8.4
pretty bad
electrical problem
the first time this happened, the dashboard would go up & down(all gauges), then the vehicle would shut off. would not start again. jump started it to get home. thought it was an alternator problem so i got a new alternator, put it in, worked for awhile. then back to the same problem. thought that the battery being charged so much might be the problem, so i got a new battery. worked great until the battery ran out of juice. tested the alternator, twice, @ a car parts store. checked out good. Not sure what to check now, its relay from the alternator to the battery is not communicating properly.
- Brent B., Ogdensburg, NY, US
it sucked, it still sucks i tried the wireharness deal hope it works i just did it so we will see
- Brian A., Manistee, MI, US
The battery goes completely dead after the Durango is turned off in about 4 hours. I bought a new battery but experienced no change. I hooked an electrical tester between the ground post and ground cable and the light is on. I pulled the fuse for the parking and interior lights and the light dimmed and started blinking fast. I can here a faint ticking under the dash, but am not sure exactly where. The ticking matches the light blinking. I've traced all the wires I can find, but I'm not an electrician.
I'm mad enough to eat fried chicken! Anybody got any ideas short of calling the marines and let them use it for target practice?
Update from Apr 26, 2009: I removed the inside panel on rear hatch. Unplugged the rear wiper and the problem was solved. Afterward, I did some asking around and found this to be a problem on Durangos. One more thing. Tape the plug with some electrical tape to the door or it will rattle.
- Patrick R., Evart, MI, US
My mechanic couldn't find the problem and I don't want to spend big bucks going to a dealer with gas being so high and now my stereo isn't gettin any power. Husband only knows that it's not the radio, it's the power source or lack of.
- Kristin A., West Boylston, MA, US
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
The drivers door automatic lock did not work so I locked the door manually. A standard diagnostic test did not find the problem. An extensive test (cost $100) found the problem. When locking the door manually, there is a constant 20 amp draw on the battery so every few days, the car would not start. Definitely a pain in the ass.
It is currently being fixed, I hope.
Update from May 28, 2016: Well, the door lock was fixed and there is still a battery draw. Now they say its the computer. Ugh! I told them about the rear window wiper that I saw on another complaint post. We'll see.
- Leslie F., Riverside, CA, US