8.0

pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
No data
Average Mileage:
53,650 miles
Total Complaints:
2 complaints

Most Common Solutions:

  1. battery changed, new tsb for body ground (1 reports)
  2. not sure (1 reports)
2017 Dodge Durango electrical problems

electrical problem

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2017 Dodge Durango Owner Comments

problem #2

Dec 072021

Durango RT 5.7L V8

  • Automatic transmission
  • 70,000 miles

A D V E R T I S E M E N T S

Not having my remote start work when the weather drops below 40 degrees makes the feature completely worthless. This has been an issue that has gotten worse each winter since I purchased the vehicle in 2018. It was 9 degrees yesterday and my window went down on my 10 minute drive home from my daughter's after-school center 8 times! Not exactly inspiring confidence in the vehicle with my 6 year old in the middle seat constantly getting blasted with artic air. The dash lights go out, and my concern level for this leading to something much worse is getting to the point that I might have to get rid of the car. I replaced the battery last spring hoping it would fix the issue, it did not. I can't seem to find a fix anywhere!

- Kyle V., Minneapolis, US

problem #1

Oct 012019

Durango Citadel 5.8L V8

  • Automatic transmission
  • 37,282 miles

Wife's Dodge Shitadel wouldn't auto-start. Ok this has been an intermittent problem since 2019. I have paid for diagnostics at least twice. Finally brought it in when started getting ACC/FCW functionality faults, along with the fault we also noticed the Lane Change monitoring and Eco-Mode lights would flash off n on, the dash would go out (blank screen - so no speedo and no engine monitoring). Every so many times the passenger window would go down on its own during the same event and the radio would mute.

Brought it in two times before with radio flash upgrades (yeah I know!!! -> BS). So here we are about 1.5 yrs later and same sh*t. So this time we brought it to the dealer - supposedly bad battery. They said there was no parasitic drain on it. So I paid to replace it with a $320 AGM battery equivalent to what was in it. i installed it myself. Next morning same BS, so back to dealership. This time they stated because it wasn't their battery that the battery I purchased wasn't fully charged -> total BS. I checked with the local battery shop and they were willing to give a written legal document stating all their batteries are sold fully charged.

Being an electrical engineer I started using a multimeter and recording the battery and charging system voltage. At night 12.8V DC (Ignition switch Off). In the morning 10.7V DC (Ignition switch Off). Charged the battery - the next day 12.8V the following morning same thing 10.8V DC. So I started checking the car when first started. Full charging alternator should be 14.4-14.6V steady while trying to charge battery and run electrical loads. The voltage while charging was swinging all over the place. 12.2 ~14.7V DC. I brought it back to the dealer. I asked if they checked the alternator and voltage regulator (new Chrysler vehicles charging and voltage regulation is controlled from the PCM). They stated it was all checked and was "A" OK.

They had it for 2 days and miraculously during that time a TSB (supposedly) came in about a body ground directly under the ground wire connection to the battery where the nut was cross threaded during initial build not holding the ground connection properly. They broke the stud off when removing the nut. They replaced the stud, reconnected the ground wire, tested the vehicle overnight and returned it to us. So we will see if the saga continues or whether they really found the root cause after all. It did act like a bad ground.

Just not sure why my wife bought a damn Chrysler when her husband is a Ford engineer. Extended family works at Chrysler so she got employee pricing same as I get from Ford. Ford just didn't have a vehicle she liked. Now we got this damn Shitadel and I'm not impressed.

- bigmack, Windsor, ON, Canada

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