a mechanic check the van but he couldn't figure out what the problem is. On occasion if I remove and reconnect the negative battery terminal several times, the problem would disappear and the van will start and run. I will use it for a few weeks and then it happens all over again.

Many Dodge Grand Caravan (1997-2005) owners seem to have had this type of problem over the years and I think Chrysler should have recalled these vehicles and fixed this problem, since it seems to be clear that this fault is in the manufacture, not a wear-and-tear problem.

Tried replacing the cutoff relays in the fuse box (the three smallest fuses at the top- vertically- of the fuse box) but the problem only returned. It's madening, nothing seems to work, mechanics, fuse shuffling, praying. What is this mystery problem? A ghost sitting on my car!?

My mechanic seems to think its the computer (I heard this is 300.00 by now) the cars brain that manages various mechanical controls on the engine. He says it need s to be replaced.

If I replace that its like buying a home PC almost, what the Hell! If you just replace this part is it gonna be like replacing a light bulb, or a lost social security card.

My van keeps shutting down right after I start it with no warning . It doesn't happen every time at first iit would happpen every few months now it happens once or twice a week. Sometimes it takes an hour or let it sit overnite before it will start again. I've taken it to many mechanics and even to Pepboys several times and no one seems to know what is causing it they fixed lots of things hoping it's it but still have the same problem. I am a mom of 4 and when ever the van decides to do this we're stranded where ever we are. Does any one have a solution?

the vehicle will start 20 times then with no warning it will start then shut off in two seconds then not start again until the next day.

Update from Jun 26, 2010: still the same, have no cure for the problem yet

Update from Sep 10, 2010: i was still having the no start problem until i had to get rid of a perfectly good van if it started. tired of dealing with this mystery problem for too long. some say try a computer but if it didnt fix it i would be out even more money.