This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I own a 2000 Dodge Durango slt 4WD. The vehicle shuts off when the outdoor temperature exceeds 75 degrees. I have traced the issue to the PCM of the vehicle, which becomes so hot that you cannot touch its metal housing with your hands. The PCM is located in the engine compartment, bolted above the passenger front tire. The PCM has three wire harnesses attached to it, and once the PCM heats up, a "kill" switch is triggered and the vehicle shuts off. Shortly after, the odometer reads "no bus" and the only way to reset the PCM is to leave the ignition key in the "on" position, pull the PCM wire harness that is closest to the passenger compartment, re-seat the harness and hope that you hear a "clicking" sound. The vehicle normally re-starts, but will again turn off at intermittent times. On a typical day of 80*, I will perform this process several times in my 22-mile round-trip to work. Many people have been experiencing the same events, thus causing nightmares for those that do not have a safe pull-off from roads, or those that are in intersections or near crosswalks, since the engine shuts down sporadically.
For the past 8 months my 2000 Dodge Durango will just shut off while I am driving. I have replaced the jump start, the coil, belts, air condition, pulleys, spark plugs. It has had a complete tune up and been to the mechanic at least 5 times. Nothing shows up on the codes, it will only show the word nobus in the odometer and it takes from 10 minutes to one hour before it will restart. This has become very dangerous as there is no advance warning. You lose all power and it just stops running.
I own a 2000 Dodge Durango, and it often will just shut down while I'm driving. I have owned it since October 2008, and this has happened 12 or 13 times. I receive a "no bus" signal on my odometer display. I have replaced battery terminals, and a battery. It seems to happen far more often in hot weather. It sometimes happens when I'm driving 65 mph on the freeway, and then the car shuts down and I lose power steering (very dangerous), brakes (even more dangerous) and the accelerator doesn't function.
Our door lock system is not working properly. It started with a loud noise when we hit the unlock button. Now, when you hit the unlock from the driver's side door, both passenger doors will not unlock and have to be done so manually. If you use the key on the passenger door, it will unlock all of the doors. Now the drivers side door lock does not lock when hitting door lock, but car alarm is still activated.
- Fort Campbell, KY, USA
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V8-287 4.7L Durango stalls without warning. Doesn't matter if I am on the freeway or in city traffic. Nothing specific that I can relate to the cause. Immediately lose power steering. Electrical seems to continue working. Car will start back up fine after 5 to 15 minutes of sitting. Happens in hot and cold weather, day or night. Can go for weeks without stalling and then stall several times in a few days. Yellow check engine light comes on, which the manual tells me is not an immediate issue. Extremely unsafe and I fear for my family's safety. Looked at Dodge Durango maintenance and repair forum on internet and found pages and pages of similar complaints. (townhall-talk.edmunds.com and www.topix.com/forum/autos/Dodge-Durango) through these websites it doesn't look like anyone can figure it out, including the dealerships, although the problem seems to be widespread.
A few weeks ago, it started with the door ajar light, and gate open light coming on when nothing was open. A lot of ice build up (bad seals) made the driver door difficult to latch. A week ago we were driving and all of the locks started unlocking repeatedly. Now we can't even lock our truck, it unlocks itself. It does this whether the vehicle is on or not. It also turns on the interior lights. The switches do not work to lock the doors. We have to remove the fuse (which also controls the wipers, bad idea) to stop the locks from unlocking. Also, it arms the security system ( I think)and makes it so the truck shuts off on it's own. I feel extremely unsafe now that I my vehicle unlocks itself and shuts off. Last night we came out to the parking lot to discover it unlocked and the interior lights were turning on and off the whole time. I have to take my 3 year old in this vehicle. I know that this is a problem with a lot of Durangos and Chrysler better do something about it now! this is a huge safety issue, and I can't believe it's being ignored.
We have a 2000 Dodge Durango that needs a new power box/harness. My mechanic tried to get a replacement part but was told by the parts manufacturer that due to known problems with the Durango power box/harness that the part was redesigned by daimler Chrysler. My mechanic told me that the problem with the power box harness shorted the wiring and that I was lucky that it did not ignite while I was driving. The cost to cover the repairs is over $4,000. I believe that this problem should have been recalled by daimler Chrysler and that I should not be responsible for the cost of repairs for something that could have caused grave danger to me and my family.
An automatic door lock of our 2000 Dodge Durango does not unlock one door when the front control is activated. The lock has to be manually lifted. If the front control is not used to unlock the whole car, the one defective lock cannot be unlocked manually. This is a safety hazard. This is the second activator that has gone bad on this car. The first was the front driver's side and the current defective lock is the right rear passenger door.
The contact bought a used truck 10 months ago. She had a lot of problems with the vehicle. On 8-15-05 she hit some speed bumps going over a bridge and she could not steer the vehicle. A mechanic told her the left leaf spring broke. She brought it back to the dealer because of electrical problems, and the whole front end squeaked. She went to a Dodge dealer, and they told her there was a recall on the ball joints. She did have the ball joints fixed. While doing research the consuemr noticed that there have been numerous recalls for the 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9L engine. The cosnuerm has experienced problem with her vehicle similar to those recalled on the 5.9L engine Durango. The consumer has experienced problem like the suspension making noise, antitheft system cannot be shut off once activated. Front A/C fan makes noise, the driver's side power seat seat rattles/clicks in upright position, front axle noise during acceleration, the battery died three times, rear leaf springs made noise. Front headlight didn't work due to a corroded 12V wire to the right of the headlight. The brakes, rotos, belt and tensioner had to be replaced.
2000 Dodge Durango front suspension upper ball joints failed. The power door locks operated on their own without activation, at times the driver door lock would not operate at the same time as the passenger side the power windows will intermittently roll up. The thermostat was replaced twice.
While driving at 15 mph the passenger's electrical side door would lock. When the vehicle was parked and the key was inserted into the door the lock failed to open. The driver used the remote control to unlock the doors. The driver had taken the vehicle to the dealer numerous times for lock problems but the mechanic was unable to duplicate or resolve the problem. The drivers side door was repaired for the same problem. The door actuator was replaced. Currently the right rear door lock was broken and Dodge would not replace under warranty. The doors could not be unlocked manually.
I bought a new Dodge Durango in 2000 and despite taking good care of it I have had several problems. The first problem were the safty belts coming unclipped for no reason and then sticking open so they couldn't be reclipped. The middle seats the middle seats to not always latch completely down after being folded up, the headlight switch in the steering column has a short in it causing the headlights to go out while I am driving at night. I had to bring it in because the engine light came on and was informed that there was a defective part that the dealership had been notified in a bulletin. They replaced the part, but charged me for the labor. The latest problem is a power stearing problem that the dealership informed me that because of a leaky seal I have to replace the entire rack and pinion for almost $900. I feel that this is absurd on a car that is only 3 years old.
Transmission has failed two weeks after purchase date. The vehicles transmission went in reverse while the gear was in drive. The vehicle was towed to the dealer. The dealer refused to repair the vehicle free of charge because of the vehicles mileage, 37828. The consumer was under the assumption that the warranty was valid. The warranty was effective from 2002 (3 years/36K miles). The vehicle experienced multiple electrical problem. The indicator lights stopped working, hazard lights stopped working, the right rear passenger door lock failed and the left passenger window motor failed. The vehicle also experienced steering problems.
Right rear passenger door locked from inside and outside, a few weeks later, the problem went away, but the window will not roll down, and ever since then, when the vehicle exceeds 15 mph, a loud buzzing (doors locking)surprises guest passengers.
The vehicle caught on fire due to an oil leak onto the exhaust cross-over pipe, however the first set of experts suggest an electrical fire, and now a second set of experts are examining the vehicle. Claim# 30-F037-271.
The vehicle caught on fire due to an oil leak onto the exhaust cross-over pipe, however the first set of experts suggest an electrical fire, and now a second set of experts are examining the vehicle. Claim# 30-F037-271.
When driving between 60-70mph vehicle would vibrate. Rear window was not sealed properly after replacement due to a scratch. Driver's window replaced due to regulator dragging. Electrical wires for air conditioner were pinched and failed to work. Vehicle sounds to have an electrical problem, windows have failed, door regulators failed, battery failed, and while driving the RPM, odometer, and trip meter all went to zero. Consumer had to replace Goodyear tires, no other tire information provided.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Stuarts Draft, VA, USA