I bought this car after my other vehicle was in an accident. I believe the dealer knew of the existing issue but failed to inform me, but I signed an as-is contract. I would be driving in warm to hot weather and the engine would just shut off randomly, usually while I had my kid with me. I even once had 2 police officers help push us to a safe area to cool down. I took the Durango to 3 different mechanics before they decided it was an electrical issue and sent me to a specialist. It was determined I needed a new pcm (computer.) They no longer make these parts, by the way, they are all re-fabs. I had to have the dang thing replaced 3 times! 3!! The second one they sent me had holes drilled into and filled with silicone then put back together, that one worked the least. After a bit of yelling, I got one that worked.

Currently this Durango is out of commission because it needs a new radiator and the abs motor is stuck on all the time.

Why isn't engine turning off a recall problem? Imagine driving down the highway and your car turns off. What if there isn't a safe place to pull over, with no power steering I might add?

This problem started occurring after we replaced the PCM a year earlier. We drove the truck to AZ and back to MO with no problem in July 2013. Then in March 2014 the shutting down problem started. I was running 60 MPH and lost all power. I managed to get the SUV safely to the side of the road. The NO BUS message was flashing where the mileage should have been. I waited about 5 minutes and I was able to restart the truck and drive it home.

This is now happening two to three times a day, each time I take it out. I now say when I get stranded on the side of the road, as opposed to IF. I have taken it to the local Dodge Dealership and they say there is nothing they can do because it is not throwing a code. I am about to undertake replacing all of the censors and replacing the PCM again.

This is so dangerous, I refuse to take my children anywhere in the "family vehicle" for fear there may be a deadly accident.

OK. Another rant from me about the Durango. SO-went from Colorado to Wyoming to pick up the kiddo for Christmas break-roughly about a 350 trip each way. Made it there like a champ. After stopping to fill up the tank for the remainder of the trip (100 miles coming back) 15 miles outside of Rawlins the thing DIES while we are driving. It shuddered a bit violently on the way to the median. Started it up and it drove for 2 miles doing 75mph. DIED AGAIN! Seriously it is FREEZING in Wyoming this time of year. Semi trucks were driving by close and we were almost hit 4 times! Had enough cell service to text (could not call) mom for help-who called state patrol to find us. About 2 hours later-Tow BACK was 160.00, tank was exactly 1/4 full before filling it up. Paid $5 (overkill) for starting fluid to test fuel delivery issue at a truck stop, started right up. Needless to say since this thing is so special you cant tow it on anything but a flatbed it is STILL THERE!! I have read reports of this and will test a few things once we get the evil thing home. IF we get it home! AGAIN this POS has put me out of major amounts of money-time-and cost me time with family for the Holidays!! I should have known better-I should have driven the Honda-the HONDA WOULD HAVE MADE IT!! Seriously come spring tax time I'm selling this POS and never looking back at Dodge again. EVER. Between the cooling-sludge-rocker tick and now this crap in LESS THAN 6 MONTHS OF OWNING IT I won't make the mistake again. I will warn people about these things-I will post consumer reports all over the place. DON'T BUY A DODGE!! If it doesn't kill you money wise it just might when it dies on an interstate highway or any other road for that matter. Protect your finances and your children don't buy a Dodge!!

This is not a FIX, but it appears to be a solution to the issue of the computer in my Durango shutting down. I read everything on the web about how to fix this issue, and it was all the same, throw parts at it until it worked. That didn't seem to work either as most complaints I read said the same thing.. anyway...

I read one compliant that indicated it could be a overheating problem with the computer. Since I was already going to buy a replacement, I didn't figure there was any harm testing this theory. I removed the computer from the truck, took it inside my house, placed it in the freezer for about 10 minutes to quickly cool it down. Outside air temperature was about 99 degrees F that day. As it was cooling down, I checked the temp for the dates when it started acting up, and found that every single day the temp was 95 degrees or higher.

After 10 minutes, took the computer out of the freeze and plug it back in the truck, but didn't re-mount it to the wheel well. Turned the key and bingo.... running truck, no code, no bad lights on the dash, no "no bus" on the odometer.

Left the truck running in the direct heat... shut down again in 30 minutes. This time, took a cold wet rag and draped it over the back of the computer, waited 5 minutes and truck fired up again...

Before I reinstalled it, I drilled large holes in the mounting plate on the wheel well with a hole saw held at an angle. I didn't drill all the way thru, I left a little bit of metal on one edge of the hole and then bent the middle pieces back (toward the outside of the truck). They act like little air scoops now. I also added several washers and new bolts and shimmed the computer away from the mounting plate by about 3/8 inches. Now it can get air behind the computer better.

Now I understand this don't fix the sitting in heavy traffic shutdown problems, and if the truck is in the driveway in the direct 95+ degree sun, it's still possible that it can shut down.. This isn't a "fix", but it does get me back running quickly.

One more modification I'm thinking of making is to manufacture a "scoop" of some sort and mount that on the A/C line nearby. There's a bulge in the line just behind the air box that lines up with the computer. It might be possible to catch enough cold air off that bulge and direct it to the computer.

One last thing I might try if the A/C trick doesn't work is to mount a cooling fan (link in a desktop computer) and wire it for 12 volt. Put it on the ignition so that it runs while the switch is on. I'll post back if any of these things fixes the problem for good... but DODGE should fix this or get the !@#$ sued out of them if they don't.

Last thing: The guys at AllComputerResources.com are a CLASS ACT!!!! I had just ordered my new computer from them, and when I discovered this cooling trick, I sent Tony an email asking if it were possible to cancel my order. The very next day I had a refund to my PayPal account... If you end up needing a computer for your truck ... ALL COMPUTER RESOURCES gets two thumbs up from me :-)

2000 Dodge durango 5.9 R/T i had this car for about 8 months nearly got into 4 accidents while driving and engine shuts off at an intersection almost hit a guard rail with my grandma in the car!! I tried finding a solution to this problem, so far i heard about replacing a new PCM/ECU computer from changing sensors etc. its a great suv,its a nerve wreck driving this vehicle. i mean its a great car and all i don't feel safe driving it. i would want to buy another car that's safe to drive and want to sell it but i don't want to put someone else's life on the line unless there's a solution to fixing it!! please someone help me find a solution to this I'm losing hope would be much appreciated thanks!!!

Hey guys, I finally dug deep enough to find this out… I haven’t even bought my Durango that has this problem yet, but I am this week. Nonetheless I have done nothing but research because I myself have a 1.5yr old son and family and want this to be safe. What I found is the TSB (technical service bulletin) on the issue directly from dodge. A TSB is given to a technician looking to find a soluion to a problem that is very hard to find- thus calling Technical Assistance to have an engineer guide them through it. I hope this will help you all as it has helped me already. These sensors cost roughly $40 each… they are different locations that MOST men and women could just change themselves with the exception of the distributor pickup or “cam sensor” in these vehicles. It’s under the distributor cap. If you do test them with a generic multimeter first and get good readings from all of them, it does not mean they will not lose connectivity when hitting a bump, not to mention the amount of miles we all have on our vehicles it’s not a bad idea to dump the $150ish in parts to fix the issue. Feel free to email if I can help anymore and I’ll be sure to come update my progress for those weary of spending more $ on it.

Vehicles: 1998 - 1999 Dodge Durango 3.9L 2000 - 2001 Dodge Durango 4.7L 1998 - 2000 Dodge Durango 5.2L 1998 - 2001 Dodge Durango 5.9L

Symptom: Engine will not start/Intermittently shuts down. Gauges are inoperative. nO buS message displayed on odometer.

System: Body/Chassis Electrical, Emissions/PCM/Fuel, Engine Electrical

Codes: N/A

Problem 1 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor.

Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the CKP sensor.

Problem 2 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor.

Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the CMP sensor.

Problem 3 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.

Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire (5v power supply) at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the MAP sensor. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the MAP sensor.

Problem 4 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire (5 volt power supply) at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the TPS. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, replace the TPS.

Problem 5 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted wire.

Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the throttle position sensor (TPS) or manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug all sensors that are connected to the 5v power supply and disconnect the PCM. Check if either 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground using a DVOM. If the circuit is found to be shorted to ground, repair the wire and the cause of the short.

Problem 6 of 6: The 5v power supply from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is shorted due to a shorted Governor Pressure Sensor.

Test & Fix: If the 5v power supply circuit is shorted to ground, the CCD bus is unable to transmit messages and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) appears to be "dead". The PCM is not damaged when the 5v power supply gets shorted to ground, but does need to be reset by turning the key off for 10 second after the short is removed. Using a DVOM or labscope, measure the voltage on the 5v reference wire at the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. If 5v is not present, unplug the large round connector on the driver's side of the transmission. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Turn the key on and measure the voltage on the 5v power supply circuit. If the voltage is now 5v, remove the transmission pan and check for shorted wiring inside the transmission. If the wiring is OK, replace the Governor Pressure Sensor.

We have put a new distributor,rotory button,distributor cap,cam shaft sensor,crank shaft sensor,ignition coil,fuel pump and sending unit,fuel fiilter, fuel pump relay and yet nothing has help. It continues to shut off with no warning and says "no bus". When we call part stores and dealerships they say it should not say that. My wife and youngest grandson was going up the freeway in the middle lane and it shut off but luckily she got it to the side of the road. This continues to happen no matter what we change somebody needs to do something before there is a serious accident consisting of a fatality. We have sunk $700.00 into this and still having problems.

My 2000 Dodge Durango with the 5.9 V8 Magnum shuts down while driving. This is very dangerous I have replaced everything crankshaft position sensor...temp sensor...thermostat...distributor cap...spark plugs...spark plug wires...even replaced the ecm computer...got it from auto computer exchange and it was junk and they would not take it back and make it right with me...it would not let my Durango start up. I still have the original ecm for it and it still dies when its hot out but I open the hood and unplug it for about 10 seconds and plug it back in and it starts right back up. I too like many other of you Dodge Durango owners agree Dodge should fix this problem and I know they act like nothing is wrong...but this is crap they are responsible for this and should be held at fault the problem is they know this and don't want to lose all that money its going to cost them to move the ecm or to just simply fix the problem that they caused. I just hope nobody has to die from this before they take it seriously. I think they should be sued for everything they got plus not be allowed to make anymore dangerous automobiles!